2LikesGo-Tech Engines Thread
12-12-2013 | 03:45 AM
Tech Elite
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,983
From: Auckland, New Zealand
Is that just RTV over the MSN?
Looks like they just cut the MSN down (probably glued/set it at factory) and stuck RTV over it so you can't mess with it.
If they wanted to go back to a two-needle, should've went back to the original 2-needle that came on the GX's, JS's, Precirotate, etc.
Looks like they just cut the MSN down (probably glued/set it at factory) and stuck RTV over it so you can't mess with it.
If they wanted to go back to a two-needle, should've went back to the original 2-needle that came on the GX's, JS's, Precirotate, etc.
It appears to be based on the 3 needle from the 5RHO motor, but with a fixed fuel tube, not adjustable.
The low speed needle settings on the new Plus motors are around 1 - 2 turns in from flush, as opposed to a quarter turn out from flush on the 3 needle model.
The new carbs tune nice and performance on the new Plus motor is good.
12-12-2013 | 11:34 AM
Tech Elite
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,983
From: Auckland, New Zealand
Hello
I have a Go 21 3 ports (it says R21 on the crank) with the blue head and long LSN, it's just broken in. Great engine
When I got it, HSN was 3 turns out from closed (so not flush but about 0.5 mm in from flush) and LSN way out of flush.
So far I tuned it the way its described in this forum
ie: set idle gap to 0.7mm (actually it's more like 0.5mm now) max and then only tune LSN for steady idle and crisp acceleration and leaving the HSN alone for the moment
I was wondering if it tuned like the GX series, if the HSN had to be flush when you start tuning the engine with very little tweak afterwards or if the HSN non flush position was the normal factory setting with these older Go engines??
I can't really go further with the LSN as idle will start to rise after a few secs when the buggy gets to a stop with 1/4 left in the tank. LSN pinch is about 4 secs at 105 degres celcius
Thanks a lot guys
Francois
I have a Go 21 3 ports (it says R21 on the crank) with the blue head and long LSN, it's just broken in. Great engine
When I got it, HSN was 3 turns out from closed (so not flush but about 0.5 mm in from flush) and LSN way out of flush.
So far I tuned it the way its described in this forum
ie: set idle gap to 0.7mm (actually it's more like 0.5mm now) max and then only tune LSN for steady idle and crisp acceleration and leaving the HSN alone for the moment
I was wondering if it tuned like the GX series, if the HSN had to be flush when you start tuning the engine with very little tweak afterwards or if the HSN non flush position was the normal factory setting with these older Go engines??
I can't really go further with the LSN as idle will start to rise after a few secs when the buggy gets to a stop with 1/4 left in the tank. LSN pinch is about 4 secs at 105 degres celcius
Thanks a lot guys
Francois
Sounds like you have one of the "Sport" motors.
The early GO two needle carbs with the long LSN all tune as you have described. The HSN stays around flush.
Set the idle gap to around .5 - .7 mm, then tune the LSN in for nice bottom end. The HSN only effects the top 5% - 10% of the power, so once you have the bottom right you can adjust the HSN for good WOT performance. Then return to the LSN and fine tune if you needed to lean the HSN at all.
With these carbs, if you start getting lean bog around the half tank mark, you are too lean on the HSN. Just richen a screwdriver blade width at a time until the lean bog goes.
Hope this helps
12-12-2013 | 02:19 PM
Tech Initiate
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 40
From: Les Sables d'Olonne, France
Hi Francois,
Sounds like you have one of the "Sport" motors.
The early GO two needle carbs with the long LSN all tune as you have described. The HSN stays around flush.
Set the idle gap to around .5 - .7 mm, then tune the LSN in for nice bottom end. The HSN only effects the top 5% - 10% of the power, so once you have the bottom right you can adjust the HSN for good WOT performance. Then return to the LSN and fine tune if you needed to lean the HSN at all.
With these carbs, if you start getting lean bog around the half tank mark, you are too lean on the HSN. Just richen a screwdriver blade width at a time until the lean bog goes.
Hope this helps
Sounds like you have one of the "Sport" motors.
The early GO two needle carbs with the long LSN all tune as you have described. The HSN stays around flush.
Set the idle gap to around .5 - .7 mm, then tune the LSN in for nice bottom end. The HSN only effects the top 5% - 10% of the power, so once you have the bottom right you can adjust the HSN for good WOT performance. Then return to the LSN and fine tune if you needed to lean the HSN at all.
With these carbs, if you start getting lean bog around the half tank mark, you are too lean on the HSN. Just richen a screwdriver blade width at a time until the lean bog goes.
Hope this helps
Thanks Grizz1 for your help
I really like Go engines
I see so should I turn out the HSN back to flush (around half a turn out from where it is now/factory setting to reach flush position) and keep leaning the LSN for more power through the bottom/mid range or should I leave the HSN as it is now from factory ?
