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Old 08-30-2010 | 09:44 PM
  #3886  
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Originally Posted by manson98
Ya Monty I know they are not obligated to do anything but man I love these motors and don't really want to switch and I won't be demanding I have 2 more plus 4s right now but this was on my new Team plus 4. So really hate to think I may have a 500 dollar plus 4. Because I need this motor and i paid 330 for it and mightcost me another 200 to get it fixed. Thanks will let you know if I hear anything.
a team for 330$ wha wha wha what

keep me posted , my email is [email protected]

i will talk to jim , email me all your info

there are problems with every manufacturer at some point in time , how they get dealt with is the true defining factor of the company . i am fairly influential in many aspects of how warranty gets dealt with and will probably become a warranty service repair shop in the usa for nova before long . i try to handle myself in a respectful manner in the limelight but there are always those who love to push buttons


we will get it taken care of somehow someway

just to reiterate , most engine companies will not warranty any nitro engine if it has been disassembled
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Old 08-30-2010 | 10:04 PM
  #3887  
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Hey Monty,

I just attending the Sprucewood Invitational this past weekend with very disappointing finish (last overall) out of 48 Nitro Buggy racers. It was an awesome event with a ton of awesome people and at the end of the day the event was for charity so all was good but for me it was a disappointing race. I am running a new Mugen MBX-6 with the stock 13 tooth pinion and stock 1.0 clutch springs, I have about 3 gallons threw the engine on the buggy and up till this weekend have never had any issues with the engine at all. Here is the issue, I run a Novarossi Toro Nero Team on Byrons Race 2500 25% nitro fuel with the engine shimmed to .7, I oil and change my air filter after each run. I started each qualifier and after a few laps the engine would flame out....then after steering arm issues (unrelated) and was unable to finish any qualifiers and had to start in the rear of the bottom main (F). Then during the Main I got off to a solid start and pulled out to the front after about half a lap, I started to pull away when I thought (rookie mistake) the announcer called for a restart (when he didn't) so everyone got by me and when I realized the mistake I made and went to get back on it the engine died. My pitman then ran and restarted me and I was off again with a solid charge back to the front only to died again at the end of the long straight? this was just out of the blue and then after getting restarted I didn't get even 30 feet from the pits when it died again?

What I did today in an effort to get to the bottom of this:
1-Took the engine completely apart including the carb.
2-Found no issues inside the sleeve or piston(all smooth and shinny).
3-Found no tares in the o-rings in the carb.
4-Once reassembled I attempted to pressurize the crankcase to see if I was loosing threw the front bearing(no issue found.
5-Once back together I I put the carb settings back to factory and went back to the track, I started with the Nova #6 plug (same issue) then a #5 and #7 also with the same results and then I tried the O'Donnell plugs that you had recommended before (77Tand 97T) both gave the same results so I am now stumped and don't know what to try next?

Thanks for your time and help.

Sean
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Old 08-30-2010 | 10:19 PM
  #3888  
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Originally Posted by BLKNOTCH
Hey Monty,

I just attending the Sprucewood Invitational this past weekend with very disappointing finish (last overall) out of 48 Nitro Buggy racers. It was an awesome event with a ton of awesome people and at the end of the day the event was for charity so all was good but for me it was a disappointing race. I am running a new Mugen MBX-6 with the stock 13 tooth pinion and stock 1.0 clutch springs, I have about 3 gallons threw the engine on the buggy and up till this weekend have never had any issues with the engine at all. Here is the issue, I run a Novarossi Toro Nero Team on Byrons Race 2500 25% nitro fuel with the engine shimmed to .7, I oil and change my air filter after each run. I started each qualifier and after a few laps the engine would flame out....then after steering arm issues (unrelated) and was unable to finish any qualifiers and had to start in the rear of the bottom main (F). Then during the Main I got off to a solid start and pulled out to the front after about half a lap, I started to pull away when I thought (rookie mistake) the announcer called for a restart (when he didn't) so everyone got by me and when I realized the mistake I made and went to get back on it the engine died. My pitman then ran and restarted me and I was off again with a solid charge back to the front only to died again at the end of the long straight? this was just out of the blue and then after getting restarted I didn't get even 30 feet from the pits when it died again?

What I did today in an effort to get to the bottom of this:
1-Took the engine completely apart including the carb.
2-Found no issues inside the sleeve or piston(all smooth and shinny).
3-Found no tares in the o-rings in the carb.
4-Once reassembled I attempted to pressurize the crankcase to see if I was loosing threw the front bearing(no issue found.
5-Once back together I I put the carb settings back to factory and went back to the track, I started with the Nova #6 plug (same issue) then a #5 and #7 also with the same results and then I tried the O'Donnell plugs that you had recommended before (77Tand 97T) both gave the same results so I am now stumped and don't know what to try next?

