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Originally Posted by Flanno
(Post 8587188)
Does that mean the finned button can be used with the MG head ?
or the new finned button and new head fits the MG ? or the new head fits the old button ? he also said the crank would fit too but probably giving a little more bottom end snap at the expense of a bit of top end.I don't think my Mg66 needs any more bottom end ,and certainly not at the expense of the never ending top end :) |
Originally Posted by Gizmatron
(Post 8587332)
Was speaking to Mark this morning Flanno and he says the new button and head WILL retro fit the Mg66..Apart from maybe being a gram or two lighter though not sure why you'd want to bother.I did press him to get them made in black though with the MG logo..then I'd be interested..watch this space for that..
he also said the crank would fit too but probably giving a little more bottom end snap at the expense of a bit of top end.I don't think my Mg66 needs any more bottom end ,and certainly not at the expense of the never ending top end :) as typical boys and their toys, I'd still like to try it...the new button and head that is, to make up my own mind...but has to be black with red tho ;) |
I'll be interested to see what grizz1 has to say after he's run in the GX II and run it back to back against the MG66 in his 808..Personally I just can't see it being anything to tempt me to change motors.It would have to be a LOT better than the MG for me to swop.The MG is just so easy to drive.Bottom end grunt without the need for late engaging clutch..and top end forever..plus 11m30+ run times and that's with a 7mm venturi.I like the linear delivery too..none of that late surge the 7 ports give..just smooth all the way through the range.Enough to wheelie my 808 but with little or no wheelspin (well unless I want to mess around)I suspect the toro-nero's for example might give a fraction more overall power but that's no use if you can't get it onto the ground.
Let's hassle for a new style head/button in black n red though.. |
Hey guys, I talked to Alan Burton last night. When he gets his in, he's going to do a video one the engine. This includes disassembly and inspection, break in on the stand, car tuning, etc.
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Oh you'v just reminded me, :eek:
I'm still yet to do a set up and tuning video someone asked for months ago. OOPS. Been very busy and still trying to line up the video camera. When I'm ready, the video camera isn't available and when it is, I'm too busy, so we have trouble gettin together at the same time....it will be done tho .;) One day :lol: |
Originally Posted by Ruune
(Post 8587559)
Hey guys, I talked to Alan Burton last night. When he gets his in, he's going to do a video one the engine. This includes disassembly and inspection, break in on the stand, car tuning, etc.
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Originally Posted by grizz1
(Post 8589192)
If everything is the same tolerances as the GX (which I imagine it is), then I will be very interested to see how he manages to get the rod off a brand new motor before it is run without causing any damage :)
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Originally Posted by grizz1
(Post 8589192)
If everything is the same tolerances as the GX (which I imagine it is), then I will be very interested to see how he manages to get the rod off a brand new motor before it is run without causing any damage :)
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Originally Posted by grizz1
(Post 8589192)
If everything is the same tolerances as the GX (which I imagine it is), then I will be very interested to see how he manages to get the rod off a brand new motor before it is run without causing any damage :)
alternatively, use a zip tie like Robert said, but grip it with a pair of needle-nose pliers, then twist it around the pliers. when the zip is short enough, place something between the pliers and the case, then twist harder. The conrod will come off. |
Originally Posted by deadmancourt
(Post 8589270)
wrap a zip tie around the con rod with the back plate off and voala...or however its spelled:lol:.....
I guess it depends if itīs your motor or someone elses :) Ahh, a secret tool eh. Nice - any pics ? |
I probably have a gallon and a half through my GX on the buggy and I still can't get the rod off.Wanted to look things over and clean it up good but too tight.The wear seems to be great.The bearings are great.The engine is solid as a rock.I would like to see this crank removal tool though.
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Regardless of how you take apart a new Gx motor you must secure the crank from moving out. Putting a clutch on is probably the easiest thing to do.
There is a pic of my tool quite a few pages back. Rex |
Originally Posted by CHOAS
(Post 8590403)
I probably have a gallon and a half through my GX on the buggy and I still can't get the rod off.Wanted to look things over and clean it up good but too tight.The wear seems to be great.The bearings are great.The engine is solid as a rock.I would like to see this crank removal tool though.
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So when is the new GO engine going to be in the US this one looks good
http://i811.photobucket.com/albums/z...photos/go1.jpg http://i811.photobucket.com/albums/z...photos/go2.jpg http://i811.photobucket.com/albums/z...photos/go3.jpg |
Originally Posted by Marcus Falconie
(Post 8591220)
So when is the new GO engine going to be in the US this one looks good
http://i811.photobucket.com/albums/z...photos/go1.jpg http://i811.photobucket.com/albums/z...photos/go2.jpg http://i811.photobucket.com/albums/z...photos/go3.jpg |
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