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Old 05-29-2009 | 12:11 AM
  #7021  
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thats my next motor i think a moded 7 port and then i have them all
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Old 05-29-2009 | 12:23 AM
  #7022  
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Originally Posted by grizz1
Talking standard motors - the 3 is a nice buggy motor. It is very linear in it's power curve, so is easy to drive. With the 0801 pipe fitted it is also very economical giving 10 min run time when fully broken in no problem.

The stock 5 is perhaps a little too much for a buggy. The modded 5's are very powerful, but most are modded to be a little softer on the power delivery down low so suit a buggy better.

7 Port is a wicked buggy motor - which you probably already know as your running one
7 Port = STUPID FAST......... had to turn my end points down to compensate for my crappy driving....... LOVE it, just got to get used to the power!
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Old 05-29-2009 | 01:07 AM
  #7023  
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Originally Posted by mattwoodcraft
thats my next motor i think a moded 7 port and then i have them all
Your a sick man Mathew
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Old 05-29-2009 | 01:54 AM
  #7024  
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I wanted to share what I found wrote by Massive

Hey All

Engine run in theory ala Massive

Please do not believe anything i say. please consult any good racing engine builder to confirm what im saying here. if they dont confirm what i say please find a better engine builder to consult.

Lets pretend we are all fantastic at tuning and have absolutely no faults occour outside the engine. If you run a new engine hard from day one and it pops in the first litre of fuel, there is a good chance that engine would have popped sooner or later because it has a material fault. Ask any engine builder that builds race engines full scale. Once its built they start it , warm it up, then cane the crap out of it, if it dosent pop then its right to race, if it pops they rebuild it. Why do they do that ? so it dosent fail them during a race .

Interesting thing i read in a manual for a 1984 BMW 328 is . and i quote

"Cold start engine please start and drive immediately !! do not idle engine for warm up "

Why do they state that ? because in Germany or Bavaria in winter they know that metals contract in the cold , in order for the engine to last it has to heat up , the quickest way to heat up an engine is to drive it or put load onto it. If you idle a cold engine you are prolonging the time it is exposed to being cold and contracted. Once its hot and expanded all the engine internals can work easily without stress because they have expanded.

Internal Combustion engines LIKE HEAT they thrive on it

In the case of ABC non ringed engines the engine relies heavily on heat to expand the case and sleeve. People normally equate heat with running lean. Thats what we have to get our heads around, that heat does not nessesarily mean an engine is lean. An engine is lean when it starves for fuel. Thats lean Bogging, thats bad for an engine.

If you run an engine say for the first litre of fuel at 100 deg c the case and sleeve will expand for that temp. after 1 litre of fuel the engine will have done on average about 960,000 revolutions. how i calculated that is

average 8 mins per tank @ an avearge of 15,000 rpm

125 ml tank

1 tank = 8 x 15,000 = 120,000 revolutions x 8 tanks = 960,000

By the time you have done almost 1 million revolutions the piston and sleeve would have bed in to the fit, goverend by the heat expansion @ 100 deg c. What happens when you start to race the engine ? you start to get to 110 c 120 c 140 c 160 c ... What happens to the piston seal at TDC when the case and sleeve expand further than what the engine is used to ?

the answer is, an engine that runs like a piece of doggy doo doo .. Not to mention that a newly squared piston top smashing into an un expanded sleeve.

Can you imagine bouncing on a trampoline at 15,000 jumps per minute with a concrete celing 1 foot above your head ? After close to 1 million jumps your head would be flattened , your knees and spine would be shot , then you are expected to run a marathon at the olympics... Its not gonna happen.
This is what kills rods and rear bearings. its like a jack hammer pounding these parts. then when you run them hard they pop because the damage was done during the run in period.

So !

When you run in an engine run it how you would in racing from day 1

Thats dosent mean run it lean, who on earth runs a race engine lean !? run it at a correct tune so that the engine is happy and consistant. get the engine used to what you want from it from day 1 then the poor thing wont get confused later in its life and throw all the toys out of the cot.

MASSSIVE
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Old 05-29-2009 | 02:06 AM
  #7025  
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Oh No .. there goes the neighbourhood !
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Old 05-29-2009 | 02:56 AM
  #7026  
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The mans a legend. Luv ya MM..... but not in a gay way... not that there's anything wrong with that.... like he says, any man can f*** a woman, but it takes a real man to f### another man.... man you crack me up!!


Pete.
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Old 05-29-2009 | 03:47 AM
  #7027  
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Originally Posted by Blackie001
The mans a legend. Luv ya MM..... but not in a gay way... not that there's anything wrong with that.... like he says, any man can f*** a woman, but it takes a real man to f### another man.... man you crack me up!!


Pete.
There is something truly deep in that statement (no pun intended ). But I can't quite get my head around it at this point in time.
Massive summing up on the advantages of the hot, swift, run it on the ground break in system Mark. Engine life and reliability has proven it the correct method in my experiance. Just gotta convince others who are still killing their motors and then complaining about the quality of them
Like they say "you can lead a horse to water, but you can't make it drink". That is oh so true.
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Old 05-29-2009 | 04:23 AM
  #7028  
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You'd have to hear him say it, I was laughing so hard I had tears rolling down my face.


Pete.
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Old 05-29-2009 | 04:42 AM
  #7029  
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thay was one of the best reads i have read in quiet some time
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Old 05-29-2009 | 04:43 AM
  #7030  
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Originally Posted by grizz1
Your a sick man Mathew
mmmmm i wonder if there is any help for me out there dont want it any way i love my addiction
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Old 05-29-2009 | 06:30 AM
  #7031  
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Default Where to get 2072?

From what I understand from reading - the 2072 is like the 0801 with the 2047 header? I am planning on purchasing this pipe for my 5p Turbo that I run in my RC8T. Does anyone know where I could purchase the 2072 in the US? I saw that massive mods has them with free delivery - but is the shipping time long?
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Old 05-29-2009 | 09:51 AM
  #7032  
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For anyone in the know, I just purchased a used 7-port GO and noticed that the button shims measured .4mm in total. I believe this may not be enough clearance. What is the stock and reccommended clearance (size in shims)? Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-29-2009 | 10:10 AM
  #7033  
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Originally Posted by HiVoltg12
From what I understand from reading - the 2072 is like the 0801 with the 2047 header? I am planning on purchasing this pipe for my 5p Turbo that I run in my RC8T. Does anyone know where I could purchase the 2072 in the US? I saw that massive mods has them with free delivery - but is the shipping time long?
Mark ships fast! I ordered some stuff and it was here in a matter of 3 days! Great guy to deal with.
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Old 05-29-2009 | 10:59 AM
  #7034  
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Is the 2072 pipe as fragile as the 0801? I wanted to buy a 0801 but everyone I have seen at a track has been dented.
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Old 05-29-2009 | 11:25 AM
  #7035  
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Default Ordered!

Just ordered the 2072 and a restrictor set from MM. I forgot about the AUD to USD conversion - that saved me $26! I'll report back when I have a chance to test the pipe and compare it to my current 053.
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