22LikesHoustons Engine Service H.E.S.
05-13-2009 | 07:41 AM
#496
Tech Champion
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 5,333
From: Peoria AZ
Douglas
Do you use a Flaat Head screwdriver to force the fywheel to rotate when its Pinched, or just yer hands???
Sounds alot like one of my P5X... man i sspent an hour just getting it to run it was soooooo tight.
Stav
Do you use a Flaat Head screwdriver to force the fywheel to rotate when its Pinched, or just yer hands???
Sounds alot like one of my P5X... man i sspent an hour just getting it to run it was soooooo tight.
Stav
05-13-2009 | 08:10 AM
#497
Tech Adept
iTrader: (10)
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 249
From: Plano
Hey Losiracer, try to gently get the piston back down without stretching the rod and then next time you start it use the heat gun to get it loose so the piston does not get stuck. Right now when the piston/sleeve are green it will always get stuck, so don't even try to turn it over cold. I have had my +4 for a gallon now and not once have I tried to force it over cold, and every start has been pre-heated.
It is completely normal for it to be that stiff right now, just don't force it.
It is completely normal for it to be that stiff right now, just don't force it.
05-13-2009 | 08:50 AM
#498
monty i have a problem...
my dad has been breakin in his +4. hes been idleing on the bench keepin temps about 200...
tonight i guess he couldnt get them past 180. i told him to put alum foil on the head but watch the temps. temps got to 220 so he richened it up then it died. now it wont turn over. he called me while i was at work and didnt know...
so i tore it apart when i got home expecting a rod to be broke or something because the piston wont move. i opened it and everythin was fine. i heated it up got the piston down and moved it back up and it will only go about 3/4ths of the way up before it hits the pinch and wont move past the pinch. so i put everythin back together tried movin the piston and i guess it went back to the pinch. i heated it for a good min and the piston still wont move. i can tear it apart again and move it down by pushin the piston like i did the first time but there has to be something wrong. any ideas?? you can reply here or call me 480 277 4177
EDIT: i tried puttin a new collet on the crank because the one on there was just free on the crank. and the new one doesnt have a tight fit either, when i put the flywheel on it seemed like it didnt go back far enough either.
my dad has been breakin in his +4. hes been idleing on the bench keepin temps about 200...
tonight i guess he couldnt get them past 180. i told him to put alum foil on the head but watch the temps. temps got to 220 so he richened it up then it died. now it wont turn over. he called me while i was at work and didnt know...
so i tore it apart when i got home expecting a rod to be broke or something because the piston wont move. i opened it and everythin was fine. i heated it up got the piston down and moved it back up and it will only go about 3/4ths of the way up before it hits the pinch and wont move past the pinch. so i put everythin back together tried movin the piston and i guess it went back to the pinch. i heated it for a good min and the piston still wont move. i can tear it apart again and move it down by pushin the piston like i did the first time but there has to be something wrong. any ideas?? you can reply here or call me 480 277 4177
EDIT: i tried puttin a new collet on the crank because the one on there was just free on the crank. and the new one doesnt have a tight fit either, when i put the flywheel on it seemed like it didnt go back far enough either.
05-13-2009 | 08:53 AM
#499
Hey Losiracer, try to gently get the piston back down without stretching the rod and then next time you start it use the heat gun to get it loose so the piston does not get stuck. Right now when the piston/sleeve are green it will always get stuck, so don't even try to turn it over cold. I have had my +4 for a gallon now and not once have I tried to force it over cold, and every start has been pre-heated.
It is completely normal for it to be that stiff right now, just don't force it.
It is completely normal for it to be that stiff right now, just don't force it.
losi racer , whats your name ? i am pretty sure i met you down there but dont recall for sure .
get my number from stav and call me if you want
05-13-2009 | 08:57 AM
#500
Tech Regular
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 293
From: Pennsauken, NJ
probably the same as the engine i just got back from a customer who just tried to runin his toro with two tanks of nitrotane (thats all he got through it until this happened)he got from H.E.S. and the piston/sleeve were so gummed up with a substance that was very hard to remove . i ended up cleaning the engine thoroughly and running the engine in with byrons gen2 , no problem whatsoever .
05-13-2009 | 09:05 AM
#501
Plus4 Question
Monty, picking up my Plus4 Friday. From what I've read so far they come shimmed for 30% out of the box correct? I run Byrons 25/9 Pro Driver, I plan on leaving the shims as is for the first gallon so I don't stress the rod and crank pin too much. I should remove one after correct?
