i had a bad experience with the B7 pro so is the B5 is better?

i got a half gallon on my b5 and i'm still on my first o'donnell 97t. :nod:

I've never had an engine so easy to work with.

I'm looking at a 2.0, also looking at an xray and a moogen....

and for my fellow terrible, YES it's better than the b7... same top end, bottom end like a b3 and runtime like a +4 nova..... all of this for 199.99

Thanks, Ron!!!!!!!!!

Join Date: May 2007
Location: Central Alabama
Posts: 700
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)


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i had a bad experience with the B7 pro so is the B5 is better?


This question depends on what your looking for.i have a b7 pro put 9 trouble free gal on it before the rod broke.i love that engine tuned easy and always ran great.i was looking for a little better run time.so i purchased a b5.broke in very easy,tunes very easy,has great power and the best part i pit at 10 min.the same time i purchased my b5 my best friend purchased a new ninja almost $150 more and i would not consider trading if he ask.its more picky on tune it gets worse milage it has less low end,and on the longest straight we have around (about 200 feet)i can pull him the hole straight.a lot of people seem to love this ninja engine,but after breaking in and dealing with his then comparing it to my b7 or b5 i have no idea why.just my 2 cents.

i was having idle problems and it wont stay running....right now the ninja i have now has almost 4years of racing(winter & summer racing)still strong but im looking for a back up in case if it does decide to gout on me...right now amain on back order , who else have them in stock?

i believe Ron said sometime this week or next back in stock

thanks & also the 2.0 and moogen are good choices but rather have the 2.0

I dont think there is an idle issue for the B5
my engine can run forever then afterwards idle itself out of gas if I let it..
example I just ran a 30 minute main this weekend and my girl took my car back to the pits and after I was done BSing (about 5 minutes) I went over to my pits and my car was still running..lol I dont know why she didnt turn it off but non the less idling isnt a problem..lol

Anyone have a front bearing go bad at the 1 gallon mark?

Mine has over 4 gallons on it with no trouble at all .

Bobby, idle issues are most commonly caused by one of two things. First and probably most obvious would be the tune being off usually too small of an idle gap with too lean of a bottom end to compensate. Just makes things really finicky. The second most common thing is that the piston and sleeve is worn out. Frankly when there is a loss of compression from a worn piston/sleeve it's virtually impossible to get an engine to idle at a low RPM due to excessive blow by. Having said that though I do not think that you will have any issues with the B5, I think that you will find that the overall consensus on this engine is that it is really easy to tune! Regarding stock as as other mentioned B5's should be back in the shops around the end of this week, beginning of next. Hope this helps, let me know if you have any other questions.

Regards,

Ron Hopkins
Werks Racing

What happened? Front bearings failures are quite rare in my opinion as the majority of the stress is placed on the rear bearing (which is also why it is much larger) and which commonly fails more often. Fronts are usually one of the last things to go lol unless it is a something like a shield being damaged from getting junk/rocks stuck behind the flywheel or something like that. When that does happen we will occasionally see failures from dirt making it around the damaged portion of the shield and taking out the balls but most commonly you can just spray the bearing out and replace the shield and it is still usable. Give me some specifics on what you are seeing if you could ...

Regards,

Ron

Hey NitroAmmo, sorry almost overlooked your post. As XXXrcnitro mentioned (thank you!) take a look at the glow plug filament. If they are distorted, melted looking then you are running the engine too lean, if they are compressed then you are running the engine way rich (which is quite common when breaking in an engine). If you are outside of the break in period and are running at a normal shall we say racing tune and are loosing plugs every 15 minutes or so I'm going to say that you are probably running too lean on one of your needles (even if you are seeing a normal temp it is possible to for instance mask a lean bottom by running a rich top which will still keep temps in a normal rage). If you thing this might be the case then here is what I would do.

A) Back the HS needle off to be flush with the end of the housing.

B) Set the idle screw so that the carb is open about 1mm (roughly the thickness of a credit card). Just look down the throat of the carb to verify this.

C) Fire the engine up and see how it idles. If the idle is off do not touch the idle stock screw, adjust the low speed needle! Lean the low speed needle for a faster idle, richen the low speed needle for a slower idle.

Once you get that set.

D) Toss the car on the track and putt it around for a couple of minutes then do 1 or 2 hard laps and start adjusting the HS needle to get the top end performance that you want.

Once you have that set come back in to the pits and let the motor come back down to idle and see how the engine idles.

E) If the idle is high (or low) do not touch the idle stop screw, adjust the LS needle as indicated in C above.

Now your engine should be set properly and you should be good to go. Give this a shot and let me know if you are still experiencing any problems.

Regards,

Ron Hopkins
Werks Racing

I'll give it a shot Ron. That describes the engine fairly well I suppose. The temps are are 230-240 and it's about 90+ down here so...I'll let you know the outcome!

Hey Ron
when should the fuel be back in stock??
MO

Hello Mo, fuel has always been in stock. The problem is shipping on small orders (non truck freight). Right now I can only send single case quantity orders in quarts not gallons.

Regards,

Ron