jpz, the B5 uses a turbo style SG crank without epoxy filling or slugs. Realistically I think that for off-road there are only a couple of engines that have both of these and I think that we were one of the first to start doing this with off-road engines with our B7-Pro's that we built for the team guys for the 06 Worlds in Indonesia. The OS Speeds that came out right around the same time also uses this (and the current Mugen version). Other than that I don't know of too many that have both . There are some that have only the weighted crank (i.e. Toro Nero) and some that have only the epoxy filled crank (i.e. some sirio engines) but again very few with both.

There are specific advantages to doing each but realistically under real world use there is a very, very minimum performance gain that while it may be noticeable on the dyno will rarely if ever be noticed on an off-road track by the average driver. We ran these back to back on this engine design (lightened crank versus stock, balanced crank versus non) and the conclusion that we came to was it was not worth pushing the price point up higher to add this. From the results that we have gotten with the engine already I would say that this belief has been validated.

Well mines on backorder Werks.:):nod:

I put mine on back order this morning I can wait to get mine because the fall point series race is starting Saturday so I hope I can have it for the next race.

Would a JP-3 be good with this?

Also I think a free clutch or T-Shirt would be great for buying one on the first shipment :smile::lol::smile:

Thanks guys! Please post on here what your thoughts are once you get them in!

Sounds good, give me a minute to raise the price to $250 and I'll give you a free t-shirt lol! :p

Regarding the JP-3 I have not tested with that pipe and the results that you see are going to be widely dependent on your driving style and track layout but if you do test one please let us know what your thoughts are. It would be nice to start building up a general knowledge base on here for everyone.

Regards,

Ron Hopkins
Werks Racing

hi rons,

i just back order mine... i will put this engine in my rc8t....some question here:

1) what is the great running temp for werks engine ?
2) what is the recomended way to break in ( i would be very happy if you let me know in detail)?
3) what other brand venturi insert compatible ?
4) i have pipe 2047,3023, jp3, jp4, which one is the best for this engine ? maybe you can recomend 1...

Hi
Very interested in this engine currently have the B7 (will keep as second engine)
I would like to ask what the recommended plugs are for this engine. I race at sea level with humidity in the 60% range most of the time. A very hot day would be 80F

Hello rc_cal,

Thanks for back ordering one of the B5's! Regarding your questions:

1) Normal operating temperature would be between 210 to around 250'ish degree's. I'm quoting a 40+ degree operating window because there are again quite a range of variable that can affect this i.e. weather, plug choice, pipe, track size and most definitely fuel choice. Having said that temp is secondary! Always tune your engine to get the performance that you are looking for while making sure that you are still blowing some smoke. No smoke = you are going to have a problem. Once you get your engine set with the performance that you like, take the temp and then you can use that as a reference point down the road to quickly set your motor in the range that you lik.

2) The infamous break in question lol! We're a racing company and make engines for racers, what I have found is that talk to 4 different racers and you will get 4 different opinions on how to do it lol! You wanted a detailed answer though so let the book writing begin lol!

The way that I normal do it is to set the HS needle to flush with the end of the housing and then with the air filter off, fire it up and leave it on the box. Blip the throttle a couple of times and then let it come back down to idle. Then I start to screw in the idle stop screw until I see around a 2-2.5mm air gap (opening on the slide). When you are doing this your idle speed will start to increase so you are basically going to have to start richening your low speed needle a couple of hours (until you get a smooth, steady idle) then do a couple of hours on the idle stop screw and back and forth until you see the 2-2.5mm+ air gap that I mentioned. As this is a two stroke engine, performance is always dictated by air/fuel ratio and as we are now talking about the low speed needle (remember we set the HS needle flush with the end of the housing and there is no need to touch this again for a while) if you have too much fuel (rich setting) you will have a low idle, if you have too little fuel (lean setting) you will have a high idle). It basically is a no brainer if you are too rich or lean because your engine will tell you!

Once you get a steady idle going with the large air gap that I mentioned (large air gap means a lot of air flow, to get a steady idle means that to compensate you will have to dump a lot of fuel through the engine= guaranteed rich condition and you can not damage your engine right off the bat by being too lean) I idle it through the first tank on the box. This is done basically to pump a lot of oil through the engine to flush out any metal particles in the engine and remove the minute bit of metal particles that are always released initially during break in.

Now with the radio gear on, engine off and the slide closed look down the throat of the carb and slowly start to pull the trigger. Take note of the how much throttle you are giving at the point that the low speed needle (which is connected to the slide) comes out of the spray bar (the hollow tube) on the opposite side of the carb. We will use this as a referance for tuning later on but basically what is happening is that during the range of throttle movement that the low speed needle is embedded in the spray bar, the low speed needle will affect fuel delivery (for the purist we both know that this is a simplified explanation as the fuel first travels through the HS needle circuit before going to the LS but since we already set the HS to a rich setting and will not be touching this for a while it's pretty much a mute point). At the point that it is out of the spray bar the fuel delivery (or tune) is affected solely by the high speed needle.