Now which plugs work best? I'm on the east coast so it's hot and humid here in the summer time, I'd guess on average 85-95 degrees 60-80% humidity.
How about clutching for this engine? 1.0 springs? I'm guessing this thing has some good bottom so I can clutch it a little lighter than I have my 7 port GO (1.1's)
Anything else I should know about this mill?
Thanks for you help!
Now which plugs work best? I'm on the east coast so it's hot and humid here in the summer time, I'd guess on average 85-95 degrees 60-80% humidity.
How about clutching for this engine? 1.0 springs? I'm guessing this thing has some good bottom so I can clutch it a little lighter than I have my 7 port GO (1.1's)
Anything else I should know about this mill?
Thanks for you help!
05-13-2009 | 09:06 AM
#502
i can still get you going if you would like a plus 4
thanks ,
monty
05-13-2009 | 09:10 AM
#503
Monty, picking up my Plus4 Friday. From what I've read so far they come shimmed for 30% out of the box correct? I run Byrons 25/9 Pro Driver, I plan on leaving the shims as is for the first gallon so I don't stress the rod and crank pin too much. I should remove one after correct?
Now which plugs work best? I'm on the east coast so it's hot and humid here in the summer time, I'd guess on average 85-95 degrees 60-80% humidity.
How about clutching for this engine? 1.0 springs? I'm guessing this thing has some good bottom so I can clutch it a little lighter than I have my 7 port GO (1.1's)
Anything else I should know about this mill?
Thanks for you help!
Now which plugs work best? I'm on the east coast so it's hot and humid here in the summer time, I'd guess on average 85-95 degrees 60-80% humidity.
How about clutching for this engine? 1.0 springs? I'm guessing this thing has some good bottom so I can clutch it a little lighter than I have my 7 port GO (1.1's)
Anything else I should know about this mill?
Thanks for you help!
as far as clutching and gearing on the rc8 i really couldn't tell ya . those things are goofy , i run the blue kyosho alu. shoes w/ 1.0 and sometimes .95 springs in my st-rr and mp-9 and they are definitely not underpowered .
monty
the shimming will be just fine with 25% nitro ,your engine is at .80mm right now and i would say to leave it and either run 25% but would actually recommend running 30%
Last edited by houston; 05-13-2009 at 10:49 AM.
05-13-2009 | 09:19 AM
#504
if you want turbo , try the odo97t or odo77t , for standard odo77 or mccoy mc8
as far as clutching and gearing on the rc8 i really couldn't tell ya . those things are goofy , i run the blue kyosho alu. shoes w/ 1.0 and sometimes .95 springs in my st-rr and mp-9 and they are definitely not underpowered .
monty
as far as clutching and gearing on the rc8 i really couldn't tell ya . those things are goofy , i run the blue kyosho alu. shoes w/ 1.0 and sometimes .95 springs in my st-rr and mp-9 and they are definitely not underpowered .
monty
Thanks bro, how about the shim question?
05-13-2009 | 09:50 AM
#506
A refresher please. I have a Plus 21-5 and Plus 21-5(K) both standard plug versions. I had the carbs out of balance for most of their 4-5 gallon life, so I'll need to refresh the engines.
Do I remember correctly that the 7-port piston/sleeve sets will drop in?
Do I remember correctly that the 7-port piston/sleeve sets will drop in?
05-13-2009 | 09:54 AM
#507
Tech Initiate
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 22
From: Houston, TX
Hi All,
This is my very first post and I'm sure is a pure newb question. Excuse me if this has been addressed in another post(s).
I haven't ran my revo 3.3 for a while(about 6 months). When trying to start the motor it doesn't 'turn' that much. I was wondering what I can do to 'loosen' up the engine. Or if I need to buy a whole new one. The truck is completely stock also.
Frank
This is my very first post and I'm sure is a pure newb question. Excuse me if this has been addressed in another post(s).
I haven't ran my revo 3.3 for a while(about 6 months). When trying to start the motor it doesn't 'turn' that much. I was wondering what I can do to 'loosen' up the engine. Or if I need to buy a whole new one. The truck is completely stock also.
Frank
05-13-2009 | 09:58 AM
#508
05-13-2009 | 10:50 AM
#510