NO the 2072 is every bit as strong and well made as the 2047..reinforced stinger and nice thick looking chrome finish.only time will tell of course but it feels solid and not light and flimsy..

OK well so how does the 2072 run on a MM5 7 port in a buggy..EVERYONE GET ONE is the answer..oodles of power everywhere..lovely crisp scream as well..did two timed tankfuls today..7mm insert (still wheelspins at will and will lift the front wheels momentarily out of corners) in a kyosho mp777 buggy..OK perhaps not quite at full race scream in the technical sections as my only crash collector is my 4 year old son but full speed everywhere else and I got 12min 1sec and 12min 11sec...I'll do a couple more tomorrow as saturday the track should have enough people to act as collectors for proper insane driving..but 12 minutes is awesome..tempted to try a smaller insert but I don't see it breaking 15 min which is what it would have to do to remove a fuel stop in semi finals etc so why bother..racing near Rouen on sunday on an unkown track but I'm told it's smooth,very fast and not many jumps..even more reason to stay with the 7mm..

One thing I forgot to mention..Previous to today I'd begun having idle/stalling problems...not often but enough to be irritating as they always happen at the worst moment in a race.I set the idle gap to 0.8mm as usual reset the needles to hsn flush and lsn in 1.5t but I was having to constantly tweak the mix..maybe only an hour or two but it just wouldn't stay steady..so I took after reading a few recent posts here I took out the hsn for a look...OHMYGOD.. full of shite!! not sure if it was flaking from the o-ring or just dirt...removed carb for airline action and there was some similar crap around the o-ring in the base of the carb hole in the crankcase so I'm guessing the o-rings are degrading..cleaned up added a touch of silicone sealer and now it's rock steady again..Massive I'll be ordering some of your new nitrile o-rings along with the GO plugs real soon..

the new 2072 pipes all the way man i have got this pipe for my moded 3 port

Standard for the Gen 4 / Gen 5 motors is .5 mm of shims. Normally 1 x alloy .3mm shim and 2 x copper .1mm shims.
The head button has a 3mm step built into it, so in effect you have a total of .8mm head clearance. You can run up to 30% with this configuration.

You can reduce the head shimming if your running 25% or even 20% for more power, better engine temps, better run times and cooler pipe temps. I am running a total of .6mm (head button plus the 1 x alloy 3mm shim) on my modded 5 Port using 25% and it is sweet. Warmer head temps than before and crisper in performance, with slightly more run time too. You can also run a cooler plug with this reduced clearance. I switched from a P3 Ultrahot to an RB#5 Medium.
There is a realy good article on Massive Mods site called "Head shimming 101".
Here is the link. This should answer all your questions

http://www.massivemods.com.au/produc...roducts_id=192

Thanks for the info on the 2072 Giz. Sounds like another sweet GO pipe.
Nothing but good reports so far.

That blocked HSN due to the flaking O rings is quite a common problem it seems. Hard to track down too, as it can be very itermittant. That's why I changed all my needle O rings to fuel tubing ones. Got some of Marks new nitrile O rings on order though, as they sound like the ultimate cure Better stock up Mark, there could be a rush on those O rings

my 7 port that i was having crank case problem with ,an just got fixed back in my buggy didnt make it a race. i took it apart and found that the connecting rod was loose top and bottom i guess ill be sending it back to race factors bummer

Actually the newest GO pipe 2072 is best solid at produce process.
The GO 0801 was used different produce process to made than GO 2072,but material is OK.maybe it will has reinforce stinger in the future as below picture.

Different engine(BMW is 4 stroke engine)can not be compare RC 2 stroke engine.
RC engine must be heat before running every time.

I used to build full size race motors, you have to run them in for at least a 1/2 hour at 2000-3000 rpm and varying it often.

My feeling on the rc racing motors is to run them in like most mfg's suggest, avoid lots of rpm when new. The bearings, rod also need to be run in, I always take it easy on used motor with new bearings or rod in it.

Rex

thats what im talking about,good solid stingers on your exhaust
nothing worst haven a vew pipe and your mate smacks in the side bending your stinger

Just got back from a final tweak run at the track before departing for a race tomorrow where my beloved 7 port threw a rod..must have done it at the exact second it ran out of fuel as the tank was bone dry..stripped it down and found the rod as per phots but piston and sleeve totally unmarked..It was about due for a new rod and pin etc anyway so I slung them in and it fired perfect first time..If it dies tomorrow I have the 3 port as a backup..

i couldnt keep a tune and had tryed everything so i took the motor apart and saw that the rod had wear at the top and bottom hope its not happening to everyone get ahold of massive mods.

HYPOTHETICALLY

How much run time should a 7-port (Standard Plug)(A3 or 8)with a Dynamite 053 pipe, 6.0mm, Byrons 30% 11%oil

I'm probably way off on my tune because I'm getting temps at like 265+ with only 7-8min runtime once it warms up (cold it only gets like 5min). It bogs coming out of the corners just a bit, nothing too bad, and just awesome mid to top end. I just can't figure it out.

I wouldn't worry too much. I know from what I have read here that Giz looks after his motors very well, and like he said - it was due for replacement anyway.
These nitro motors are very high performance engines, and as such require the care and attention, and maintainence (regular & preventitive) of any high performance race engine. Because they are so tight when new it is paramount that the rod and wrist pin is changed at the two gal mark after break in. I change the bearings, rod, wrist pin and C clips every three gallons on both my race motors (not an expensive exercise with the price of GO parts), and have never had a problem. Plus I can then go racing with the confidence that my motors will perform flawlessly when I need them too.
A lot of guys just break their motors in, then expect them to run for 10 gal or more without even taking the backplate off and having a look for rusty bearings or anything. With a motor this size putting out close on 3 hp, it just doesn't work that way. If not maintained carefully, something will fail sooner or later for sure.
If the rod is getting sloppy, replace it straight away. Check for bearing slop or wear at the same time. I think the best policy is - if you change the rod because it's worn, then you should change wrist pin, clips and both bearings as well at the same time. Might sound like overkill, but better safe than sorry.


Sounds like you are too rich on the bottom (possibly with a wide idle gap) and too lean on the top. With your set up you should be getting around the 9 - 10 min mark I would have thought.
Set the idle gap to .7 - 1mm (use the pinch test method described by MMods on Page 431, 4th post down) then tune for LSN fisrt, then HSN, then revisit the LSN again to make sure it hasn't changed. The needles on these carbs are very sensitive so only adjust 1 hour at a time until you get it right.

If the rod is worn bad usually the crank is worn some too.

Rex

hey fletcher I have the go exact set-up as you and i cannot get over 8 minutes so dont feel bad. The motor is just ridiculous power. Raced against a modded go and it kept right with it no problem.