2LikesGo-Tech Engines Thread
01-28-2014 | 03:20 PM
Tech Master
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,425
From: Echuca, Victoria, Australia.
These were a great motor. We found they didn't like the JP series of pipes all that much unfortunately.
If you can get your hands on a GO 2072 pipe I would recommend it. This will bring the GX Series motors to life and give you better run time as well.
Run them on 30% fuel with a medium plug. We found the O'Donnell 97T a great plug with these (Werks #6 plug would also work well).
Most of our running is at close to sea level - so plug choice may vary depending on where you live.
These motors run a long LSN in the carb normally - but I remember that a large percentage of the motors imported into the US were factory fitted with a short LSN at the request of the importer at the time.
If you do have a long LSN model (where the needle remains in the fuel delivery tube right up to WOT), then the tuning will be different to a normal short needle model.
For the long needle version the HSN is set only a few hours in from flush at best (it only effects the last 5% of the rev range). All tuning is then done on the LSN.
If the HSN is too lean, it will result in severe lean bog at or below half tank level. It's quite obvious when this situation exists. Just richen the HSN an hour at a time until the lean bog goes.
From memory the LSN sat at about 1/2 turn in at race tune - depending on fuel, plug, pipe, etc etc.
If you have the shorter needle version (which I suspect), set both needles to flush with an idle gap of around .5mm.
Tune in both needles from there until your were you want to be tune wise.
Hope that helps.
If you can get your hands on a GO 2072 pipe I would recommend it. This will bring the GX Series motors to life and give you better run time as well.
Run them on 30% fuel with a medium plug. We found the O'Donnell 97T a great plug with these (Werks #6 plug would also work well).
Most of our running is at close to sea level - so plug choice may vary depending on where you live.
These motors run a long LSN in the carb normally - but I remember that a large percentage of the motors imported into the US were factory fitted with a short LSN at the request of the importer at the time.
If you do have a long LSN model (where the needle remains in the fuel delivery tube right up to WOT), then the tuning will be different to a normal short needle model.
For the long needle version the HSN is set only a few hours in from flush at best (it only effects the last 5% of the rev range). All tuning is then done on the LSN.
If the HSN is too lean, it will result in severe lean bog at or below half tank level. It's quite obvious when this situation exists. Just richen the HSN an hour at a time until the lean bog goes.
From memory the LSN sat at about 1/2 turn in at race tune - depending on fuel, plug, pipe, etc etc.
If you have the shorter needle version (which I suspect), set both needles to flush with an idle gap of around .5mm.
Tune in both needles from there until your were you want to be tune wise.
Hope that helps.
Im running the 2072 pipe as well, 25% NEO+ fuel & the O.S P4 plugs, seems to be a great combo but I wouldn't mind trying the new GO pipe, I want slightly less bottom end power & slightly more mid to top.
01-28-2014 | 11:58 PM
Tech Adept
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From: Bellevue, WA
Try getting hold of Rex at Rw Mods (http://www.rw-mods.com/ or [email protected]). If that doesn't work then PM me and I'll figure something out.
01-29-2014 | 03:50 AM
Tech Fanatic
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From: Burlington, Ont. Canada
Try getting hold of Rex at Rw Mods (http://www.rw-mods.com/ or [email protected]). If that doesn't work then PM me and I'll figure something out.
Do you race for Caster?
01-29-2014 | 11:22 AM
Tech Elite
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,983
From: Auckland, New Zealand
I have the old GX5 as well, although its one of the Godzilla modified engines from Mark at NAA, great engine, lots of power, easy to keep tuned & I would get pretty close to 10 min on a tank, probably more.
Im running the 2072 pipe as well, 25% NEO+ fuel & the O.S P4 plugs, seems to be a great combo but I wouldn't mind trying the new GO pipe, I want slightly less bottom end power & slightly more mid to top.
Im running the 2072 pipe as well, 25% NEO+ fuel & the O.S P4 plugs, seems to be a great combo but I wouldn't mind trying the new GO pipe, I want slightly less bottom end power & slightly more mid to top.
So, 2072 in truggy and 2103 in buggy would perhaps be a good guideline.
