Art is in the heart. Not some crap on the wall When my pulse starts racing, that's art. I'll hold out for the FMS. I was able to get 11 minutes that weekend.

Hi.

Nitro needs A LOT more oxygen to explode compared to methanol. That is why you have to lean the HSN, when you eg. go from 25% nitro fuel to 16%.

An engine will always use X amount of oxygen at a certain RPM, no matter what fuel you use (more nitro gives no more RPM's). That is why you have to mix more high nitro percent fuel with the oxygen, to make it explode.

RB makes 45% fuel and says it will make longer runtimes compared to lower nitro percents. The only reason why that should be true is, that the fuel will make a more powerfull engine, where you don't have to open the throttle as much as with less nitro fuel, to get the same power...

I would go for less nitro (25% instead of 30%). Your engine will last longer and you save a lot of money.

Cheers

going out of town for a few days , be back saturday night . probably check in on the mobile every so often guys .

thanks ,
monty

Hey Hotrod get in touch with me when you can with a little update

I'll get to it tonight matt

Great; mostly just wanted to know that you got it

LMK how it goes

never have any problems with usps

international postage can be a little silly sometimes but its the nature of the beast

actually nitro needs 1/7th the amount of O2 to burn then methanol..... that is why Nitro has so much more capacity to make power..... even tho nitro actually has half the BTU's of methanol you can burn so much more nitro that you end up making more power... As you say an engines O2 intake is pretty much fixxed, so the only way you can make more power is find a fuel that requires the least amount of O2 to combust........

Amen to that, Maximo.
Well writen, and we have got an another view to the question
Personal I have a hard time finding out why you will need all that nitro in a off-road car: If you haven't got a bluegroove or carpet track, you end up making a lot of wheelspin with all that nitro. Go down in nitro, and always use hard springs in the clutch. If you have too much wheelspin, use a bigger bell (and gain even longer runtimes). If the gearing now is too high, and the engine doesn´t come up in max. RPM at the end of the straight, you should use a shorter header to reduce the bottom power, and stick to the first bell.

Interesting view ?

Hi Monty

Wouldn't you be a fool, if you tamed your engine power in a flaccid clutch, if you could translate the power into more topspeed and visa versa???

Please convince me that I'm wrong

i understand the mechanics of a clutch and how to tune the clutch to track conditions lil bror .

the interesting part is the gearing and how final rollout (gear ratio) effects the engine and its power production . the 32 pitch gears we use for 1/8th scale have a pretty broad spread from one gear to the next so it is a little harder to dial in then a 10th scale is . a lot of thought has been put in to the gear ratios on the 8th scale vehicles before they have been released to the public and is usually pretty darn good some buggys have different ring/pinion gear ratios (associated uses truggy gears) and that lets you use large clutch bells with more gears on them , good concept? seems to work fairly well


we are all fools

i for one would love to tap into the vast amount of friction materials that are out there and apply them to our rc vehicle clutch shoes impulse rc

two cents worth and just a ramble

Hey bud...we ran the "special" tuned Houston engine again today....and 10 minutes to a tank every time..we can go 11 with it if need to...she is coming around...thanks again

good to hear Wes!!

i hope it lasts you guys a long time!!

what up monty
ran your motor in buggy today 11:44 on a tank
tried the 9886 with 21 header that thing is a beast compared to 9901
it pulls everywhere