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AZ,
thanks for the page. i had seen that but looked over the factory settings on the 2nd page. I guess I was looking for more info when I read through that quickly. I ended up pulling the K10 out of my chassis and reinstalled my other engine. I just don't have the time this week to really tune this motor in before saturday. I still think the LSN is to lean(number of turns from closed), but I can't get it to run right any fatter then 2 turns from close. It wont even fire if its more then 3 turns open from close. To get it to accelerate with a little bit of load (read acceptable here)after 10 to 15 seconds of idle, the bottom end wants to be about 1.5 turns from closed. Can anyone tell me what their race settings are for there LSN and HSN? I know i will have to adjust it slightly for best performance but 5 tanks of fuel and its still not correct is killing me time wise. I want to try to tune it after racing saturday if time permits. |
Reset your idle air gap at .5mm. Then you will find that four
turns out out on the low speed needle is still at little rich, so lean it some from there. Running the idle air gap at .7mm to .8mm will cause you problems. The one thing you will really notice if the idle air gap is too much is a two stage idle down, after a wide open throttle run. Also, as far as pipes go, try a Jammin JP-3 pipe out on that engine. I know, even I don't care much for the JP line of pipes on any engine I own. But the JP-3 really wakes this engine up and the engine temps didn't jump up twenty degrees, like I have noticed happens on other engines. I never liked the 2045 pipe on an engine that I've ran it on, RB's included. I have always found someting better, without sacrificing much run time. |
I have a the europa s7 in my truggy, still could use a little more bottom end.I have 2 different carb restrictors, I'm running the larger one.I was wondering if I can run it without a restrictor to gain a little power.
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Sorry to bug this thread, but i am looking for an old first gen. RB WS7.
Please e.mail me at [email protected] Thanks. |
Originally Posted by JeredR
(Post 9523307)
I have a the europa s7 in my truggy, still could use a little more bottom end.I have 2 different carb restrictors, I'm running the larger one.I was wondering if I can run it without a restrictor to gain a little power.
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jp4 pipe,alumium shoes,1.0 springs(i tried to put 1.2 springs but couldn't get them on)I know this pipe is 4 mid to high rpm,its just the pipe i had and didn't want to send extra on pipe.
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Originally Posted by JeredR
(Post 9524092)
jp4 pipe,alumium shoes,1.0 springs(i tried to put 1.2 springs but couldn't get them on)I know this pipe is 4 mid to high rpm,its just the pipe i had and didn't want to send extra on pipe.
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Question please,
I've run 3/4 of a gallon in my Shark 10, o'donnels 20% RACING FEUL. My motor was always hitting 200-240 during the race, but on my last run I hit 284. With the engine cool and the plug out, it was still a little tight at TDC and it clicked, but I was able to turn it over by hand. With the plug in, it still had compression but no piston friction at TDC. Is my motor done, or do I need to replace the piston sleeve rod? |
Originally Posted by moth898
(Post 9527262)
Question please,
I've run 3/4 of a gallon in my Shark 10, o'donnels 20% RACING FEUL. My motor was always hitting 200-240 during the race, but on my last run I hit 284. With the engine cool and the plug out, it was still a little tight at TDC and it clicked, but I was able to turn it over by hand. With the plug in, it still had compression but no piston friction at TDC. Is my motor done, or do I need to replace the piston sleeve rod? |
Originally Posted by Chris Peralta
(Post 9528067)
You should be fine!!! I have run my engines up to 280 or more at times and they have been fine.... Just not the kind of thing you want to make a habit out of. Just keep running it, when it will no longer hold an idle and it seems to die a lot is when you will need a new P/S/R
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Chris, aznitronut, and all you masters of RB Engines
I would like to know which piston i should get for my RB B10 engine, I broke the piston, i cant find any shops that carry a b 10 piston so I guess its going under another name or ?? and i have a race on Sunday!! ... Best Regards Daniel |
Well I would not suggest changing just the piston. When you change those you should change the piston, sleeve, and rod.
1146-53 is the part you want. 1146-33 will work but is the X10/X11 so it is only 3 port, not 5 port like your B10. 1143-7 will also work but is a 7 port not a 5 port. |
Originally Posted by Chris Peralta
(Post 9528582)
Well I would not suggest changing just the piston. When you change those you should change the piston, sleeve, and rod.
1146-53 is the part you want. 1146-33 will work but is the X10/X11 so it is only 3 port, not 5 port like your B10. 1143-7 will also work but is a 7 port not a 5 port. Well even though I have only had around 5 liters through the engine? Daniel |
Originally Posted by daniel.cordes
(Post 9528604)
Thanks for the fast reply,
Well even though I have only had around 5 liters through the engine? Daniel |
Allright, and could you tell me what the difference in character is for the two other p/s/r (1146-33 and 1143-7) ,
compared to my B10? 1146-53. |
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