Just wondering if anyone has done anymore testing with the new GO 2103 pipe, I have to get a new pipe as I put my buggy sideways into a pine pole, stuffed my pipe, nearly broke the stinger off, it got pushed into my fuel tank & broke that to.
Thanks.

Double post.

New 2103 pipe is nice. Customers are liking it. Lots of mid and top end.
Nice bottom end too, but not as much as the 2072. Seems to have moved the power band more towards the mid range (this is on the new GXII Plus, which has more top end than the GXII-5RHO anyway).
2103 is a nice buggy pipe. The 2072 would probably still be my choice for truggy.

Thanks Shane, that sounds like the pipe I want, slightly less bottom & more mid to top should make my engine just right.
As my engine is the GX-5R but modified, I'm not sure how it would compare to the later stock engines, but its probably got to much power down low with the 2072, its more of a truggy engine I think.
It has great bottom end power & still very good mid to top as it is, & seems to keep up with other engines down the straights so the 2103 should make it just that little better & make the bottom end more controllable.

Do the 2103 pipes use the same manifold/header pipe as the 2072's or are they different, shorter etc, for the different power band.?

Thanks.

Header pipes are the same, so it's all in the chamber - which is smaller and a more traditional shape on the 2103 compared to the big volume 2072 chamber.

Couple of cosmetic changes to the header at the connections, but length and curvature are identical.

See pic - (ignore Arrow branding, it's the same pipe).

Thanks Shane, much appreciated,

I'm having trouble to run my go 5 port silver head after resting it for 3 weeks, it will die if WOT or run after few minutes. already changed a new OS p3 plug, have been leaning the LSN and not working, riching HSn also not working. Anyway it will run good with igniter on.

Is it good to tune it to factory setting? plz assist. thanks in advance

Anyone know where I can get a burn room for a .21 Go Engine R2100-M00HSG Sport off-road engine.

It's my basher engine for my 8.2. I stripped the glow plug on it recently and now I'm using my GX2 and don't want to use that for bashing since I won't be racing this year.

GO RC STORE in aliexpress do sale the thing u wanted, unfortunately I cant post link here.

I hear Rex at Rw Mods might be bringing in some RTR engines and parts. You can ping him to see if that information is correct (www.rw-mods.com).

I'm having trouble to run my go 5 port silver head after resting it for 3 weeks, it will die if WOT or run after few minutes. already changed a new OS p3 plug, have been leaning the LSN and not working, riching HSn also not working. Anyway it will run good with igniter on.*Is it good to tune it to factory setting? plz assist. thanks in advance.

I tried richening but no improvement.

i suspect the conrod the engine stil new with a tone of compression, or carburetor? Plz help

hello, anyone I need help for the problem I mention aboved. thanks

I suspect you have got the needles and idle gap well out of adjustment.
Take the air filter off, and the restrictor out of the carb throat.
Set the idle gap to .5mm, then re-install the restrictor and air filter.

Set both needles to flush with the needle bodies.

Start the engine. It should run with these settings, but it wil be rich and the idle will be low.
Lean the bottom end needle to bring the idle up to a reasonable level - DO NOT ADJUST THE IDLE SCREW.

Run the car around until the motor has warmed up and the really rich sound has cleared some - meaning the motor is getting up to temperature.
Now lean the bottom end as required for a clean take off - no rich blubbery sound.

Once you have acheived this, do some full throttle runs and adjust the top end needle for clean top end performance with smoke present. On this motor you should only require 2 - 3 HOURS in from flush - no more. The high speed needle is very sensitive to adjustment.

Once you have the tune were you want it THEN AND ONLY THEN adjust the idle either up or down slightly to acheive a nice steady idle.

Be aware, if you muck around with the idle screw during the needle tuning process you will get everything out of whack, and struggle to acheive a good tune.
Once you are confident with tuning and understand what is happening with the relationship between the idle gap and the low speed needle you can probably do both at once - but until then just set the idle gap, then tune around that, then adjust the idle gap at the very end when your happy with the on power performance of the motor.

Just to show a little video of my .25 GO Engine, on truggy nats last weekend.

I got 2nd place on A-Main and track record ... i just love this engine for truggy, you have almost all he .21 high end power with brutal .28 like torque ... :

http://www.rctech.net/forum/13112009-post1356.html

cya !