Very true Chris, I have a Killer 9, and have used the RB 2045 with the RB192 header, works very well, much better than an 086, tried that pipe, it didn't seem to let it breath t
Like the 2045, 086 felt restrictive. Just my opinion.

Hi, May i know where can i get this 01143-WS7 piston and sleeve?

Guys,
how much runtime are you getting and with which venturi in a F11 in a truggy? I will be running it with a 2087 Tuned Pipe w/192mm Manifold. I am looking for more then 10 minutes if possible. I will probably doing the break in process this w-e.

Thanks
J-F

For the K10 what are the factory needle settings to start to tune from? flush HSN, flush LSN? trying to get a base line before heading to the track saturday.

Thanks,
Nick

If you have the box it came in, with the detailed engine page, it should be on there.

I didn't get the box or paper work with the motor, it was only broken in before I got it.

4 turns out from the bottom on the hi and low needles.
Do yourself a big favor and take the time to dial the engine
in before going to the track.

Got the K10 pretty close tonight (thanks Rageworks for the factory settings) It screams like a raped ape with the 9901 pipe. Only problem I am getting is that the LSN needle wants to be very lean. Once the motor is brought to idle from a high speed pass the idle comes down to a nice steady rpm and doesn't change for a good 15 to 20 seconds. But if i give it throttle from idle it loads up very bad lot of smoke and won't clear out for aprox 60 to 75 feet. Doesn't matter if its full throttle, 1/2 throttle, or 1/4 throttle. Once it clears out the top end is great with a lite trail of smoke (hard to see as it was getting dark). Coming off a turn or from a short stop, 1 to 2 seconds, the motor cleans out well and runs great. Any stops from 5 to 10 seconds it loads up bad and wont clear out. Temps were ranging from 205 to 214 on the second tank of gas.
I am running the following:
RC8B 1.1 springs with carbon shoes. Stock gearing.
Byrons 25% gen 2 with 11% lube
Motor is just past teh one gallon mark
RB 1051-5 (CP-02) Plug (brand new) Checked plug after 2 hard tanks, coil is still shiny and new.
Nova 9901 Pipe
HSN 3 1/4 out from closed
LSN 2 out from closed
idle stop is .7 to .8 mm, a little large I could probably bring it down to about .6mm
8mm venturi
approx 8 min 30 sec on the tank.
the tanks were run on the street with the body off so I expect the temps to raise about 20* on the track. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

If you have a chance to try a 2045/192, it will probably run better with better fuel economy, the the 9901, what header are you running? 2 out from the bottom seems lean, also if you have a 7mm venturi, that will help on better fuel mileage. How do you like the 1.1 clutch springs with this engine? Is it more controlable with those springs? Sorry that I didn't have any info for carb settings, I was at work, and just got home to check my info sheets, till now. Glad rageworks was able to help you.

I am not sure of the header as it came with my buggy that I bought used with the 9901 pipe. If I had to guess its a 192 as the block conection and pipe conection are equal. Is their any way to measure it to be 100%? I have a 7mm venturi I can try to help fuel milage.
I will ask around at the track and see if I can borrow a 2045 pipe to try.
As far as the clutch goes, I have always liked 1.1 springs on my clutches. To me it gives the bottom end more snap coming out of corners, base of jumps and off starts. Back when I was racing 6 years ago I had an S7 in my Kanai 2 with carbons and 1.1 springs that would do donuts if I turned to full lock and clamped it :D
I wouldn't say its more controllable because in low to medium grip tracks it would produce a lot of wheel spin, but on blue groove or clay surfaces the motors would launch hard and not look back. I may try some softer springs this weekend. On the flip side, if I don't get the low end figured out tonight, I will install my Werks B6 for this weekend as i cant have a motor loading up and stalling at pit stops. I can tell you the K10 has a more top end then the B6 and runs a little cooler, but this bottom end has me confused especially at 2 turns from closed.

What shoes are you using in your buggy? I have a Kyosho MP777WC, had a MP9, sold it, just didn't race it enough, and better resale value, running a RB WS7III, with 2the carbon shoes, and 1that aluminum, with 1.0 springs, works well, very controllable, and predictable, with using 1.1 springs, the engine has to spool up before the clutch engages, creating a bit of lag, I don't care for that myself, when the K10 your using has that lag, or bog, that could be the problem with springs, or even the pipe combo your using, I think your engine is to lean on bottom, an fat. on top, those engine do tune a little differently, mine was kind of a headache till you get about a gallon of fuel thru it. Your temps are good, maybe even a little low, I have used RB engines for over 10 yrs. For the most part, they seem to run the best around 240-260 range, using 30% Nitro content. Try 1 hour out on bottom, 1 hour in on top, your idle gap may need to close up, you want about 7mm. Give it a try, see how the change is, bring your temps up also, at least to 220-235.

I am running carbon shoes for the SC8 on my RC8. Im not a big fan of the carbon shoes but I am going to try them again this weekend. I don't think its the spool up time becasue of the 1.1 springs. Its more of a tuning issue with the bottom end. I will lean the HSN and open the LSN and go from there along with the 7mm venturi.

Going with smaller venturi, you will need to open both needles more anyway, its a little tricky in the becoming, because doing so with the settings your starting from it will be rich all the way around, maybe hard to start in the begining, just be patient.

Its been a while since I changed venturi in a carb, I may have it backwards, so you may need to lean it more, brain fart on me.

Here is a link to RB's site , you can down load factory specs on your engine. http://www.rbproducts.com/explose/RB.../01010-K10.pdf