If idle start rising up after a stop after a several seconds is it because LSN got too lean/what would be the signs of a too lean LSN? What do you think is the minimum temp to start tuning this engine?
Sorry for all the questions
Thanks a lot
12-12-2013 | 06:18 PM
Tech Elite
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,983
From: Auckland, New Zealand
Thanks Grizz1 for your help
I really like Go engines
I see so should I turn out the HSN back to flush (around half a turn out from where it is now/factory setting to reach flush position) and keep leaning the LSN for more power through the bottom/mid range or should I leave the HSN as it is now from factory ?
If idle start rising up after a stop after a several seconds is it because LSN got too lean/what would be the signs of a too lean LSN? What do you think is the minimum temp to start tuning this engine?
Sorry for all the questions
Thanks a lot
I really like Go engines
I see so should I turn out the HSN back to flush (around half a turn out from where it is now/factory setting to reach flush position) and keep leaning the LSN for more power through the bottom/mid range or should I leave the HSN as it is now from factory ?
If idle start rising up after a stop after a several seconds is it because LSN got too lean/what would be the signs of a too lean LSN? What do you think is the minimum temp to start tuning this engine?
Sorry for all the questions
Thanks a lot
If it lean bogs then richen to the top end a little at a time until it comes right.
With the long needle LSN's this needle controls the fuel delivery from idle up to around 90% WOT, so yes, most of the bottom and mid range tuning is done with the LSN.
Don't worry about temp. Tuning to a temperature is not a good idea.
Tune for nice power with good smoke. If the engine is performing well and not bogging down or going flat at WOT then it is in a happy place temp wise - whatever that particular temp may be. All motors will be a little different (due to fuel, plug, pipe, even driver style), so tuning by matching the temps of someone else's motor is a recipe for trouble.
Generally most motors will run between 95C - 115C at a race tune, but some can be higher and still be totally happy.
12-13-2013 | 10:19 AM
Tech Initiate
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 40
From: Les Sables d'Olonne, France
We never stocked the Sport motors, so if the factory setting is half a turn in, I would try that first.
If it lean bogs then richen to the top end a little at a time until it comes right.
With the long needle LSN's this needle controls the fuel delivery from idle up to around 90% WOT, so yes, most of the bottom and mid range tuning is done with the LSN.
Don't worry about temp. Tuning to a temperature is not a good idea.
Tune for nice power with good smoke. If the engine is performing well and not bogging down or going flat at WOT then it is in a happy place temp wise - whatever that particular temp may be. All motors will be a little different (due to fuel, plug, pipe, even driver style), so tuning by matching the temps of someone else's motor is a recipe for trouble.
Generally most motors will run between 95C - 115C at a race tune, but some can be higher and still be totally happy.
If it lean bogs then richen to the top end a little at a time until it comes right.
With the long needle LSN's this needle controls the fuel delivery from idle up to around 90% WOT, so yes, most of the bottom and mid range tuning is done with the LSN.
Don't worry about temp. Tuning to a temperature is not a good idea.
Tune for nice power with good smoke. If the engine is performing well and not bogging down or going flat at WOT then it is in a happy place temp wise - whatever that particular temp may be. All motors will be a little different (due to fuel, plug, pipe, even driver style), so tuning by matching the temps of someone else's motor is a recipe for trouble.
Generally most motors will run between 95C - 115C at a race tune, but some can be higher and still be totally happy.
Thanks for the tips Grizz1
12-17-2013 | 05:05 AM
Tech Initiate
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 40
From: Les Sables d'Olonne, France
Ok I think I get the hang of long lsn style by now, ran it today and it was good.
I get the feeling it's a pretty lean bottom end/pretty rich top end engine type. It's all in the idle gap/lsn combination isn't it?
I like the smooth power delivery, quite different from other engines
Thanks for the tips on RC tech!
I get the feeling it's a pretty lean bottom end/pretty rich top end engine type. It's all in the idle gap/lsn combination isn't it?
I like the smooth power delivery, quite different from other engines
Thanks for the tips on RC tech!
Last edited by Frans1978; 12-17-2013 at 05:30 AM.
12-17-2013 | 01:20 PM
Tech Elite
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,983
From: Auckland, New Zealand
Ok I think I get the hang of long lsn style by now, ran it today and it was good.
I get the feeling it's a pretty lean bottom end/pretty rich top end engine type. It's all in the idle gap/lsn combination isn't it?
I like the smooth power delivery, quite different from other engines
Thanks for the tips on RC tech!
I get the feeling it's a pretty lean bottom end/pretty rich top end engine type. It's all in the idle gap/lsn combination isn't it?
I like the smooth power delivery, quite different from other engines
Thanks for the tips on RC tech!
