R/C Tech Forums - RB Concept Engine Thread..

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Quote:

Originally Posted by cdc (Post 7915071)

RB,s are super tight when new.

Too bad the new p/s/r i bought from rb wasn't. If it stays running well i'll buy another new one i guess.

I agree, I just stopped using a heat gun. I am a few tanks out of break in.
:lol::lol:

Quote:

Originally Posted by hambone (Post 7915046)

Now where was i? Not accepting defeat i tore the USA down and to be honest didn't really see anything out of the ordinary except low compression. As i stated before the new p/s/r assembly i bought from rb had the least amount of metal pinch new than anything i ever bought. I found that the newer piston fit very snug in my old original sleeve, really snug. After a lengthy conversation with Neal at Clockwork he suggested the block may have a hairline crack so i swapped it out with a spare block i had. This was one of the tightest engines i've tried to start. My ofna blue box with a pair of lipos really struggled. Took a while to break it in. I even took the speed carb off and went back to my fms carb(can't seem to locate the rb carb at the moment). Both carbs look identical. After break in i leaned on it a little and had the carb setup identical to where i raced the fms. It's manners are perfect. I ran tank after tank without shutting it off. Always idled nice, never leaned out and will do full throttle to full stop to full throttle time after time and never act up. Damn block was cracked. I didn't put any sealer on the engine and i still have the P4 plug in it from the race Sunday. I want to thank everybody for their help and suggestions. Sorry to Chris Peralta for aggravating the hell outta ya, lol. If anybody has a spare block they want to sell pm me please. The one i'm using had the locater pin broke off for the sleeve and a new one is in not in the original location causing me to put a new notch in the sleeve. That's a pain.

No worries man, this hobby can frustrate the hell out of people when things don't work right. I am pretty sure I have an old crankcase for ya. It's not a USA case but it will still work. I will look thru my stuff later today for ya and let you know.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris Peralta (Post 7917698)

Thanks Chris. I do alot of engine work for racers, so when my own stuff won't run it's not a good thing. When an OS block cracks it's always wet in that location, that's what threw me off.

Hi. Question Chris.

What is the best glow plug for an RB Engine? An RB Plug??

RB Medium N0. 6

OS No 8.

Odonnell No 77

McCoy No 9.

How about the Nove Rossi C6G??

For use on tight tracks, out side temp from 75 degrees to 100, fuel is 30 percent

Odonnell.

Thanks

Quote:

Originally Posted by HBL2PE (Post 7904698)

Hey

I´d like to hear how you like your K9 or K10. How many Gallons have you through it? What did you change? What do you think about the performance?
And which pipes can you recommend? Is the 2045 the best?

I would be happy about any answer :)

No one?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dr. Evil (Post 7918019)

RB #6 or o,donnell #97 for turbo plug. RB #6 or o,donnell #99 for standard plug.

Hi. The RB Plugs are kinda hard to get ahold of.

Anything Else??

Also, which seems to last longest.

Thanks
:D

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dr. Evil (Post 7918218)

Hi. The RB Plugs are kinda hard to get ahold of.

Anything Else??

Also, which seems to last longest.

Thanks
:D

As far as a standard plug goes the threaded part of plug is too short on the OS plugs. The LC3 is the longer OS plug. Most people i know that run standard plugs use OD99's or other OD plugs. I'm not qualified to answer that question since i've never owned or worked on a non turbo plugged engine.

So now the C6 USA is running flawless everyday. I went to .3mm head shims. I have noticed it's tough to get the OS plug to seal properly as it seeps some around the plug but it damn sure runs well with it. Now i will buy the whole farm and switch to RB plugs cuz i don't like tightening it that hard. I will probably go down to .2mm shims since the murnan modified head button has 2 more small cuts in it to help with flame travel adding a small amount of volume. I'm used to running engines with raised compression with colder plugs. With the shimming being lower do i want the #6 or will the #7 work without being too cold? I live in Pa. and our tracks are close to sea level. Thanks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by hambone (Post 7923587)

The RB #6 or #7 will work.

i have my rb engine running with a p4 plug and runs fine

Quote:

Originally Posted by hambone (Post 7923587)

I would also run a 6 plug, with pulling out the shim you might also be good with a 7 but I would only try one of them. I pull head shims a lot as I am at a higher altitude and generally go from a 5 to a 6 if I pull a shim. If oyu do try a 7 let us know as I might start keeping some 7's around.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alan D. (Post 7923990)

I would run the 6.

Thanks guys. Finally got in touch with Uriah. He said the nova C6TGC or
C6TGF is what he uses, can't remember exactly. Nova has all kind of crazy plug numbers going on. A local hobby shop has the #7 RB's in stock but not the 6's. I'll order some RB #6's. I was also told by Uriah that if the OS's seal ok to keep running them. If i knew for sure the OD99T's were cold enough i would give them a try. Now they have a 87T out??????? Oh the simple days of OS Speeds with P3's! What have i done?