Idawg, thanks for the comparison info! As a manufacturer this type of thing is always good for us to know. We try to stay up on what everyone is doing and you can learn a lot from comparing cars on-track while testing but unfortunately with sooooo many engines on the market, it's impossible for us to test every single one. Having said that though based on your feedback it looks like the B5 is an excellent alternative to the Ninja even more so when you toss in the significant cost savings!

BigNasty, thanks! Let me know what you think when you get to run it!

2fst2c, thank you! I try to take care of everyone to the best of my ability.

TeamOrange, thank you for the comparison info also! Regarding the clutch set up if you page back a ways (think it will be in the first 5 or so pages) I listed Kortz's clutch set up. We've done a lot of testing on this and it was the best that he had been able to come up with so far so you might want to give it a shot!

AsSc8, the elevation that you are at is going to change things up a bit as far as tuning is concerned (as you obviously noticed lol). Once you get some more time on the engine let me know what your thoughts are!

GarageJ, Hello Jani thank you for the truggy testing information, that's quite a bit of run time! Noticed that you mentioned 25% fuel, are a lot of your guys running that for the extra 10-15 seconds of run time that it produces, the lower cost or is it just the norm in Finland? Also with that nitro content if your customer needs it and knows how to do so, he can drop the deck height down a bit which will gain him some additional torque.

NitroAmmo, as 1fastguy1 pointed out that usually is a sign of being off on the needles. What is happening is that you are hitting a dead spot (and this could be caused by either too little or too much fuel) right when the carburetor transitions from the LS needle to the HS needle. Give his suggestion a shot or the best thing is obviously if you have access to them as you mentioned hit up one of the experienced tuners at the track and have them give you a hand. It should not take but a couple of minuted for them to get it taken care of.

smb17, remember what I wrote a ways back about stock needle settings lol! Best bet is usually just to go to flush on both needles and tune from there initially. After that just take your time with the needles and remember that it is always safer to be too rich rather than too lean and when adjusting always make smaller 1-2 hour adjustments at a time then run and see how they affect the engine then make another adjustment if needed.

Regards,

Ron

hey Ron, I bought a B5 and it has about 2 millimeters of play in the crank. I havent run it at all. I wanted to send it back to amain but they dont want to take it. I was hoping you might help me out on this one.

When you say 2mm of play in the crank are you referring to forward and back play (as in the ability to slide the crank forward and backward a tad in the bearings) or rotational play (as in the piston is stuck at TDC and you can still rotate the crank slightly as in say picturing a clock face +/- 1-2 hours in each direction)?

Regards,

Ron Hopkins
Werks Racing

I'm referring to foward /back play, more then a tad.more then I have seen in any engine before.

Mine also had some front to back play in it. I made sure when putting the collet and flywheel on that it was pulled out all the way. I don't know if that was the correct thing to do though.

Correct. When installing the collet/clutch pull the crank all the way forward and then tighten the clutch nut. This is something you should do on every engine. The play you feel is probably the space between the crank pin and the backplate. You need some space there or the pin will rub. Pull it forward, install clutch, and fire it up.

you wouldnt be saying that if you had my b5 in your hands and felt the amount of play for yourself. Its not like this is a rebuilt engine Im trying to rejuvinate. This engine is new so my expectations are alot higher then just " making it work".

I just have recieved this engine and have to say it looks SWEET.
One of the first ting I noticed was also the backplay. I am realy happy with this backplay. I have seen 400 usd engines get ruined just by rubbing the backplate. When the clutch is installend the correct way U never have to worry about rubbing. I know I has plenty of room in that area.

I hope to rn it before this comming week end. If not it will be on the shelf fore 2 weeks. I have to go on a hollyday:cry:

You can pull the crank forward, all day long, but when you go to tighten the clutch nut, it will just slide back to where it was originally. When you tighten up the clutch nut on the collet, it will remove most of, if not all the play. The way I have always done it is to remove back plate, apply pressure to the crank counter weight to push the crank forward, and then install the flywheel while keeping the pressure applied on the crank...and re-install the back plate. No biggie IMO...and like was mentioned earlier, that gap means that the rod wont rub the back plate.

Lol I can see that the tempers are already starting to flare. Before going off on people please note that I do not think that anyone was telling you to just work around a concern, rather keeping in mind that there is (to put it mildly lol) a rather wide range of experience levels present on these type of forums I think that they were just trying to indicate to you that some forward/rear play is normal and explain how to handle that when installing the clutch.

As mentioned some front to rear play is normal and being technical there would be no more or less play in a new engine or as you mentioned a rebuilt one that you were trying to rejuvenate. Front to rear play is frankly not a factor as the only thing stopping the crank (with the flywheel not installed) sliding completely out of the engine is the fact that it ends up hitting the back plate. As was mentioned when the flywheel is installed you would normally pull the crank forward so that it sits snug (to clarify for newer people reading this not super tight, just snug) against the bearings, then the collet is slid to the base of the front bearing and the flywheel and flywheel nut is installed and tightened. Again this is all being written for the benefit of the newer nitro guys that might be reading this.

Now moving on to the B5 specifically, it works the same way except we increased the spacing between the crank pin and the back plate to stop the crank pin and the rod rubbing on it. The metal particles that are generated by this happening are almost like a fine metal dust that gets into everything and is actually one of the larger contributors to wear in an engine (other than being run too lean or using a bad airfilter). By increasing the spacing or reducing the depth of the back plate we accomplished two goals a) increased the crankcase volume slightly and b) reduced the amount of friction/parasitic drag caused by the rod rubbing on the back plate and the additional wear/damage that is accompanied by this.

So in a nutshell I guess what I'm saying in a long drawn out manner lol is that it's supposed to be like that ;) So please go ahead and assemble the engine/clutch as you normally would. Snug the crank forward when doing so, slide the collet down against the front bearing, install the flywheel and nut all as you typically would with any other engine and go ahead and break it in n have fun with it! If you have any further concerns please rest assured , all of our engines are covered under warranty against manufacturers defect. So if there ever is a problem down the road and you think that it's in any way related to construction and/or design just give us a call or e-mail us and we will give you instructions on how to send it in for warranty inspection and repair. Having said that though again what you are mentioning as a concern is completely normal to this engine design. We've tested this repeatedly including on the engines that Kortz ran for umpteen gallons and there are absolutely zero issues related to this. I hope that this helps explain clarify things! Let me know if you have questions regarding this or in general.

Regards,

Ron Hopkins
Werks Racing

Ron,
When will you or Amain be getting some more motors in stock, Thanks for answering all of the questions that people are asking, outstanding customer service as far as I am concerned.

i must have gotten the last one:sneaky:

Lucky You

+1 i'm looking to pick up a new mill in a couple of weeks and was hoping this was the one. :sneaky:

Every nitro motor I've ever owned had some play between the crank pin and back plate. It always goes away when the collet and flywheel are installed.