Whats the best pipe and header for a 21-7.small track and in a 8ight buggy,thanks kenny

i would try a 9853 w/ 41021 or ofna 053 pipeset with 8mm restrictor , runtimes on indoor tracks are usually better anyway .

if you want it to scream then use a 86 based pipe

Thanks alot

want the 86 hurt the bottom to much.

use the 86 based pipes on your larger tracks , doesn't really hurt the bottom so much as it shifts the powerband a little further into the engines upper rpm . be careful , it will have one hellacious powerband effect with that engine fun though

do 3 heat cycles within the first tank up to 210 degrees (2 min. intervals),at idle on stand? yes run it around gently at 210-230 (monitoring temps frequently ) careful not to let the engine get into its powerband about 1 full tank at a time , let it cool , do this for 3 tanks (cooling in between tanks), quarter throttle or so with short blips..not high?slow pulls on the throttle in 30-40ft bursts richen the needles a bit and run it about 180 on the track for 3 straight tanks monitoring temps frequently leaning it out until you can start to feel the powerband (check the plug at this point and let it cool down),what am I looking for exactly on the plugmake sure the plug still glows and looks new, if it looks all distorted pull it out as you dont want a plug filament to go through the engine go back out on the track,(lean out slowly) when you get it tuned in to where its not totally screaming but you have enough power to make the jumps with a slight bog at full throttle and runs at about 230 , let it cool . go out and run the rest of the gallon til the power comes up and the temp drops instantly (i call it "dropping its nuts"). this process sometimes takes more than a full gallon . use a heat gun to heat to 200 before you start at each step

hope this helps ya , pretty detailed

monty

do it just like i said and you will have great success[/quote]

Perfect timing on that last post Monty

Yessir.....cant wait man!!!!

Hi Monty,
I was wondering, you said if you over tighten the head bolts you can warp the case. Just how tight should they be? I got that Hudy screwdriver for the Novarossi head bolts you were showing me, very sweet.

Thanks for the info.

kind of hard to describe without some kind of in./lb. spec. over the internet . just dont reef the holy begeezez out of them and tighten them in a cross pattern evenly .

i will get the orings and all the goodies gathered up as quick as i can Jack .

how about factory crab settings for a 21-7 and whats the best glow plug

i hope your engine doesnt have crabs


4 turns out hsn , 3.5 turns out on lsn w/ 1.5mm idle gap

standard glow plug odo77 or 99
mccoy mc8

Following your advice to usp45 in the plus 4 thread here I am.Flush the lapping compound before breakin of not? I usually remove back plate, fill with fuel,swoosh & dump a few times before breakin.More dissasembly needed or no? I also went back & found casey's idle screw spec but Dont know if I'm comfortable with that outside measurement whats the slide gap at,inside the carb? Thanks for the help.

Monty, was running the 528 tonight and noticed fuel coming from where the button is bolted to the crank case. What do I need to do to fix that?