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Old 05-31-2005 | 04:36 PM
  #931  
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Does anyone know which header will work on the sirio .30 with the roto start on it?
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Old 06-04-2005 | 06:03 AM
  #932  
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where can i get in the us the evo 3 s12t3, also, is it the e, i or af version, as i was looking at the home page in italy, the e and i version comes with hardened shaft, filled and has factory mods on the sleeve.
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Old 06-04-2005 | 09:48 AM
  #933  
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Originally Posted by Seisick
where can i get in the us the evo 3 s12t3, also, is it the e, i or af version, as i was looking at the home page in italy, the e and i version comes with hardened shaft, filled and has factory mods on the sleeve.
Well, where in the world are you? I got mine from HK and they just came out a couple of days ago. I think E=EFRA and I=IFMAR but not sure what AF version is.
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Old 06-08-2005 | 12:34 PM
  #934  
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Originally Posted by kitracer
stock shim with the EVO3 best for 20%. 25 to 30%, better add 0.1mm
Use sirio 6 plug. This should give you a good starting point.
Kitracer, thanks for this. I got word from Andrea at SIRIO that it would be best to shim .10 for 30% for breakin.
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Old 06-08-2005 | 01:40 PM
  #935  
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Yes, You should shim it up .10 not only for break in but the entire life of the engine.

I got my Sirio EVO 3 earlier this week and had a look at the motor from the inside out. It is NICE! The sleeve is the craziest out there right now for a stock engine. There are teardrops on all three intake ports, the bottom of the sleeve is radiused and the exhaust and exhaust port have been matched as close as possible without hand work. It is very similar to the early JP full option FX-03T. The pics on the Sirio site are decieving, because it looks a lot nicer in person.

The crank bore is HUGE! I hear though that this might be a problem in regard to the strength of the crank. Someone I know has broken the crank in 2 EVO 3's. The crank is not hard coated but it is filled.

The head is machined on the inside to sit deeper on to the case like the LCG Collari head but it has only 8 fins instead to make idle adjustments easier. It was almost impossible to adjust the idle in a belt car with the L. Collari engine.

My engine came shimmed with .004(1 silver and 1 copper) so I added .001

The carburetor is exactly the same as the EVO 2 and requires a lot of force to push into the case. This had me worried at first because I thought something was in the way.

The backplate is now machined from billet aluminum and has larger scallops cut into the sides.

I compared the EVO3 side by side to a L. Collari Sirio and the EVO3 is superior in every way.

I'm breaking in the engine tomorrow and using Rocket Science Fuel and a Novarossi 6F plug.
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Old 06-09-2005 | 03:43 AM
  #936  
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Originally Posted by kidDynomite
Kitracer, thanks for this. I got word from Andrea at SIRIO that it would be best to shim .10 for 30% for breakin.
No problem..

Andrea reply.. wow he does not have much to do I suppose, ( just kidding sir)

Racing4EVO. Don't use Nova plug on this. It looks like you are serious about engine and it is a waste to use nova plug on sirio. You can but the thread and the seal is different on the button head.

Put some engine oil on the carb before sliding it in. When the carb hit the oring at the bottom, just slowly turn the carb, don't force from straight angle, it will go in easy. Force will break the seal

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Old 06-09-2005 | 12:02 PM
  #937  
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Kitracer- Unfortanately, I don't have access to Sirio plugs. I didn't seem to have a problem with Novarossi plugs, but it is always best to use plugs from the same manufacturer. Hopefully I can source some before a big race in 2 weeks time.

I'm heading to the track to break in my motor right now.
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Old 06-09-2005 | 03:13 PM
  #938  
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I used an RB #6 for breaking and it never went bad. I did shim to Andrea's recommendation though.

Just an FYI, here are the replies I was sent (regarding breakin with 30%):

Hello Mr. Torres,

I would check to see what Sirio recomends in the box (I'm not sure what
their instructions say). If I remember correctly, their engines are usually
set for 16% nitro but I know they shim them for more nitro so people don't
pop them straight away - If I had to guess, I think it would be fine with
20% and even 25% but going to 30% you may want to add a thin shim just to be
safe - definatly wouldn't be a bad idea to start especially when you are
breaking the engine in. Later, you can take the shim back out and keep and
eye on the glow plug (if it breaks or appears "frosted" then you know the
shimming for your nitro % is too low...

