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Old 08-08-2010 | 07:37 PM
  #3646  
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Originally Posted by Dirtdobber
Got a question. Ran my FMS again today with the 8mm venturi. I started it up with a slightly richened needle from last run. The engine would not clear out and would backfire at wot. I leaned high speed about two hours and engine started running great. After about half tank of fuel I richened the low speed needle about one hour and did not change the high speed needle. My engine again started sounding loaded up and backfiring. I closed the low speed needle back and again engine started running good. Would this be caused by a bad glow plug? Also, is there a rule of thumb on which glow plug to use? I'm in Alabama where the temps are 90-100 and the humidity is always 50% or more. Maybe suggestions going from day time to evening. I use 25% nitro w/ .7mm shimming. Have been using 97t or 77t odonnell plug. Thanks

the tune is very sensitive so little changes affect running would be my guess... never ran my FMS so can't really say.... if its running great why change the tune? Just wanted to know...
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Old 08-08-2010 | 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by kgombe
i will leave you and this discussion alone.. but if you want to talk about chronology you made the assumption.. or mis interpret what i said for asking for more bottom end... thats where this thing all started... with the other guys getting on here and stating what they stated... cause no one asked on how to gain more bottom end....

simply put... you mis read or mis interpret thats what caused all off this lets no forget that... my friend
I know I misread initially..I stated that many many posts ago, and apologized !...but some of you just wont let it die ! Hows the fishing out there ?
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Old 08-08-2010 | 08:09 PM
  #3648  
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Questions?? RB Mods engine slick

Monty, I know you recomend RB Mods ARO, have you or anybody else tried or used RB Mods engine slick? do you think it would provide the protection they are claiming? it sure sounds good!!
http://rbmods.net/rbshop/index.php?t...product_id=131
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Old 08-08-2010 | 08:13 PM
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i used it on and old 3.3 i had back in the days... and it worked great....
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Old 08-08-2010 | 08:24 PM
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do you apply it once or every time you go racing/driving?did it really prolong the engine life?
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Old 08-08-2010 | 08:30 PM
  #3651  
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i applied it for 1 first tank on the race day.. the engine rand great and temps were low for about 1.5 gallons.. this was a 3.3 that had at least 4 or 5 gallons on it and it was pretty much on its last leg.. it started running a bit weak.. but with this it ran great for another 1.5 to 2.. almost like new... the it finally gave in.... .. to say prolong engine life on the big blocks and engines like the Novas that are built with good materials... its kind of hard to say... cause i get around 7 - 8 gallons on them then i change the rod and re pinch.. but use teh same bearings
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Old 08-08-2010 | 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by kgombe
the tune is very sensitive so little changes affect running would be my guess... never ran my FMS so can't really say.... if its running great why change the tune? Just wanted to know...
My first race with it I was chasing my tune all day with the 6.5mm venturi. I put the 8mm venturi in and was "starting over" with the tune. While running today, I felt like the low end might have been slightly lean. Just trying to pick everyone's brain on tuning this beast. My last .21 was a RB S5, so I'm going from mild to wild.
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Old 08-08-2010 | 08:43 PM
  #3653  
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try teh 7mm or 7.5.. thats what i found easy to tune on my novas so far...
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Old 08-08-2010 | 08:44 PM
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I was wondering, 'cause I'll be receiving a moded FMS from Monty pretty soon and sure would like it to last a gooooood long time
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Old 08-08-2010 | 08:49 PM
  #3655  
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Originally Posted by rotarynut
I was wondering, 'cause I'll be receiving a moded FMS from Monty pretty soon and sure would like it to last a gooooood long time
its not really to be used on new engines .. unless he changed the formula... after the engine has lost its metal pinch you can start to use it
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Old 08-08-2010 | 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Dirtdobber
My first race with it I was chasing my tune all day with the 6.5mm venturi. I put the 8mm venturi in and was "starting over" with the tune. While running today, I felt like the low end might have been slightly lean. Just trying to pick everyone's brain on tuning this beast. My last .21 was a RB S5, so I'm going from mild to wild.

I got over eight gallons on my FMS. How many gallons do you have on yours?
It take about two gallons before the engine is fully broken-in and holds a tune. I found my FMS likes only two pipes the 9901 and the 9886 with the 41021 manifold. Once broken-in I run a cold plug like a 99t. I run my FMS in a buugy.
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Old 08-08-2010 | 09:01 PM
  #3657  
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Questions??

Oh yeah for sure I would use it once it was broken in, otherwise it would prob never break in BTW is anybody using a 2084ss pipe on their FMS with 41021 header? I've read that the 2084ss is like a 9853ss only that it gives you a little better top end, is this true?
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Old 08-08-2010 | 09:26 PM
  #3658  
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FMS works very well with 2084ss/41021 or 9853ss

to the guy running 25% , what's wrong with 30% ?

Make sure and check your deck heighth , that's usually the culprit on the spittin and sputterin crap .

The other culprit I have seen cause that is bad fuel

Sometimes a glow plug but not usually the case

I would recommend to shim at .65mm if using 25% using a medium medium hot plug such as 97t or 87t

And above all enjoy your rc car engine
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Old 08-09-2010 | 01:20 AM
  #3659  
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Guys

as promised a little report on my N21R's first race sunday.

I had it tuned by the local Guru first. Header/pipe 41030/9901. NR#6, 25% fuel, 1.0mm springs + alum 3shoe (stock mbx6 clutch)

Felt okayish on the track during practice, low-end pretty weak but engine still below the 1-gallon mark.

Engine collapses after 5mn -> reopen HSN a bit, becomes much more consistent.

going to 1.1mm springs -> pick up a bit of low-end grunt

and the grand finale: Local guru installs full 2057 exhaust while I was marshalling, just for kicks, without telling me: wow NOW I have a real engine, he only told me after the 3rd main (club racing - 3x5mn qual + 3x15mn mains).

Local guru's explanation: 41030 header curvature radius is way too narrow and screws up the acoustics. Next steps: try the 9901 with the "stock" 41021 header which is a crappy fit in the MBX6... well, one can't have it all I guess. One of the local track hotshots also run N21R + 41021 + 9901 and his mill is in the top decile of all local racers...

Any opinions on whether the header's curvature can really choke a mill like supposed?

Thanks

Paul
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Old 08-09-2010 | 04:39 PM
  #3660  
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Originally Posted by houston
FMS works very well with 2084ss/41021 or 9853ss

to the guy running 25% , what's wrong with 30% ?

Make sure and check your deck heighth , that's usually the culprit on the spittin and sputterin crap .

The other culprit I have seen cause that is bad fuel

Sometimes a glow plug but not usually the case

I would recommend to shim at .65mm if using 25% using a medium medium hot plug such as 97t or 87t

And above all enjoy your rc car engine

Mine's a 2009 batch and shimmed for 25% max nitro. I figured since its supposed to be too much for buggy, I could easily get by with 20-25 percent nitro. And I'm too cheap to order shims:. I got about 2.5 gallons through it right now. Using rb 9886 pipe with jp4 header. I also have jp4 pipe and rb 9863 pipe.
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