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Glow Plug
Hi. I don't know if you were talking to me or the other conversation.
OS No. 8. |
Originally Posted by Dr. Evil
(Post 7903208)
Hi. I don't know if you were talking to me or the other conversation.
OS No. 8. Try using a RB or o,donnell glow plug. |
Glow Plug
Hi.
I would believe you, but, why when breaking in the engine, I had no idle problems at all. Even after I return home, the engine does the same thing. Not to mention, why would the glow plug allow the idle to change ?? I have never heard of this. BTW, put in an Odonnell last night. No change. Same thing. |
Originally Posted by hambone
(Post 7901325)
Fooled with this thing all day. I give up. Pulled it off just so i have a chance to finish a qualifier. I've had P4 to P6 in it. Very inconsistant engine. It showed signs of being an outright animal for maybe 2 minutes then it goes south. Compression is low now and it might have 2 gallons on it including break in. No more RB for me.
If you really only have two gallons on it the engine should barely be getting broken in. If it is already low on compression something went wrong during break in because any of my engines with 2 gallons on them can't be turned over by hand when the engine is in the car. I do understand you being frustrated but you can't say it's the RB's fault when you bought a used engine added a new piston and sleeve and then had it modified. |
Originally Posted by Dr. Evil
(Post 7903940)
Hi.
I would believe you, but, why when breaking in the engine, I had no idle problems at all. Even after I return home, the engine does the same thing. Not to mention, why would the glow plug allow the idle to change ?? I have never heard of this. BTW, put in an Odonnell last night. No change. Same thing. |
Originally Posted by Chris Peralta
(Post 7904313)
If you really only have two gallons on it the engine should barely be getting broken in. If it is already low on compression something went wrong during break in because any of my engines with 2 gallons on them can't be turned over by hand when the engine is in the car. I do understand you being frustrated but you can't say it's the RB's fault when you bought a used engine added a new piston and sleeve and then had it modified.
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Hey
I´d like to hear how you like your K9 or K10. How many Gallons have you through it? What did you change? What do you think about the performance? And which pipes can you recommend? Is the 2045 the best? I would be happy about any answer :) |
Originally Posted by hambone
(Post 7904543)
I put a new rb p/s/r assembly in it. It wasn't very snug when brand new. All my engines are modded. If you add up all the problems i've ever had with all my nitro engines over the years it's less than this engine has given me. I'm not saying the rb's are junk, that would be a ridiculous statement. In my opinion they are hands down better than novas. I have to tear the engine down cuz now it doesn't feel right when the piston is coming back down after tdc. It has some kind of strange drag on it. I bought a bottle of lucky 7 from Joe at the race yesterday and this doesn't compute since i've never had to seal an engine before. It already ate the 1st rear ceramic bearing a couple weeks ago when i was trying different carbs on it. It now has a new set of tko's front and rear. I'm gonna tear it back down again and get both p/s sets i have pinched, put the rb carb back on it and seal it up like a jackass. I will contact Uriah tomorrow and let him know what's going on since he's the one who modded it. And i will say if you are an rb fan and frown on Murnan Mods you don't what you're saying. He is thee RB specialist. A racing aquaintance had this engine before i bought it and always begged for my help to tune it. It's been a problem child for a while. Hell even my speed was a problem yesterday as the front bearing just falls outta the block now. I want to say that for maybe 2 min. intervals while warming up this engine was astounding. It was throwing my truggy around like it weighed 3 lbs. It's hard for me to believe a quality engine has an air leak but that is how it acts. I'm not buying the glowplug thing though.
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Originally Posted by Big KAT
(Post 7904731)
Grinder knows RB's for sure.:nod: I would check the needle O rings and carb boot as well. It sounds like it may have sucked the element out of the plug and damaged the piston( I hope not ). Good luck with it.:)
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Originally Posted by Dr. Evil
(Post 7903023)
Hi guys and gals.