Josh

----------

The std set up of our EVO3 engine is made to use a percentage of 16-20% nitro fuel.
I suggest you in order to avoid problems to add o,1 mm shim at your engine for the brake in procedure.
After the first operation you can check about your need accordingly with your air pressure.
It's difficult to tell you the exactly set up of the engine as it depend from many factor.
Adding one shim you'll avoid demage during brake in.
Regards,

Andrea Rossi
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Old 06-10-2005 | 11:24 PM
  #939  
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Finished break in and I am absolutely floored by this engine. At 225 degrees, I am making WELL OVER 5 minutes on run time and the motor is ballistic. The bottom end is a lot stronger than the EVO 2 and the mid range is really powerful as well. There is a no hesitation from the bottom of the rev range to the top. Sirio is totally on par now with any Novarossi based engine. The motor can only get faster as I finish break in.
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Old 06-12-2005 | 09:39 PM
  #940  
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I broke in my new EVO 3 T5 on Sat, heat cycle twice for abt 3-4 mins, run WOT for the next 2 tanks off the ground. The next 3-5 tanks driving on the track at rich two stroke setting.

Run the engine in the 1st heat on a damp track, engine sound rich but didn't bother to tuned it. 2nd heat track was dry, manged to get it race tuned but broke the spur after 1 lap. 3rd heat, the engine run well, very smooth powerband and making good power but I can feel the engine still not fully break in and can go faster.

Qualified 6th in the A main, just before the final I leaned the low abt 15 mins (I did not touch it, it was at the default setting) and top abt 10 mins, the engine sound good and felt a little faster. Thru out the 45 mins final, the engine feel very consistent, powerband was smooth from low-mid-top. The speed is on pace with the other guys runninig 5 ports Collari EVO2, OS TZ, REX. I managed to finished 2nd behind my friend V1RRR powered by M.Collari EVO2. Runtime was abt 5.30mins and temp after the final was 104degC (220F)

Overall I am very pleased with the performance and I believe the engine will be stronger after it fully break in cos after the final I can still feel a little pinch at TDC.

I tot the EVO2 was good but the EVO3 is even better. Well done Sirio.

P.S - I was running OS P7 plug, Sirio 2611 pipe and O'donnell 25%. I also added 0.1mm shim.
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Old 06-13-2005 | 06:38 AM
  #941  
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I races my Evo3 for the first time yesterday and it was ballistic. I was easily pulling on a few of the fastest engines. Qualified 6th in the A, managed to hold 3rd for the first 6 min. and a freak pipe problemed caused me to give up after about 35 laps. But Man!!! this engine is balls out. I was only using the 3 port too.
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Old 06-13-2005 | 05:09 PM
  #942  
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Originally Posted by kidDynomite
I races my Evo3 for the first time yesterday and it was ballistic. I was easily pulling on a few of the fastest engines. Qualified 6th in the A, managed to hold 3rd for the first 6 min. and a freak pipe problemed caused me to give up after about 35 laps. But Man!!! this engine is balls out. I was only using the 3 port too.
I agree. I had motor on almost everyone. Did my personal best in qualifying with this engine. My only concern is that I have a leaky carburetor and the high operating temperature which was 270 F. I repeatedly checked the glowplug but it indication of engine tune was fine if not on the rich side.
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Old 06-13-2005 | 05:26 PM
  #943  
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Originally Posted by Racing4Evo
I agree. I had motor on almost everyone. Did my personal best in qualifying with this engine. My only concern is that I have a leaky carburetor and the high operating temperature which was 270 F. I repeatedly checked the glowplug but it indication of engine tune was fine if not on the rich side.
Peter, my 5-port ran hot too. I tried to tune it at 220F but it was rich, I leaned both top and bottom by about 3 hours and it was way better, but the motor came in at 280F. Nevertheless, it was idling fine and no sign of slowing at all.
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Old 06-13-2005 | 08:45 PM
  #944  
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Default evo 2 tuning

what is the trick to tuning the evo2, it runs fine but hott, and is not that strong on the bottom end? very fast top end
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Old 06-13-2005 | 10:13 PM
  #945  
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Default evo2

i have an evo2 as well, i think sirio engines run hot in general. my evo2 bottom-end is great.
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