The Werks 2058 is also a brilliant pipe. We have run this on a couple of GO motors including the .25 6 Port, and it's a sweet match up. Slightly smoother (but still very strong) bottom end, with enhanced mid range power and definitely more top end. Improved economy on the .25 as well. More expensive than the GO pipes, but very nice.
01-29-2014 | 05:50 PM
Tech Master
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,425
From: Echuca, Victoria, Australia.
The new GO 2103 seems to have more mid / top performance than the 2072 from what we have seen here so far.
So, 2072 in truggy and 2103 in buggy would perhaps be a good guideline.
The Werks 2058 is also a brilliant pipe. We have run this on a couple of GO motors including the .25 6 Port, and it's a sweet match up. Slightly smoother (but still very strong) bottom end, with enhanced mid range power and definitely more top end. Improved economy on the .25 as well. More expensive than the GO pipes, but very nice.
So, 2072 in truggy and 2103 in buggy would perhaps be a good guideline.
The Werks 2058 is also a brilliant pipe. We have run this on a couple of GO motors including the .25 6 Port, and it's a sweet match up. Slightly smoother (but still very strong) bottom end, with enhanced mid range power and definitely more top end. Improved economy on the .25 as well. More expensive than the GO pipes, but very nice.
The Werks pipe also sounds good, might be worth trying after trying the GO pipe.
01-29-2014 | 06:46 PM
Tech Elite
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,983
From: Auckland, New Zealand
Thanks Grizz, sounds like the GO 2103 might be the pipe I'm after, my engine is made to have a lot of power right through the rev range & a very strong bottom end so a pipe with more mid to top & similar or slightly less bottom end would make it just right. How do they go compared with the 2072 for fuel economy.?
The Werks pipe also sounds good, might be worth trying after trying the GO pipe.
The Werks pipe also sounds good, might be worth trying after trying the GO pipe.
Race season starts this coming weekend, so will have a better idea then.
Most people that have the new motor are just running the new pipe as a matter of course.
The 2072 was never a super economical pipe, and just going on the performance we have seen so far with the new 2103 pipe, I would say it would have the edge over the 2072 in the economy stakes.
If you get a chance to run the Werks EFRA 2058 give it a whirl. This pipe is very popular everywhere with club racers and pro's alike.
We have guys here running them on the Werks motors, plus RB, Nova etc and loving the power and economy this pipe produces.
It's basically an on-road chamber with a long off-road header, so best of both worlds. Great buggy pipe on most motors I would think.
We run the 2058 on the B5 Werks motors in truggy too, as the more torque designed 2013 pipe is not legal here (under the IFMAR rules we run).
The 2058 has a slightly smoother bottom end, but still enough stump pulling power for any corner or jump, and compared to the 2013 it gives approx 45 sec more run time per tank.
01-29-2014 | 09:19 PM
I checked the GxII plus timing #'s and it should rip pretty good.
I am not listing the Go products on my site yet but if you need anything pm me or e-mail me at [email protected]
Rex
I am not listing the Go products on my site yet but if you need anything pm me or e-mail me at [email protected]
Rex
01-31-2014 | 01:13 PM
Tech Initiate
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 22
I'm hoping that someone familiar with the GO line of engines can tell me if either of the following GO .28 engines would do fine in a somewhat heavy (9-ish lbs.) basher. A friend of mine had a GX5R in a D8 and that got me thinking about the GO line of engines. However, I want something with a pull-start or roto-start so I don't have to lug a starter box around. I know these are cheaper 3-port models, but I don't know what the difference is between the two and was hoping someone who had dealt with GO engines might know. Also, I wanted to make sure they aren't such a bargain-basement model that I get a poorly machined, pinchless engine like some people were getting with the GO-based Trackstar from Hobbyking.
The engines in question:
EDIT: Great...I can't post pics yet. There is a blue-headed .28 3 port that has the head milled so the head is a little more squarish and what looks like a composite carb. There is also a black-headed 3 port that has a round head that looks just like the R2800-M00HSG listed on the GO-Engine.com site but with a black head instead of silver and has an aluminum-bodied carb. Both are listed on Ebay, Amazon and few hobby sites.
Any help is appreciated. If these aren't any good, I'll probably go with an SH-based engine (LRP Z.28R, Losi 454, Dynamite Big Red, etc.)