Then I re-install the air filter, fire up the engine and toss it on the ground. Start slowly doing figure eights at say 3 to 4 mph until you run through the tank. Then for the next tank i fire the engine up again and back the idle screw out a couple of hours. You will immediately hear the idle speed start to reduce, to compensate for this I then lean the low speed needle a couple of hours until I again hear a smooth steady idle. Once I have this I then start doing figure eights again but now a little bit fasted until the tank is empty. Next tank fire up the engine, back idle screw out a couple of hours, lean LS needle a couple of hours, do figure eights a couple of mph faster.

Basically what I'm doing with this system is slowly reducing the amount of lubricant being pumped through the engine while at the same time slowly increasing the amount of load that is being put on the engine. This I keep on repeating until I get to approximately the point that I'm pulling the trigger far enough that I know the low speed needle is being pulled out of the spray bar (remember we checked this initially while we had the air filter off) at which point your air gap (the amount the slide is help open by the idle stop screw) will have been reduced to aprox. 1-1.5mm.

Once we get to this point we now need to be concerned about the HS needle. What I then do is re-fuel and fire the vehicle up, putt it around for a couple of minutes to heat saturate the case and the chassis and then do a quick high speed run around the track (do not hold it maxed out for a long time on the straight, this is bad). I pull it back in, temp the engine and adjust the HS needle so that I see right around 200 degrees. Then let the engine drop back down to idle and see how the idle performance looks. If the idle is now fast (it has now increased) this means that you need to richen your low speed needle (for the amount of air flowing into the engine, there is too little fuel flowing into it = lean condition) don't touch the idle screw just the LS needle. If the idle is low this means that you now need to lean your low speed needle (for the amount of air flowing into the engine there is too much fuel flowing into it = rich condition) again don't touch the idle screw.

Then I toss the car on the track for another 6-8 tanks with the engine running around 200 degrees as explained above running close to race speed but rolling off the throttle mid way down the straight. Once I'm done with the 6-8 tanks doing this we would have run around 12 to 15 tanks total through the engine in all of the steps above. I now consider the engine pretty much broken in and I'll get close to race tune on the HS setting the engine around 220 degrees. Again check to see what happens to the idle speed and adjust your low speed needle to compensate if it is high or low. Run a further 6 or so tanks through the engine driving it as you normally would and you are good to go to full race tune which will be in the 220 to say mid 240'ish range and I would consider the engine broken in and ready to be pounded on.

A long explanation but using this system helps avoid one of the most common mistakes faced by newer tuners which is setting their low speed needle too lean because they have too little air gap (the carb is hardly open help open by the idle stop screw so to compensate they set the LS needle super lean easily causing damage to the engine).

I also like to use this system because I often end up tuning and/or breaking in a lot of different types of engine with people. Using this system i never even worry about knowing what the factory needle settings are or anything along those lines. I just set the HS and LS flush with the end of the housing, set the air gap so that the slide is open 1-1.5mm and fire the engine up. How it idles immediately tells me if the LS needle is too lean or rich so I set this, then check the temp after a high speed run, adjust the HS needle to be in the 220'ish range, check idle speed and set LS so that it is smooth and steady and the engine is ready to go. Takes about 4-5 minutes total on an engine that could be completely out of whack and I've never even seen or ran before lol!

3) Ours, Sirio and possibly some of the Orion ones I would think.

4) Again we did all of our testing with our own pipes i.e. the 2013 and 3014 (3 chamber pipe) but I would start out with the JP3 initially and then test the others. The JP 4 and I'm assuming the 3023 are 3 chamber pipes so these will probably be more restrictive slightly reducing the power band but increasing the fuel economy so depending on what organization you run under (i.e. if use of these pipes is required) and if you feel the engine is over powered for you these can also be a worth while item to test.

Hope this helps!

Regards,

Ron Hopkins

Werks Racing

Hello Slimie,

Thanks for using one of our product already! As I mentioned on here before you will find the B5 to have a similar feel to the B7 but with more bottom end and slightly less top and longer run times. Regarding plug choice we have ran in some really humid weather (N. Carolina in the middle of summer lol) and always seem to stick with OS P3's, OD97T's or our Werks BT5P's. Hope this helps, let me know if you have any other questions!

Regards,

Ron Hopkins
Werks Racing

I know this may sound silly but I was hoping you guys might consider putting a sticker or 2 inside the box the engine comes in. I wouldnt mind sporting "WERKS" on my car when i'm running the engine and I know others who feel the same.

Congrats Ron on the new power plant.

A 5 port will round out that engine line nicely.

Thanks Kevin! By the way it was nice chatting with you and Tanner again at the Nats, tell him I said hi!

dandrat, honestly it's not silly at all, what is silly is that I have not made the time yet to look into getting stickers printed in Italy so that we could include them lol! This is definitely something that I need to do and I'll make it a point to get started on it when Italy comes back from vacation in a couple of weeks!

By the way for any of you guys that were waiting for the shops to show stock on these A-main now has them in stock and available for immediate shipment.

Regards,

Ron Hopkins
Werks Racing

Hi Ron, congrates on the new mill, sounds to be a greate motor. My question is this, is there a reason that you used one motor for such a long period of time, is there something your testing as far as longevity and holding of tolerance? Thanks Ron