Yeah, I'm sold on that engine. It's cheaper than rebuilding a WS-9 (if you have to do anything more than rod/piston/sleeve) and it looks very very similar in spec to the WS9 anyway.

My B11 is en route, will drag as many hours out of the WS9 as I can but pick up the F11 for practice and set-up once it's had it's day.

Who all run the rb air filter. Can l use a diff housing to run the rb air filters.

I used to run the RB filter housing and it is still my favorite filter, but it doesn't fit under the body of most newer cars. RB does make filters for the Losi Serpent car as well, they even come pre oiled.

I like the look of the rb filters. They seem more dense thAn all other filters.

stalls at 100 celcius
 

I am currently breaking in my new RB B10 engine but when i reach around 100 degrees celcius ( 210 fahrenheit) it stops!! does anybody have any ideas`??

glowplug is changed!

When you say it stops what happens? does it rev high then stop? does the idle drop pretty low then it just shuts down? I have a feeling you are still rich on the LSN so you either want to turn up your idle or lean the LSN a little. Generally during breakin I always run my idle higher than normal to make sure it stays fired while running on the rich side. Also going to a hotter plug should help it stay fired when still rich.

well i heat it up to around 70 celcius and then start it, its starts good and the idle is slightly higher than what i normally would have, LSN and HSN is rich. then it idles really well for 2 - 4 minutes which is about the time it takes for the engine to reach 95 - 105 celcius. Around that temperature the engine (LSN) starts to sound way too rich and then it just dies. no idle increase or anything, just slows down for 2 seconds and then dies

Lean out your LSN a few hours, when it's cold the idle will always seem high so try not to adjust the idle to be stable till the engine is nice and hot. Have you leaned the LSN or HSN at all yet? If not then that is what you need to do for sure. The needles are always very rich at stock settings and will need to be leaned to keep it running when your driving it around.

If i do that then my idle will be really high, since now its slightly higher than normal and very stable until it reaches 100 celcius. can that be right?

Ignore what your idle is doing until it is fully warmed up. When you lean the needle yes you may need to also lower the idle as a result. The key is getting the mixture set right so that it will idle and stay running for you once up to temp.

I'm thinking about getting a RB s7 Europa from a guy at the track, he has run a gallon thru it, then had the speed shop put ceramic bearings in it.My question is will it do ok in my rc8t.I've got a jpx .28 in it now but its time for a rebuild on it.Also I'll be running a jp4 pipe for now because its what I have already.Thanks for any help.

The S7 Europa was really an onroad engine for its time. If you plan on putting it in a truggy I feel you may be disappointed as it will lack the bottom end necessary for ultimate fun factor/racing scenarios.

If you want a .21 engine then the Fire11 is more than enough, the B11 will have great results and drivability, the MT series are .28 and will be more than powerful enough and if you can find one out there used a WS series engine (WS7 II or greater such as WS7III or WS9) were great engines but fuel hungry.

Is anyone still running the OLD style C6 i have a chance to pick one up which is new and with a 2045 pipe.

Its the standard head version and i remember them being awesome motors and reliable.

Any comments people can make, will be run on 25% and probably with a 6.5mm restrictor for a bit of econnomy

If you can.get the S7 Europa cheap, use it, get away from the JP pipe, they tend to run hotter than most pipes, the Europa was the same engine, piston, sleeve, rod, and crank as the WS7, what was different, was the crank was not coated, the case was not black, and the rod was not as good, I probably went thru a half a dozen over the years when they were around, use the RB 2045 pipe, with the RB198 header, it will give you plenty of bottom, maybe even use the RB 204 header, it will.give you more bottom yet. It would probably be best to replace the conrod in that engine also, if your using the engine in a truggy, go with all aluminum clutch shoes too, it should be fine.

If you can get for a reasonable price, buy it, use the RB 192 header, you can use the standard head button, its a little.cheaper on glow plugs, or go to a C6 turbo button, you will get better burn, and a little more power, if you can get the newer style back plate, that will help your fuel mileage too, depending on how old the engine is, if it was based off of the older C5, the back plate will not work, you should still get decent fuel mileage .