Chris,
with what kind of fuel and size venturi? Is it already shimmed for 30%?

I ran Byrons for half the year and then ran Sidewinder, (Purple) and run time was very close between the two fuels. I always use a 7mm in my engines, seems to be the perfect balance for ease of tuning, good power, and good economy.

The engines state they come shimmed for 25%. I have always ran 30% without adding a headshim, but I race at a high elevation. Every time I have ran my engines at sea level I just run them without adding a shim and have never had a problem. If your not real good at tuning and you run below 1,500 ft elevation you may want to add the shim just to be safe.

Chris is right, we don't advise to shim more your engine, as you will loose some bottom power (very slightly). However, if you use more than 40% nitro, it's safer to shim it!

You can understand better our 2011 engine range thanks to this:

http://www.rbproducts.com/mainEn.php...cts&AR_Stat04=

http://www.rbproducts.com/imagesite/...MOTEUR2011.jpg

Hey guys,

I thinking about buy RB b10 engines for this year but I have few questions.
A few local guys had b10 and they're complaining : not stable , hard in tuning , flame out without reason and i heard that 50% of b10 have bad front bearings is that thruh?

Jacob

I have not seen or heard of this issue honestly. I have had 2 B10's of my own and there have been several here in my area running them as well and none of us had bad front bearings. The B10 comes with the new Nova front bearing that is a GREAT front bearing on any engine. When there is tuning and flame out issues 95% of the time it is either the person with the screw driver or an air leak in the fuel system somewhere.

i plan on using a B9 with 2045 pipe in truggy, 30% werks fuel.
will it be enough power to push it on large tracks. Also what heat range plug is recommended?

B9 internally is the same as the B10, that is the engine I have been running in truggy for several years. It will have plenty of power to pull your truggy, if you don't already have a 198 header you probably want to pick one up. This will help you get a little more bottom end power from the engine that really helps in truggy.

As for plugs I always run either a #5 plug or a #6 plug. The 5 will make the engine more responsive at low RPM. The 6 plug will make more power on the top end of the engine but the tuning window will be slightly more narrow. Both plugs work great, I generally run a 5 if it's below 80 degrees and a 6 when it's above 80.

You also have the 204P manifold for incredible bottom power on the truggy!;)

Thanks, i only have O'donnel plugs 99t and 97t.
I have 2 B9 can't wait to try one. 3 more months of winter:flaming:

Those plugs will work for ya as well.

Thx alot for answer , can you tell me something about durability? how offen conrod need change? and what about glow plugs , here RB plugs are hard to get , maybe OS plug will work?

I would not suggest you use OS plugs, they have a different taper to them. Can you get Odonnell plugs?

As for durability, to me RB's have always been one of the most durable, long lasting engines out there. I have engines that are all stock except for a front bearing and they have 12-15 gallons thru them. I will say that I always pre heat my engines as this will save you a lot of wear and tear on your conrod bushings. If you never preheat your engine prior to starting I would say change out the rod after 4 gallons and the engine should be fine for the rest of it's life.

I always preheat engines for first 1-2 galons , I think I can get odonnell plug but it will last long like RB/novarossi plugs?

I have only used the OD plugs a few times and in my experience they do not last as long as the RB plugs do, but they work well and can last if tuned well. If you run Nova plugs you need to be careful you are not getting the cold body plugs. All in all I would say your best off just ordering in some RB plugs.