Ron

The motor runs fine about halfway thru a qualifier and then it starts to go lean. Im just guessing its front bearing since i changed fuel lines checked fuel filters new glow plug went back to break in settings and started tuning again. Had the low end needle about 2 turns out from flush and still getting a super high idle for about 3 seconds and then idles down. There was no fuel or anything under the front bearing but from past experiences the bearing would slightly leak when blowing in the fuel tubing on the high speed needle.

I had the same problem last week, erratic idle/tune. It was the HSN assembly, don't be afraid to crank down on it when tightening.. think I'll coat mine with some sealant.

Also helps to put an extra turn on the head screws and glow plug with the motor hot.

I need a motor before the weekend. Already have one on my HB D8T and need one for my buggy.

Ron, ETA? I really don't want to buy the Killer 9, but need one quick. ;)

Mo- I see you're signed up for SIC. I can get you some fuel from around here and bring it to you at the race. Good deal going on it too.

We are staying at Days Inn if you haven't booked yet. See ya there.

Hey Team_Orange. I'm going to think that the issue that you are experiencing is something other than the front bearing. As I've mentioned over the years we have seen very, very few problems with the front bearing in fact we have had very few problems with bearings in general (thankfully we missed out on the bad bearings that seemed to be going around a while back that affected Novarossi and OS). If you had a leaking front bearing I would expect the problem that you are experiencing to happen all the time not just mid way through a qualifier, after all how would the bearing know how long you have been running before it decided to start sucking air like clockwork half way through your qualifier lol!

A couple thoughts on this. If it always seems to go lean right around the same time try swapping tanks. It is possible that there is a pin hole in your tank that only gets uncovered when the fuel gets below a certain level. This is something that happens quite often. Second, try what Idawg mentioned (thank you!). Double check that everything is tight i.e. the HS needle housing, head button and plug. Third, take a look at the temps that you are running, is it possible that you just might be starting out a little lean on the needles when you start off? When you first toss your car on the track it should be a little rich for the first lap or so prior to the case and chassis being heat saturated, these should warm up (along with your engine) then heat once they have heat saturated temperatures should stabilize. This normally takes a couple of laps to happen. So try richening your needles an hour or two and run the car to see if this improves the situation any. If so this is a good indication that the motor was simply set a little lean to start with.

Alternatively you can go back a page or two to the long post that I made for the guy about how to get your carb tune/engine in the ballpark quickly and give this a shot. Try all of these and if you still think that your front bearing is the issue let me know and I'll send you another one.

Regards,

Ron

san. , you're a brave man trying out the first made in Taiwan engine that they have done lol! B5's have shipped from Italy already and will be here mid next week and should be in stock at A-main before the end of next week. Unfortunately I'm not going to be able to get you one before this weekend though!

Regards,

Ron

Bought a used GRP from a friend for this weekend. Still purchasing another B5. Clocked a few 35sec laps at local track only 0.40sec slower than the winner for that A Main race. Yes I know, consistency wins, but the motor is worthy for sure!

No doubt about that, Kortz just took second with it at the JBRL last week against some stiff competition like Cavalieri, Lutz, King, Pavidas etc. etc. So the motor can do it and if your turning laps within 1/2 sec of the guy that won the race then you obviously have the ability to drive. Here's a tip, back off a bit and run at 8/10's instead of 10/10's. You'll be surprised but going a little bit slower actually ends up making you go faster as you'll make less errors. This will help a lot with the consistency and when you're turning solid, consistent laps you'll find your self getting comfortable and getting into "the zone" and will start going even faster!

Let me know what your thoughts are about the difference between the B5 and the GRP mill once you get a chance to run it. Just curious as there are not a lot of those around any more.

Regards,

Ron

Thanks ron i guess i didnt stop and think about the situation well enough. Will try tune up again. I started to retune last sunday but we got rained out after 3rd qualifier. Still loving the motor and will be going in the hyper 9 in about a week :nod:

I was just reading neobuggy and seen mo denton tq'd buggy last weekend so congrats to mo. Next time youll get em ;)

yeah, Mo had it wrapped up untill the skidplate problem...

The Werks team up here has been good. Ohio Pro-Series had 2nd with Mo and I was in 3rd after qualifying behind Shane Racer with his reedy... So they are proving themselves here against the other engines...lol

-DC-

Just ran at rev.. went a lot better this time. Like the engine. My tuning skills are a little weak! The engine is running at 200 but when I get on it hard it will skip... im not sure if it's lean on top or rich.... From where I was on the stand I couldent really see the smoke. any ideas? It didn't have a lean bog when I let off... Thats why I keepts going lean.. The idle is still all over the place. I'm going to clean everything up and seal everything this time around... again my tuning skills are weak... but the idle is set it around 1mm. What it does at an idle it will sit there and then it will go up and back down on its own... it dosent like to stay at one idle speed... If any one understands what im talking about id appreciate the help! I ran the big boy pipe with an OD 97t.

smb, it sounds like it's definitely your low needle. ron knows better than me, but i'd say richen your low. not sure. also check your fuel lines and tank, as well as any place that could be leakin.... but like i said, i'm just guessin.

i wish everybody's engine could be the same experience as my b5... it's outstanding. go a few pages pack and ron's tuning guide is on here. i followed it more or less to the letter and it's been great

Tuning is a learning experience! your low end sounds rich due to your erratic idle check your low end run it flush and then turn it one full turn in from there. Run a few laps getting up to running temp It should not take any longer than 3 seconds from full throttle, for your idle to settle and pur.If it does than lean 1 hour at a time, your too rich.I very rarely use a temp gun after break in, I just look for a puff of smoke exiting turns who cares about idle.when your racing and slam on the brake you do not want flame outs only consistency!

Alright. Man I don't know what happened to me! I must have a leak in my tank (I replaced all the fuel line just before I ran)... I used to be able to tune on the box and be pretty close. I'll try to get out to the track early saturday. If everything goes well I'd really like to race =/


Engine is great.. Just the operator sucks.:p