You will get better fuel millage as the engine gets closer to being full broken in. I would figure on about a gallon to get one of these fully run in just an fyi. Run times are also highly dependent on pipe choice and driving style and being upfront I have never seen nor ran a 0403 pipe so I'm not sure what those do lol! Just curious what engine were you running before and how do you think that the B5 compares to it?

Regards,

Ron Hopkins
Werks Racing

JASracer, thanks I'm sure that you'll enjoy it!

Smb17, I'll take a look at your PM's and get back to you today.

Idawg, thanks for the feedback on your first outing with the motor! Run time will definately increase as you get more time on it. Keep in mind guys that most of you have just basically broken in the engine and probably have less than a 1/2 gallon on it so far! Having said that though, it's great to hear that you are already getting roughly a minute more run time than a Ninja! The Farm is a cool track but it also burns up some fuel because of the size of it lol!

Landscaper, if you look up a post Idawg touched on the run time comparison between the two. If possible Idawg would you mind letting us know what your feelings were as far as performance?

lockmouth, thanks for the feedback! Looking at the set up you guys are being smart. Starting with a softer clutch set up will help with run time also as you get more fuel through the engine do not be afraid to start leaning it out. We usually run in the 230 to 240 range at race tune with a fully broken in engine. So you still have some power and run time to go lol!

1fastguy, it sucks when you get stuffed lol! Congrats though on getting the car back together and coming back to take 6th! Regarding the tuning on our engines in general we also used to always run the bottom on the fat side. This made it easier to maintain a lower operating temperature, made the engine less sensitive to tune and also softened the bottom a bit to make the engine easier to drive (less aggressive on the bottom). What we found is that this is a compromise, and the thing that is getting compromised is the run time because you are actually de-tuning the engine by running it rich.

What we have recently started to do was always run the engine at it's optimum state of tune and then adjust the bottom end or should I say feel of the engine by playing with the clutch set up to change how the power is put to the ground if that makes sense. At the current level of racing, run time is paramount (even though you mentioned that you were one of or the only one able to pit at 10 min) and the only way to maximize run time is by making sure that you are always running your engine at an ideal state of tune. Keep that constant and then alter the clutch and/or pipe set up to adjust the power delivery to your driving style/track conditions. It's a little bit of a different mentality and more along the lines of what we do with 1/8th on-road but the bar is constantly being raised in off-road racing and to run at the upper levels you got to do what you got to do to be competitive nowadays. Meaning, it takes more work lol!

Regards,

Ron Hopkins
Werks Racing

My initial thoughts on the B5/2013 vs Ninja/2042
The B5's throttle response is more like an electric motor. Consistent power, sometimes the ninja needed a little more throttle input to clear the same jump, that's hard to chase every lap.. Top end is close. Hands down better mileage, Great price. Not sure if there's any support for the Ninja? I'll know more when I hit the gallon mark.
That said, I'm curious how the Ninja would run with a 2013?

Thanks Ron for building this motor.

couldn't stop myself... just ordered one from amain. nitro pit here i come:batman:

Thanks Ron!
 

All I can say is if there is no other reason to buy a Werks motor, it is the product support. I want to say thanks Ron for taking care of me on my crank issue with the B7pro. I know of no other engine manufacturer that would send you a new 150.00 crank for free. I can't say enough about your commitment to the industry and those that use your products. Thank you.
Brian

RON---- I usually run RB motors outdoors like S7 and ws7. But i would have to say the b5 to me seems to run just as good but with better fuel mileage than the s7 just my personal opinion. About the run time we run 6 min qualifiers and i had about 1/3 of a tank left. The track is a pretty big-- hard packed but not blue groove with a light dust on the outside I was TQ with 12 laps at 6:09. I run a jammin x2 with hobao aluminum clutch shoes and im going to try out some other pipes and go up to a 18 tooth clutch bell instead of the 17 because that motor just accelerated out of the corners like no other motor ive had. If you have any suggestions about clutch shoes i would like to hear what might work better. Im really diggin the B5 though great motor no problems at all yesterday I would buy another one without hesitation!!!!

RAZATHORN--- I have the low end flush and when i come in for a temp check it idles about 2-3 seconds before it drops down

Well I've gotten through about a third of a gallon so far and I have to say even running a little fat to keep it at 200 - 220 this thing seems to rip pretty well. I will add though that at my elevation 1000 ft and at aboout 70 degrees f. I did have to richen it up quite a bot from flush I'm not quite sure how much but probably a full turn out from flush on both needles.

During the first few tanks I had the gap at about 1.5 and I couldn't get the idle to come down to my liking no matter how far out I turned the low speed so I richened up the high speed a little and wallah she droppes right down after a few seconds after a high speed run. I also ran the 97t at first then the os plug and it seemed like my idle dropped even more and it was running a little fatter with the os.

Ok, now we have some results on truggy also.

One of our team drivers raced last weekend with B5 on his Jammin X2 CRT.

He managed to get over 14 minutes per tank. On 14min 42sec he ran out of fuel to be exact.

Clutch: Jammin red shoes, black springs
Pipe: Werks 2013
Fuel Werks 25%
Track: Smooth, Open with two long straights.

It seems that for the next season we already have a truggy engine. lol

What is this a symptom of?

From a stand still I can rocket off the line, then there's a huge bog for the mid range, and top seems to be ok.

tough to call but it sounds like maybe bottom a hair lean, I like to set my top to be good then just set my bottom for throttle response

That's what I attemeted to do:ha: I'll just wait till the weekend and have one of the more experenced guys show me whats up. I still have good smoke/temps just a wierd bog in the middle.

that might be best...
only recommendation i can make is to set low end flush go out on the straightaway and adjust low end to be nice smooth and crisp then maybe readjust the top, it usually how I get mine ballparked..
it sounds like it just might be a hair mixed up like top a little fat and bottom a little lean, but like I said its tough to call

What are the out of the box settings? I'd like to know so I can start from there If I have issues. I know the idle is supposed to be at 1-1.5 mm.

Check out post #39 in this thread on page 3. Werks (Ron) gives a good example of break-in and how to get to starting carb settings.