I have a problem with an RB Worlds S7. (Original) I rebuilt the unit a few weeks ago. Here is what I did. New Front /Rear Bearing. New P/S/Con Rod. cleaned the case. Installed the above. sealed the carb/back plate. Unit fired up with no problem. :nod::nod: Unit was broken in with the breakin bible instruction. (First time) Idled like a dream. :nod::nod: Now. Here is where it gets interesting. :eek: Finished breaking it in No problems. Idle still no problem. I live in higher altitude 4400 feet above sea level. First time out, I went to Revelation Raceway this weekend. (First time racing there. Nice Track, great owner) :nod::nod::nod::nod: Would not idle for anything. Wouldn't die either. (Good thing) What I meant is, when it's cold, (just starting) outside temp 100 degrees, the engine is fine. idles great, when the engine comes up to temp (180), it also raised its idle. blip on it, it might come down, it might not. Tends to stay that way even when running it. Temps are I think around 240. I suspect the front bering might have gone leaking. Some oil on the front of engine. Not bad, but, some. It's not the tank or fuel line. When the mains came up, I missed 2 laps of my race because I was swapping engines. The backup engine didn't have idle issues or anything. Any suggestions. ?? :confused::confused::confused: |
Originally Posted by hambone
(Post 7904543)
I put a new rb p/s/r assembly in it. It wasn't very snug when brand new. All my engines are modded. If you add up all the problems i've ever had with all my nitro engines over the years it's less than this engine has given me. I'm not saying the rb's are junk, that would be a ridiculous statement. In my opinion they are hands down better than novas. I have to tear the engine down cuz now it doesn't feel right when the piston is coming back down after tdc. It has some kind of strange drag on it. I bought a bottle of lucky 7 from Joe at the race yesterday and this doesn't compute since i've never had to seal an engine before. It already ate the 1st rear ceramic bearing a couple weeks ago when i was trying different carbs on it. It now has a new set of tko's front and rear. I'm gonna tear it back down again and get both p/s sets i have pinched, put the rb carb back on it and seal it up like a jackass. I will contact Uriah tomorrow and let him know what's going on since he's the one who modded it. And i will say if you are an rb fan and frown on Murnan Mods you don't what you're saying. He is thee RB specialist. A racing aquaintance had this engine before i bought it and always begged for my help to tune it. It's been a problem child for a while. Hell even my speed was a problem yesterday as the front bearing just falls outta the block now. I want to say that for maybe 2 min. intervals while warming up this engine was astounding. It was throwing my truggy around like it weighed 3 lbs. It's hard for me to believe a quality engine has an air leak but that is how it acts. I'm not buying the glowplug thing though.
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Bad idle
Interestingly enough, I put in new bearings when I rebuilt the engine.
The font bearing apparently went bad. Nice. Replaced with a new one and so far, idle problem went away. Bearing leaked through the double seal. Take off one seal and you can see light throught the other (Surprised the seal actually stayed on, flicked off with my fingernail) Hmm. I don't think I will be purchasing Protek bearings again. I was just testing to see how these would hold up. Back to TKO. Get what you pay for.. |
Originally Posted by Dr. Evil
(Post 7911038)
Interestingly enough, I put in new bearings when I rebuilt the engine.
The font bearing apparently went bad. Nice. Replaced with a new one and so far, idle problem went away. Bearing leaked through the double seal. Take off one seal and you can see light throught the other (Surprised the seal actually stayed on, flicked off with my fingernail) Hmm. I don't think I will be purchasing Protek bearings again. I was just testing to see how these would hold up. Back to TKO. Get what you pay for.. |
Now where was i? Not accepting defeat i tore the USA down and to be honest didn't really see anything out of the ordinary except low compression. As i stated before the new p/s/r assembly i bought from rb had the least amount of metal pinch new than anything i ever bought. I found that the newer piston fit very snug in my old original sleeve, really snug. After a lengthy conversation with Neal at Clockwork he suggested the block may have a hairline crack so i swapped it out with a spare block i had. This was one of the tightest engines i've tried to start. My ofna blue box with a pair of lipos really struggled. Took a while to break it in. I even took the speed carb off and went back to my fms carb(can't seem to locate the rb carb at the moment). Both carbs look identical. After break in i leaned on it a little and had the carb setup identical to where i raced the fms. It's manners are perfect. I ran tank after tank without shutting it off. Always idled nice, never leaned out and will do full throttle to full stop to full throttle time after time and never act up. Damn block was cracked. I didn't put any sealer on the engine and i still have the P4 plug in it from the race Sunday. I want to thank everybody for their help and suggestions. Sorry to Chris Peralta for aggravating the hell outta ya, lol. If anybody has a spare block they want to sell pm me please. The one i'm using had the locater pin broke off for the sleeve and a new one is in not in the original location causing me to put a new notch in the sleeve. That's a pain.
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Originally Posted by hambone
(Post 7915046)
Now where was i? Not accepting defeat i tore the USA down and to be honest didn't really see anything out of the ordinary except low compression. As i stated before the new p/s/r assembly i bought from rb had the least amount of metal pinch new than anything i ever bought. I found that the newer piston fit very snug in my old original sleeve, really snug. After a lengthy conversation with Neal at Clockwork he suggested the block may have a hairline crack so i swapped it out with a spare block i had. This was one of the tightest engines i've tried to start. My ofna blue box with a pair of lipos really struggled. Took a while to break it in. I even took the speed carb off and went back to my fms carb(can't seem to locate the rb carb at the moment). Both carbs look identical. After break in i leaned on it a little and had the carb setup identical to where i raced the fms. It's manners are perfect. I ran tank after tank without shutting it off. Always idled nice, never leaned out and will do full throttle to full stop to full throttle time after time and never act up. Damn block was cracked. I didn't put any sealer on the engine and i still have the P4 plug in it from the race Sunday. I want to thank everybody for their help and suggestions. Sorry to Chris Peralta for aggravating the hell outta ya, lol. If anybody has a spare block they want to sell pm me please. The one i'm using had the locater pin broke off for the sleeve and a new one is in not in the original location causing me to put a new notch in the sleeve. That's a pain.
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