I'm running the 4btt in my xb9. Plenty of bottom end power! I recommend getting your 4btt from Monty. I highly encourage you to get his bench break in service as it cuts break in time in half! At that point all you'll need to do is run the engine at 190-210 degree's for around 2000cc of fuel. 15ish tanks. Then you can start to race tune. It took my engine around 2 gallons to drop its nuts...let me tell you...you'll have MORE then enough power.

pick your poison , they are both great engines

i also offer a fusion X3 lightning worth looking at

all three great engines

check stuff out at HES link below

Would you say one fits my criteria better than the other? I drove a plus 21
4-c team today and was pleased with it, but it seems to be lacking in top end compared to my v spec. Keep in mind my v spec had just over three gallons on it and his had roughly one.

Like Monty said pick one and be good to go. I havn't run up against a v-spec in the a long straight to know the drag race effect. But my Btt (FM except ceramics) has plenty of rip to clear short run up jumps and holds its own against all other motors in the turns (even was able to dive in under a guy driving a B2 and pull him out of the corner). mine still hasn't dropped its nuts yet, but should very soon as I am just at 2 gallons after this weekend. oh and by the way fuel milage is 2nd to none. I was pushing had with a 7.5 insert this weekend and pitted at about 9:30 minutes with room to spare.
Get the bench break in, worth every penny.

How do you get the dents out? What is the antifreeze bath?

Thanks...

plug all holes in pipe and fill with water and put in the freezer for about 3 hrs. Antifreeze bath cleans all the baked on oil and dirt off the outside and cleans the inside of the pipe.

It souds like you submerge the pipe in antifreeze and just let it sit.....Is that right? Obviously you can inspect the outside but how long does it take to clean out the inside of the pipe?

Thanks again

You get a crockpot fill it with antifreeze and cook on high for about 12-24 hours depending on how dirty the pipe is. When you pull it out run some water and nitro cleaner through it, wipe down the outside and go to the auto parts store and get some aluminum polish and polish it up and it will be darn near close to new again. If you have a dremmel tool with a buffing attachment use it and you will get a better shine.

that would be the ticket, just don't plan on using the crockpot again for cooking. I used one of the small ones but part of the pipe had to stick out of the lid. I'm waiting for either a yard sale or a sale to get one large enough to do my pipes in the 12 - 24 hours, not flush the pipe and put it back in for another 12 to 24 hours. All the baked on crud will wipe off with a towel. all the little stuff around the header attachement point will come off sooooo easy.

I really don't care about how the outside looks all that much but I still polish it. Cleaning the inside is what counts, it will bring a pipe back to life. The oils in our fuel will eventually build up around the baffle and start to clog the holes. Cleaning the pipe will bring it back to life and it won't feel "soft" any more. The build up happens over such a long amount of time the performance loss isn't really noticed unless you run a freshly cleaned or new pipe back to back with your old crusty one.

as for freezing, I put a small screw in the pressure line and put a piece of fuel tubing over it so it doesn't leak. The outlet can me covered or pluged with a stopper, and I use seran wrap or press and seal with a rubber band around the header connection point. That way when the water freezes and expands it will pop the dents out and then push through the seran wrap at the end instead of blowing out the seam at the chamber.

package has arrived monty... the again for everything

sweeet , thanks for the update bro

Monty,
I put a zip tie on the carb side of the slide boot and ran 3 tanks back to back to back without a problem. So either I had a very small leak that showed up on Saturday and a zip tie fixed it (doubtful, but strangers things have happened) but I also switched back to carbon shoes and the idle issue went away. I was also running carbon shoes last week when the motor ran perfect. I'm not sure why running aluminum shoes would make for a crazy idle but it did. Anybody else ever have something similar happen? By the way the aluminum shoes were m2c's made for the AE flywheel. Time to order up some AE rtr carbon shoes.

I also think I'm having clutch issues. Last two races I had some kinda bog out of corners. Using all aluminum as well, with 1.0 springs. Think I'll try one carbon and all 1.1 and find out how long things last. LoL.

My idle issues were that it would high idle for some stops and idle regular for others even at 5 turns out from bottom on LSN. It was really weird, that why I was thinking an air leak and Monty suggested checking the boot and pinch bolt. Its all good for now...just need it to drop its nuts now

Comp Heater In Phoenix already scheduled for delivery tomorrow. Just in time for the race!!! Thanx again Monty for your services, and answering my texts. The industry is real fortunate to have guys like you around.