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Originally Posted by Werks
(Post 10091683)
The thing that you have to keep in mind is that the high speed needle affects the overall fuel delivery. Think of it like your garden hose. You have a nozzle on the end which is the LS needle, but you have a tap at the wall which is your HS needle. You open the tap a turn so you have good water pressure flowing through the hose, then you adjust your nozzle so that the water shoots say 3 feet. Now if you go back and close the tap 1/4 turn the water will still come out of the nozzle but it might only go 2 1/2 feet. To get it to go 3 feet again you probably have to go back to the nozzle and adjust it a bit. The exact same thing happens with the carburetors. If you lean the HS needle that means that less fuel is flowing into the carburetor so you have also leaned the LS needle. If you want the same amount of fuel flowing through the LS needle then you have to go back and open it up (richen) slightly to compensate. This is what I was talking about in my last post. The issue that you are experiencing is a typical sign of an engine being set too lean and it basically over heating. So to compensate for that we are going to richen the HS a tad bit which should keep the engine from getting so hot. However you mentioned that when you first go out that the idle is perfect and the bottom is good, so it sounds like you have the bottom end setting good. So to keep this the same if we richened the top a few hours we now need to lean the bottom a bit to compensate just like with the garden hose. Make sense?
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Hey Ron, yes, that makes perfect sense now. Thanks for breaking it down crayola style for me! Lol. I will richen a couple hours on HSN, and lean my LSN an hour to start with and let ya know what happens. Thanks again, man!
Chad
Originally Posted by Werks
(Post 10091683)
The thing that you have to keep in mind is that the high speed needle affects the overall fuel delivery. Think of it like your garden hose. You have a nozzle on the end which is the LS needle, but you have a tap at the wall which is your HS needle. You open the tap a turn so you have good water pressure flowing through the hose, then you adjust your nozzle so that the water shoots say 3 feet. Now if you go back and close the tap 1/4 turn the water will still come out of the nozzle but it might only go 2 1/2 feet. To get it to go 3 feet again you probably have to go back to the nozzle and adjust it a bit. The exact same thing happens with the carburetors. If you lean the HS needle that means that less fuel is flowing into the carburetor so you have also leaned the LS needle. If you want the same amount of fuel flowing through the LS needle then you have to go back and open it up (richen) slightly to compensate. This is what I was talking about in my last post. The issue that you are experiencing is a typical sign of an engine being set too lean and it basically over heating. So to compensate for that we are going to richen the HS a tad bit which should keep the engine from getting so hot. However you mentioned that when you first go out that the idle is perfect and the bottom is good, so it sounds like you have the bottom end setting good. So to keep this the same if we richened the top a few hours we now need to lean the bottom a bit to compensate just like with the garden hose. Make sense?
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Not a problem guys. As you can see it all really is pretty simple if you break it down to the basics!:nod: One of the biggest problems is that people tend to over complicate things when it comes down to tuning. Just remember to use the KISS (keep it simple stupid) mentality when it comes to things! Look at what your issue is, figure out what needle is responsible for the issue that you see, adjust that needle to fix the issue, consider if that change is going to affect anything else in regards to your engines performance? If not leave alone, if so adjust/compensate for it and you are done. KISS:D
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Glow plug
I have been using o 97t plugs for breaking, I will be sWitching to werks#5, question is should I expect to have to adjust settings or should everything be ok with the change.
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Originally Posted by pcfriend
(Post 10102995)
I have been using o 97t plugs for breaking, I will be sWitching to werks#5, question is should I expect to have to adjust settings or should everything be ok with the change.
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@ pc
I dont think you have to go back to flush.. The tuning difference wont be that superb big... Just listen to the engine & it will tell you what to do. |
Originally Posted by Matt Piva
(Post 10103083)
Probably have to retune. Just put ur lsn to flush then in 2 hours n hsn should be flush then 5 hours In. That's what I do. Iv had a super lean bottom b4 running anything other then sirio based plugs, the closest is the p3. Nothing else to me works without a lean bog on bottom. The sirio/werks 5/6 plugs r incredible to say the least, iv had one going for over 3 gallons now n I'm starting to b shocked cause I'm pinned all the time. Hope a filament don't get me keeping it in so long.