The engines in question:
EDIT: Great...I can't post pics yet. There is a blue-headed .28 3 port that has the head milled so the head is a little more squarish and what looks like a composite carb. There is also a black-headed 3 port that has a round head that looks just like the R2800-M00HSG listed on the GO-Engine.com site but with a black head instead of silver and has an aluminum-bodied carb. Both are listed on Ebay, Amazon and few hobby sites.
Any help is appreciated. If these aren't any good, I'll probably go with an SH-based engine (LRP Z.28R, Losi 454, Dynamite Big Red, etc.)
02-01-2014 | 01:37 AM
Tech Elite
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,983
From: Auckland, New Zealand
I'm hoping that someone familiar with the GO line of engines can tell me if either of the following GO .28 engines would do fine in a somewhat heavy (9-ish lbs.) basher. A friend of mine had a GX5R in a D8 and that got me thinking about the GO line of engines. However, I want something with a pull-start or roto-start so I don't have to lug a starter box around. I know these are cheaper 3-port models, but I don't know what the difference is between the two and was hoping someone who had dealt with GO engines might know. Also, I wanted to make sure they aren't such a bargain-basement model that I get a poorly machined, pinchless engine like some people were getting with the GO-based Trackstar from Hobbyking.
The engines in question:
EDIT: Great...I can't post pics yet. There is a blue-headed .28 3 port that has the head milled so the head is a little more squarish and what looks like a composite carb. There is also a black-headed 3 port that has a round head that looks just like the R2800-M00HSG listed on the GO-Engine.com site but with a black head instead of silver and has an aluminum-bodied carb. Both are listed on Ebay, Amazon and few hobby sites.
Any help is appreciated. If these aren't any good, I'll probably go with an SH-based engine (LRP Z.28R, Losi 454, Dynamite Big Red, etc.)
The engines in question:
EDIT: Great...I can't post pics yet. There is a blue-headed .28 3 port that has the head milled so the head is a little more squarish and what looks like a composite carb. There is also a black-headed 3 port that has a round head that looks just like the R2800-M00HSG listed on the GO-Engine.com site but with a black head instead of silver and has an aluminum-bodied carb. Both are listed on Ebay, Amazon and few hobby sites.
Any help is appreciated. If these aren't any good, I'll probably go with an SH-based engine (LRP Z.28R, Losi 454, Dynamite Big Red, etc.)
If you don't want an engine with minimal pinch and compression that won't last long - do not by a pull start model.
By their nature they are very "soft" in order for the pull start to work.
Two major problems with pull starts other than the soft motors -
1 - They continually crap out. Cords break, one way bearing gets dirty and jams.
2 - They sap a large amount of power from the engine by having the pull start engagement system continually running off the end of the crank via the one way bearing. This is a big reason pure race motors don't have pull starts.
The GO .25 6 Port is a wicked truggy motor if you can track one down.
If not the older GX5R, or more recent GXII-5RHO.
Do yourself a favour and by a starter box - seriously.
With a Lipo in it it will weigh nothing, and will save you one hell of a lot of frustration and despair when starting your motor.
02-02-2014 | 10:45 AM
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02-02-2014 | 10:56 AM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 218
From: Bellevue, WA
I didn't order any of them, but I see it on my price list so I am assuming it is still available.
Do you have a pipe recommendation for the .25 6-port? Based on your earlier posts I am thinking the Werks 2058 or GO 2103.
Do you have a pipe recommendation for the .25 6-port? Based on your earlier posts I am thinking the Werks 2058 or GO 2103.
Last edited by Bellgate; 02-03-2014 at 09:23 AM.
02-03-2014 | 01:35 AM
Tech Elite
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,983
From: Auckland, New Zealand
We have a customer here who loves the .25 6 Ports in his truggy.
He runs a stock .25 motor fitted with the GXII-5RHO 3 needle carb, and Werks 2058 pipe on 30% Werks Race Blend fuel - and this motor is animal.
He did some testing last year with the Clockwork Nitro Mizers (largest orange insert), and was getting just on 13 min run time with this set up on a fast yet technical track.
The .25 is an "old fashioned" looking motor for want of a better description, but the 6 port design gives you a motor with massive bottom end, as well as sizzling top end performance for a motor of this size (aided by the 2058 pipe).
If you can get some in I would recommend it as a great truggy motor to add to your GO range.