I have a Sirio .12 TUP. I put a screw driver through the exhaust to keep the shaft from spining when installing a really tie clutch nut. I know that was really stupid. Anyway, I scratched the piston and sleeve. When starting the engine, it starts and then dies unless I give it a lot of gas. It ran okay for 1 tank of fuel. Then adjusting the setting can't keep the engine running. Did I killed the engine? If yes, where can I buy new piston and sleeve. Thanks.

Get some fine 400 to 600 wet sand paper and lightley roll it around the piston and see if you can smooth it out. On the cylinder sand just the area of the scratch . It really depends on how deep the scratch is. Also ck the carb for a air leak. And there isn't a single person in here that hasn't done something stupid so no worries

Here's a tool to hold the flywheel while you tighten the nut

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXGFK8&P=ML

and also

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHWN8&P=7

From the look of it, the piston and sleeve seems to roll too lose. After installing the glow plug, I tried to roll the flywheel with my finger, and there isn't much resistance. My old .12 CV seems to have more compression when I compared it. The Sirio is still new...

Will the sand paper method still work? If I take away the scratch, won't I make the piston and sleeve losen up even more? Sorry if I asking dumb questions.

I will still check for air leaks in the carb before spending $100 on new piston and sleeve.

Just did a search and found out about resizing piston and sleeve. Does resizing really work?

Well if it was warn to start with I would get another one Resizing does work but it's a temp fix and with that scratch wouldn't be worth it

Thanks for the suggestions. Hope I have don't have to end up getting a new engine.

I have a s12se adam drake edition, any suggestions on glow plugs. I try to use MC-59s, but sometimes aren't available. I use Trinity Monster Horsepower fuel with 25% Nitro. I'm talking about McCoy or OS plugs as Sirio or Novi plugs are readily availible at LHSs.

I'm starting to think this post is dead.

I was wondering a couple of things. I have another engine to break in, the last one I used Josh's method and it still going strong. But I just re-read his instructions and I'm not sure if the beginning WOT process was on the box or on the ground. The first time I did it, I did the whole proceedure on the ground (except the initial warm up blimps). It was so rich it really didn't go to fast, but it had load and cool air. Now I'm not sure if I'm actually doing this right anymore.

Also. Does any one know the stock needle settings?

According to Trinity, the carbs in Sirios are flow tested at the factory and each one has a different initial setting. I'm betting 3-4 turns out would be a good place start.

Thanks, Bud!

EVO3, Anyone know where I can get a new one at a decent price?

Hi,

I've seen them floating round on ebay for $199 nib

I know this is a little late, but yes, resizing does work. I had a CV-R resized, and it's better than new. You have to go through break-in again, but use the heatcycle method and you'll be good as gold. I know OSRocket and Rayaracing do resizing, and they also will polish out small blemishes in the cylinder. I have used Rayaracing and he does a very good job.

Another dead thread?