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Ok guys, I have raced my first race with my new B5 in a Mugen MBX6T, all I can say is this motor has major speed, so much that I will need to reduce my EPA on my throttle to slow it up a bit, this motor has tremendous power, I did have my needles a too lean causing a high idle, my air gap I believe may have been closed too much or not open far enough, I have about a dime size gap and the idle is perfect, no flame outs during racing, if I had to post a negative it would be that I got 9 1/2 minutes run time, this is still a new motor and a bit fat, so maybe i will be able to lean it out a little down the road and get the 11-12 minutes that some are reporting, I am using a 2013 and love this motor pipe combo, I am now a loyal werks motor user and no werks do not sponsor or pay me for my feedback as a matter of fact I am a rookie, but I know I will be beating those guys with the 400 and 500 motors you can take that to the bank.
But the one thing that matters most to me is customer service, and I have not seen the greatest customer service since I have entered the RC scene, but you cannot ask for better support than what Ron provides from Werks on this forum, problems are addressed quickly and solid advice to problems provided even though many variables may exist for everyone using these motors, I will be purchasing a new buggy and guess what is going in it? You got it Werks B6 Pro. |
Originally Posted by pcfriend
(Post 10110155)
Ok guys, I have raced my first race with my new B5 in a Mugen MBX6T, all I can say is this motor has major speed, so much that I will need to reduce my EPA on my throttle to slow it up a bit, this motor has tremendous power, I did have my needles a too lean causing a high idle, my air gap I believe may have been closed too much or not open far enough, I have about a dime size gap and the idle is perfect, no flame outs during racing, if I had to post a negative it would be that I got 9 1/2 minutes run time, this is still a new motor and a bit fat, so maybe i will be able to lean it out a little down the road and get the 11-12 minutes that some are reporting, I am using a 2013 and love this motor pipe combo, I am now a loyal werks motor user and no werks do not sponsor or pay me for my feedback as a matter of fact I am a rookie, but I know I will be beating those guys with the 400 and 500 motors you can take that to the bank.
But the one thing that matters most to me is customer service, and I have not seen the greatest customer service since I have entered the RC scene, but you cannot ask for better support than what Ron provides from Werks on this forum, problems are addressed quickly and solid advice to problems provided even though many variables may exist for everyone using these motors, I will be purchasing a new buggy and guess what is going in it? You got it Werks B6 Pro. Thanks for the kind comments and I'm glad that you are happy with the performance of your engine! In regards to run time one thing to keep in mind is that even though our engines are really easy to break in it still takes a good gallon of fuel before the engine is 100% completely broken in and you will see optimum run time. So if this is still a new engine give it a little bit of time!:nod: |
why B5 pro and B6 are no more sold by amainhobby
i would like to know why some Werk engines (B6, B5 pro) has disappeared from amainhobby engines list ?
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1 Attachment(s)
This year is starting out right! 2nd place at Kentucky State Off Road Championship. B5 and Werks Fuel. :nod:
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Originally Posted by jflamb
(Post 10140256)
i would like to know why some Werk engines (B6, B5 pro) has disappeared from amainhobby engines list ?
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Originally Posted by mikesd1980
(Post 10140311)
I don't know why they disappeared. I've asked the same question on the B6 side but no answer. They had a special on the b5 pro for 214.99. I grabbed me one. I looked the next day and it just disappeared from catalog. The b6 pro is still available though.
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Originally Posted by Werks
(Post 10087376)
Hi for buggy I'd go with the B6-Pro. Pair that with the 2058 pipe set and you will be dialed! Regarding break in instructions those can be found in the first post of the B2, B5 & B6 thread. It's a pretty simple and straightforward system. Just read through it and if you have any questions let me know!
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Originally Posted by pcfriend
(Post 10140764)
Ron I was thinking of running the 2057 with my b6, should I be looking at the 2058, I want to order this pipe today. The track I run at is big and technical, it will be changed next month for the nitro challenge.
2013, most bottom end, most mid range 2nd most top end, worst fuel economy. 2057, smoothest power across the board, little less top than the 2013. Best fuel economy. 2058, 2nd most bottom and mid range. Most top end, 2nd best fuel economy. |
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