Hey guys, I have a new B5 coming in the mail and will be here thursday! Can't wait! And my impatience is the reason for these questions that I am going to throw out here. Because I'm going to want to slap it on and start break in immediately! lol So I dont want to be running back and forth to the hobbystore for the next couple days after getting it buying peices I didnt realize I would need to install the new B5.

First of all, I am throwing it on a Losi 2.0 Truggy, replacing the stock 454 engine that came with it. So my first question is, is it going to fit right in with the engine mount that I already have that came with the truck, or am I going to have to buy mount accessories? And are all the components on my shaft going to be the same pieces from my old engine, ie flywheel, brass collet, and stuff like that?

And finally, I know you ask 5 different people the proper break-in and get 5 different answers. But I wanna just ask if WERKS themselves has a breakin method for this engine. Sometimes each company has thier own, like traxxas, and stuff like that. Anyone know?

Thanks guys, I am super stoked to get this engine in my truggy! First upgraded engine I've ever bought! So ANY advice for a first time engine installation would be helpful! Thanks a lot everyone!

Chad

Hey Chad,

I run this engine in my 8ight-T 2.0 and it's incredible. Just finished breaking it in using a heat cycle method. Not at full race tune yet, but this thing still has tons of grunt to get the truggy moving. Also, running slightly rich I was getting 8.5-9 minutes of runtime.

Look on the first post of the first page of this thread and you will find the break in and tuning methods.

I used the stock motor mounts, flywheel, clutch, clutchbell, collet, and hardware. Shim the clutchbell appropriately. Use the clutch setup that Drake uses. 2 composite/green spring and 2 aluminum/gold springs. Replace clutch bearings and shoes if necessary. I also geared it 13/48 for a relatively large 1/8 track (Revelation Raceway).

Enjoy.

Hey, thanks SEF! That is exactly what I was hoping to hear on the using all the stock shaft components that came with the original engine! Makes things a hell of a lot easier!

And, is that break in method on the first page of this thread NOT the heat cycle method? If its not, I would probably like to do the heat cycle method myself, I imagine its a little easier than the method on this thread, and harder to mess up! lol The method at the beginning of the thread seems like it has a lot of moving parts, and seems there are a lot of things I could mess up! lol Anyway, thanks again. Cant wait to get it going when I get it!

Chad

The method on the first page is a heat cycle method where you are basically running the engine rich while still at operating temps (around 200 F). Then you are allowing the engine to cool to ambient temp. You do this either by timed cycles or by number of tanks. As you get more time on your engine or more tanks, you slowly lean the engine. What is described on the first page is good advice and you should read it carefully.

You can find more about breaking in your engine using a heat cycle method here:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-...eak-bible.html.

A few tips:

Have fun with it, because I think this engine was easy to break in and runs great. The price is an added bonus.

Awesome, thanks again, SEF. Yes, I will definately be taking my time! I want the most out of this engine. Thanks for all the info, take care, buddy!

Chad

Sorry, SEF. One last question! lol When you complete a cycle, and let the engine cool to ambient temp, do you heat the engine back up with a heat gun again before starting back up? Do this before each cycle, right? Last question, and I should be good! lol

Chad

Yes, heat before starting the engine up for the next cycle. In fact, even after break in, I always preheat the engine prior to starting. This allows me to get to operating temps quicker and allows me to tune faster without having to wait too long to get the engine and chassis completely heat saturated.

As I started the break in on my B5, I did the 2.5mm air gap and richend up the LS needle as much as I could, but I could not get a smooth steady idle, the engine would pulse, almost like you were bumping the throttle. Is this normal?

Maybe this is a dumb question. I should break my new B5 engine in with the same fuel I plan on running through it on race days, right? Most other manufacturers say this. Just making sure.

xl- yes same fuel

During break in you are running super rich so your engine will not idle "perfectly", this is normal. The only thing that you are concerned about during break in is that the engine stays running. Worry about the idle after it is broken in and you are working on your race tune.

I ordered my new B5 engine and it will get here Thursday. I had a question about the pipe I will be running on it. I see most people are running a 2013 on it. I eventually plan on getting one, but my budget will not allow me to get one immediately. So for now, I will be running the JP-1 from Jammin that I have on my stock Losi 454 now. It's a brand new pipe with barely 5 tanks ran thru it. From what I understand, the JP1 is tuned to improve low end performance. Does anyone have any personal experience with this combo, or give me some idea how this pipe on a B5 will affect it's tuning and performance characteristics? I just don't wanna go into this combo completely blind, so I will be able to identify tuning issues with this specific pipe on the B5 and know if a problem occurs, or that's just how the engine should act with this pipe on it. Any info will be greatly appreciated! Thanks guys!

Chad

how many of you guys seal your werks engines? what sealant works best?

no one I know...I did as I thought I had a leak but it was a bad tank :flaming:

how do you know if the tank is bad?