Thanks for your time and help.

Sean
Did you try a different engine yet? Doubt its the engine , more than likely the tank , mugen tanks have a few internal issues . I get dozens of calls a week with mugen tank issues well guys that think the engines are at fault but it turns out to be the tank .
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Old 08-30-2010 | 10:27 PM
  #3889  
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Originally Posted by houston
Did you try a different engine yet? Doubt its the engine , more than likely the tank , mugen tanks have a few internal issues . I get dozens of calls a week with mugen tank issues well guys that think the engines are at fault but it turns out to be the tank .
No I have not tried another engine, I also don't think it is the engine. wow I will take the tank out tomorrow morning first thing, is there anything I should look for exactly or just the obvious cracks? I was also thinking clutch but I will report back with my findings in the morning on this one(just got back tonight after a 7 hour drive home LOL)

Thanks Monty

Sean
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Old 08-30-2010 | 10:55 PM
  #3890  
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Originally Posted by BLKNOTCH
No I have not tried another engine, I also don't think it is the engine. wow I will take the tank out tomorrow morning first thing, is there anything I should look for exactly or just the obvious cracks? I was also thinking clutch but I will report back with my findings in the morning on this one(just got back tonight after a 7 hour drive home LOL)

Thanks Monty

Sean
There is. An issue with the stone filter on the inside of the tank cracking on the top where it meets with the plastic and causes some SERIOUS tuning issues .


And a toro nero in a buggy ? Wtf are you thinking ? holy smokes !!!
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Old 08-31-2010 | 09:21 AM
  #3891  
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OK I took the tank out this morning and gave it a big cleaning, I was unable to find any flaws in the tank. I also placed the tank in the sink under water while blowing in threw the tank and plugging the exit hole with only a few very small bubbles coming out threw the tank cap(not constant) here are some pics.







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Old 08-31-2010 | 10:04 AM
  #3892  
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Make sure the fuel filter is not leaking too. One thing to note is if the crack does not show up until tank heats up and the plastic expands.
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Old 08-31-2010 | 10:36 AM
  #3893  
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Buddy of mine Gary F took the mugen tank...plugged the main outlet, cut out some baffles, Drilled a hole and made a Mugen clunk tank......solved a couple issues he was having.
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Old 08-31-2010 | 11:42 AM
  #3894  
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Originally Posted by revo61
Make sure the fuel filter is not leaking too. One thing to note is if the crack does not show up until tank heats up and the plastic expands.
OK I am just going to order another Tank to be sure, or another idea would be to run my engine in my buddies MBX-6.

Thanks
Sean
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Old 08-31-2010 | 12:31 PM
  #3895  
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News flash-----------You can clearly see the crack in the top front edge of the fuel tank and there is another on the bottom edge, you can feel the crack when you run your nail along it so I am sure when the plastic gets hot it would then seperate and then BAM the issues start. Makes sense why it took a few laps to start to mess up, also makes sense why on the box after checking things over everything seemed fine.


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Old 08-31-2010 | 12:53 PM
  #3896  
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What's the little piece of wire on the spring's doing ?
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Old 08-31-2010 | 01:01 PM
  #3897  
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Originally Posted by houston


And a toro nero in a buggy ? Wtf are you thinking ? holy smokes !!!
I ran a Toro in my buggy and loved it. I ran stock D8 at the time so the extra power helped w/ the extra weight.
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Old 08-31-2010 | 01:01 PM
  #3898  
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Originally Posted by Integra
What's the little piece of wire on the spring's doing ?
I had a thin wire wrapped around the spring and then around the fuel tubbing to keep it from resting on the pipe.


I have ordered a new tank but is there any trick or repair that can be done to this tank to allow it to be a solid spare?

Sean
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Old 08-31-2010 | 01:15 PM
  #3899  
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Originally Posted by BLKNOTCH
I had a thin wire wrapped around the spring and then around the fuel tubbing to keep it from resting on the pipe.


I have ordered a new tank but is there any trick or repair that can be done to this tank to allow it to be a solid spare?

Sean

we watched a guy install a new tank only to have the same tuning issues as the tank he removed...he ended up installing a clunk in the tank , after that his tuning issues vanished....the Mugen tanks are definitely problematic , and even a brand new tank can have the same issues...
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Old 08-31-2010 | 04:47 PM
  #3900  
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Originally Posted by Maximo
we watched a guy install a new tank only to have the same tuning issues as the tank he removed...he ended up installing a clunk in the tank , after that his tuning issues vanished....the Mugen tanks are definitely problematic , and even a brand new tank can have the same issues...
exactly

its a hit or miss situation

that clunk idea has worked out great for 6 or 7 guys that it has been suggested too that i know
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