I posted it on our local forum. It starts about half way down the page - titled "The Average Woman Tune" a common problem.
http://www.rcracer.co.nz/Forum/viewt...4785&start=330
01-04-2014 | 09:52 PM
Tech Master
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,628
Came across these two pictures of this much awaited Cera, Go's new engine.
Got no idea what the internals look like, but as far as the exterior goes, looks like the "run of the mill" carb that they've been using for a long time now.
Personally I found that the bit that sticks into the crank case is a little bit longer than the 2-needle carb was, so the carb won't seat perfectly into the casings.. annoying.
Crank case looks like Arrow GTR crank case.. dunno why they'd want to use that, it was the weakest part of the Arrow GTR and kept cracking.
So correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm thoroughly underwhelmed so far.
The engine isn't even announced on their website. Strange. Maybe they don't even like it themselves.
Also.. priced at $245 on the website I found it on. Sounds a bit steep, maybe?
Got no idea what the internals look like, but as far as the exterior goes, looks like the "run of the mill" carb that they've been using for a long time now.
Personally I found that the bit that sticks into the crank case is a little bit longer than the 2-needle carb was, so the carb won't seat perfectly into the casings.. annoying.
Crank case looks like Arrow GTR crank case.. dunno why they'd want to use that, it was the weakest part of the Arrow GTR and kept cracking.
So correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm thoroughly underwhelmed so far.
The engine isn't even announced on their website. Strange. Maybe they don't even like it themselves.
Also.. priced at $245 on the website I found it on. Sounds a bit steep, maybe?
01-05-2014 | 05:38 AM
The 3 needle carb works pretty well if you know you to tune a 3 needle. I still have a 21GxII RHO. Keeps up with the best of them and parts are cheap. Otherwise, 2 needle is fine. Go just needs to get a reliable engine out for the right price. Why would I spend $245 for a go when I gen get a Nova Plus 4T for about the same price, and a nova will last me all season and the Go maybe not. Not trying to pick on go, but they need to get the act together if they want to compete in this hobby with loyal customers. If they had the New GHO for the right price, I think they would sell like hot cakes. OS and NOVA are 80 percent of the motor where I drive and Alpha are the other 15-20. I am the only one who still has a GO and most won't touch one even if they made a new one.
01-05-2014 | 11:20 AM
Tech Elite
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,983
From: Auckland, New Zealand
The 3 needle carb works pretty well if you know you to tune a 3 needle. I still have a 21GxII RHO. Keeps up with the best of them and parts are cheap. Otherwise, 2 needle is fine. Go just needs to get a reliable engine out for the right price. Why would I spend $245 for a go when I gen get a Nova Plus 4T for about the same price, and a nova will last me all season and the Go maybe not. Not trying to pick on go, but they need to get the act together if they want to compete in this hobby with loyal customers. If they had the New GHO for the right price, I think they would sell like hot cakes. OS and NOVA are 80 percent of the motor where I drive and Alpha are the other 15-20. I am the only one who still has a GO and most won't touch one even if they made a new one.
There have been some management up's and downs at GO over the last year, which is why things went slack for a while.
The Cera motor you mention is not going to happen - it was canned in the re-structure.
Check out the new GXII Plus on our website - http://www.go-racing.vpweb.co.nz/GO-GXII-Plus--21.html
There is a new US distributor now for GO. Read back a few pages for their details and email address. Bellgate Distributors.
01-05-2014 | 03:29 PM
Tech Master
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,628
And it is listed as in stock.
Whether or not this is "the" Cera that was supposed to be, is another matter, this looks like an Arrow GTR with a different heatsink head on it and a Cera label, if you ask me.
Maybe they just had a bunch of heads with Cera on them and wanted to use them..
01-05-2014 | 05:40 PM
I use to run Go engines long ago, back when the 5-port was the silver head...and luved them. They were a cheap, fast, long lasting, engine...if you changed the rod after break-in. Then they changed them and muffed everything up. The price I saw for the new GO is $265...even more then the popular Lutz engine. Before Go charges that price and wanting people to buy them...they will need to prove themselves all over again...its that simple.
01-05-2014 | 07:03 PM
Tech Elite
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,983
From: Auckland, New Zealand
Well, there clearly is one named Cera, as you can tell by the pictures.
And it is listed as in stock.
Whether or not this is "the" Cera that was supposed to be, is another matter, this looks like an Arrow GTR with a different heatsink head on it and a Cera label, if you ask me.
Maybe they just had a bunch of heads with Cera on them and wanted to use them..
And it is listed as in stock.
Whether or not this is "the" Cera that was supposed to be, is another matter, this looks like an Arrow GTR with a different heatsink head on it and a Cera label, if you ask me.
Maybe they just had a bunch of heads with Cera on them and wanted to use them..
The latest dealer price listings do not include the Cera range.
To the best of my knowledge as a GO distributor, this engine is not in production. There may be a few prototypes floating around out there, that would be all.