Just finished breakin on mine. It did not flame once idling 3 tanks, I just turned both needles 1/2 turn or so out and it fired right up. Already making good power.. the 2013 sounds awesome. I'm racing at the Farm tomorrow and will get back with some run times. I've been running JX Ninjas which are great but never could go more than 7:30.

Does the b5 have any coating on the pin like the os speed and ninja motors? I currently have a vspec that is being reconditioned by raya and a new rod on order -- everything on that motor is in great shape except for the crank pin that is ovaling (but still less than .0015) and crank pin longevity has recently been something I've become quite interested in. Has anyone, werks especially, checked how many gallons it takes to get the crank pin out of round on these?

I will likely need a new motor next season and I'm currently torn between the b5, the nova +4, and the new ninja jx21.

No it's not, the coated crank is a nice addition.. they should all have it! You'll replace the motor before the crank.

If I can charge you an extra $139.99 (83% more than what the B5 sells for) to make it equal in price to the Ninja or $339 more (169% more than what the B5 sells for) to make it equal in price to the Speed then I would be more than happy to provide you with a coated crank lol!

All joking aside I can not remember the last time that I have heard of anyone replacing one of our cranks because the pin was out of round. Probably because the Italians got the hardening of the crank pin and their metallurgy in general down pat. I know from our team stock of engines that we cycle through that we've continually rebuilt engines (as in replacing p/s, rods and bearings) using the same crank and case for 5 or 6 rebuilds before that I know of. At roughly 8-9 gallons on a p/s this equates to roughly 50 gallons on a crank. For the normal person, you are replacing the engine way, way before it gets to that point. Heck for the price, if crank pin wear is your major concern just pick up 2 B5's. For $60 more than a Ninja you get 1 complete engine, a spare crank and the rest of a 2nd engine for free lol! For the price of a single OS Speed you can buy 2 B5's and have $109 left over!

Please understand that we are more than capable of making an engine with every single bell and whistle possible on and in it. The B5 has been designed from the ground up to be an incredibly affordable, high performance racing engine that hits a street price under $200. In order to do that we did not skimp on quality of materials, we did not skimp on machine work (i.e. cuts on sleeves, crank, case, knife edged rod etc. that all add performance), we did not skimp on the quality of the cooling head or taking the time to lighten it (which lower CG and again aids performance), we did not skimp on the quality of the carb or any other thing that a normal racing engine would have that would in any way affect performance. Coating, ceramic bearings etc. etc. while they are all nice, are not necessary to have a good, high performance engine. Once you run this engine, the last thing that you will be thinking about is if the crank has a coating on it lol!

Regards,

Ron Hopkins
Werks Racing

Awesome! I always thought it was strange that the v-spec's oval their pin and needed a coating (speed motor).

looks like usps was late. maybe ill have it tomorrow:batman:

Just ordered mine :D

Amain only has a few left, if you want one you better jump on it.

cant wait to run this engine out at my track, We have alot of guys that are new and they have all these 300 dollar motors that I spank them with my $130 Nova 3 port....this motor should really blow thier mind as I loved the speed of my B7...just hated that price for club racing and practice....B5 for $2 Bills, SWE:nod:ET!!

Hey guys quick question for ya. Whensetting the gap for the idle should I remove the carb reducer seems how it partialy blocks the opening or should it be set with it in?

When setting the gap you have to pull off the filter and I'll pull out the carb restricter just to see inside and I believe that the way you set it. I could be wrong. Ron has a very detailed break in procedure on page 3. Can't miss it. Maybe it says there. I haven't totally read it all the way through.

On my V-spec Id set the idle at 1 1/4 turn in from closed without the restricter and pop it back in after... But thats the o.s. not sure what Ron's take is on all that.

Hey guys, when you set the idle gap you want to remove the air filter and leave whatever carburetor reducer that you are using in. It is not important that it is set perfectly to 1mm or 1.5mm (it can be .75mm, 1.25mm or what ever). The only reason that I recommend 1-1.5mm is because it is approximately the thickness of a credit card so it is easy for people to visualize how much of a space that is.

The primary reason for me having you guys check that is because one of the most common issues related to carb tuning that I run across especially with newer tuners is that they set the air gap (opening with the idle stop screw) way too small. It's not unusual to find guys complaining about idle problems and their engines tune being all over the board only to find that they have the air gap set open only like the thickness of a piece of paper! When this is done obviously very little air can flow through that super small gap, which means very little fuel is needed (remember it's all about the air/fuel ratio). This means that with very little air the difference between too little fuel (too lean) and too much fuel (too rich) becomes very small. This quite often leads to people chasing a tune, running the bottom way too lean, erratic idle etc. etc.

The easy way to avoid this, just make sure that you set an idle gap that allows a sufficient amount of air into the engine so that you can easily set your needles. Hence my recommendation of approximately 1-1.5mm or roughly the thickness of a credit card (again this does not have to be precise, just a ballpark). This is just a simple way to help avoid having your bottom end set too lean. Hope this helps explain things!

Regards,

Ron Hopkins
Werks Racing

Thanks guys. Time to start the break in:D

Engine just got here. Time to drop her in and break in.

Hey Ron

I used to run the 3 and 7 port werks/collari's with the gold head... loved 'em. my money sux right now, and i am buying a new engine this month...this week really. i WAS gonna get a 3 port novarossi... never have had a brand new .21 for the buggy, always used 2nd hand engines. but your price point is unbelievable! i'll be getting a b5... a lot of questions about pipes... my 2013 is BEAT. anyone have any luck wi/ a 2050? Thanks in advance

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A little dark but there's the new set up. Heading to revelation raceway tomorrow to tinker