I DO:p:p:lol::lol::lol::lol:

Ya ya Rub it in Varek. Salt in the wound feels Great. :lol:

Hi, assuming that your HS needle is open far enough to allow sufficient fuel flow into your engine, how your engine idles is dictated by your air gap and your low speed needle setting. So if you are running around and your engine is ideling high that would normally indicate that you have a too large air gap for the amount of fuel being supplied. In essence too much air, too little fuel=lean condition =high idle. So the fix is either to richen the LS or reduce the air gap. If you are following my break in instructions you will note that I mention that once you start leaning your HS needle it will also affect your LS which you can see as your idle speed will increase. So I tell you that at each step where you lean the HS 1-2 hours follow this by blipping the throttle and letting the engine come back down to idle. See how it idles and if it is too high, this means that your LS is too lean and you need to richen it a few hours and try again. If the idle is too low then your LS is too rich and you need to lean it a few hours.

Right now it sounds like you are getting a basic understanding of how and engine performs. Your paying attention to the right stuff and asking the right questions! Just try the stuff that I mentioned above and you should be able to get sorted quickly.

Regards,

Ron

Engine/pipe choice
 

Hi Ron,
Can you help me decide which engine to buy, B5-Pro or B6-Pro. I'll be running mostly on the new track Kevin made at NorCal seen here: http://liverc.com/live/broadcast/ Just click on NorCal and wait for the vid

Also, can you recommend a pipe for the Mugen, I'm leaning towards the 57 for tunability
Thanks in advance,
Greg

Hi Greg, the choice between the two engines is going to be dictated more by the type of car you put it in. You mentioned Mugen but are you running Buggy or Truggy?

Thanks Ron,

I will make some adjustments as you recommended, but the adjustments seem like they will make the engine run even cooler with the exception of the air gap, so if the air gap is too large would that make a condition for a cooler or hotter temp.

The main thing for you to decide on is which break in system you are going to use. If you use some type of heat cycle method or something like that then you are going to have to follow their system. If you are using my system then you mentioned that you are only on tank 6 or 8. So you will note that I make no mention of temperatures in my guide and you should not be worried about the temp that you are running at as you are just breaking you engine in. Even after it is broken in temp is just used for a reference and that is it. If you think about it what is more important, an engine that is tuned and runs properly or an engine that runs at a certain temperature lol??? If you think about it if your engine is running properly, blows good smoke, clears out properly, never lean bogs and runs exactly the same for 30+ minutes who cares what the temp is right? So I would not get too caught up with all of that.....

In regards to your last question if your air gap is too large (for the amount of fuel being provided by your LS needle) that would make for a lean condition. This would normally result in hotter temperatures. Unfortunately usually people that are not that experienced with tuning tend to run a lean bottom end with a rich top end. This keeps the overall engine temperature low but wears out the engine quickly. Again best bet if you are not sure what you are doing is to read my break in guide and follow it step by step.

Got it!

Thanks again.

oops, I guess that would make a difference. I'll be putting it in the new MBX6R buggy. Also a pipe recommendation would help. This will be my first Werks engine, I've heard nothing but great things about them.
p.s. do you have a link to your break-in process

Hi for buggy I'd go with the B6-Pro. Pair that with the 2058 pipe set and you will be dialed! Regarding break in instructions those can be found in the first post of the B2, B5 & B6 thread. It's a pretty simple and straightforward system. Just read through it and if you have any questions let me know!

Not a problem! If you have any other questions or concerns please do not hesitate to ask, I'm here to help you guys out!

Regards,

Ron

Hey Ron, I have a question. I own B5 that I run in my truggy. First of all, great engine, hasn't flamed out in a race yet! I just am wondering about something I've noticed with it, and whether it's a tuning error on my part or not. First off, I always preheat my engine before I start it, and it starts up great. Couple blips on the box, and it will have a nice slow smooth idle, and stay running fine. What I am noticing, is its got the nice slow steady idle after starting, but at the end of heats and mains, the idle is really high and and just seems to run more sparadically towards end of mains and will most of the time cut out on me before I can get to it off the drivers stand to cut the engine myself. Is this a result of poor tuning, or is this a normal way of the B5 running? Just wondering if you have heard of this, or know of how to fix it. Let me know if I need to be more specific with anything to better help you diagnose this. Thanks, Ron.

Chad

Hi Chad, what you are describing is usually a sign of simply being too lean. As your idle starts off ok and then increases at the end I'm going to guess that you are probably a little too lean on the HS needle setting. Keep in mind that your tune is going to fluctuate depending on the weather conditions but next time try richening your HS needle 1-2 hours before you first go out. When you are still on the box you might find that this causes your idle to be a little too low, if so do not touch your idle stop screw just lean your LS 1-2 hours to compensate which will bring your idle speed up. Then toss it out on the track and let it rip for a bit and see what happens. More than likely as mentioned this will take care of your problem and not affect our overall performance (bottom, mid or top) as what we did was simply change the needle balance a bit;) Let me know what happens!

Awesome, thanks Ron. I guess I always had the understanding that your HSN had nothing to do with the idle. That your LSN and idle screw were the only things that effected the idle. So, I take it the issue with my high idle is more or less the engine and chassis temperature heating up, along with the slightly lean tune that is my problem? I usually compensate for temperature, so I am decent on that. Again, never had a flameout with my B5, so I was even thinking its me overreacting to something that isn't a problem at all. I will start with the richening of the HSN. Glad to hear that it shouldn't effect the performance too much. Thanks again, Ron. Appreciate the help.

Chad

The thing that you have to keep in mind is that the high speed needle affects the overall fuel delivery. Think of it like your garden hose. You have a nozzle on the end which is the LS needle, but you have a tap at the wall which is your HS needle. You open the tap a turn so you have good water pressure flowing through the hose, then you adjust your nozzle so that the water shoots say 3 feet. Now if you go back and close the tap 1/4 turn the water will still come out of the nozzle but it might only go 2 1/2 feet. To get it to go 3 feet again you probably have to go back to the nozzle and adjust it a bit. The exact same thing happens with the carburetors. If you lean the HS needle that means that less fuel is flowing into the carburetor so you have also leaned the LS needle. If you want the same amount of fuel flowing through the LS needle then you have to go back and open it up (richen) slightly to compensate. This is what I was talking about in my last post. The issue that you are experiencing is a typical sign of an engine being set too lean and it basically over heating. So to compensate for that we are going to richen the HS a tad bit which should keep the engine from getting so hot. However you mentioned that when you first go out that the idle is perfect and the bottom is good, so it sounds like you have the bottom end setting good. So to keep this the same if we richened the top a few hours we now need to lean the bottom a bit to compensate just like with the garden hose. Make sense?