I posted on your other thread.

Rex

the answer fly wheels or mugan fly wheels are the ones i mainly use i have the same problem with other flywheels like you say

Mugen flywheels FTW, Mugen everything FTW. It is a proven fact that GO engines run better in a Mugen. ;)


That is for all that dirty XRay talk on here lately. :lol::lol::lol::lol:

mugen..what a mugen then..sounds like the noise a German cow makes :lol::lol::lol:

we got 576 drivers in our league and I've never seen one..:eek:

True, I don't think his question has as much to
do with a GO engine as it does the car itself.
It is a Koyosho RTR, with a big RTR flywheel
and tall RTR engine mounts. A better answer
for him could probly be found on the Koyosho
threads. This site is getting to be more like the
RCU site every day and that sucks.

:lol: good one , my go techs never liked my mugens but seem to love my xray
dirty talk if differant cars is always good

Grizz, thank you! That's exactly what I meant. I went to Google images and did a search for Go engine images. Now I can practice identifying them!
:lol: :lol: :lol:

If anyone has info on even earlier generations, I'm still curious.

This might help a bit.

the Gen numbering system is something i introduced as a way to identify the different changes made to the engines. As i was asked to help develop the range it was a way for me to help categorise the evolution of the engine.

The first pic is of an early Gen 3 , the way to tell is the top of the engine has a solid finish. It had B21 on one side and the original Go logo on the other. No serial numbers yet. C 2005 to Dec 2006.

Pic number 2 is of a Gen 4 Case , change made was milled top , carb neck dimension change. exhaust port expanded. introduced SKF front bearing. New Carb , B21 and Original Go Logo still no Cerial number , head design change. C 2007 to may 2008.

Pic number 3 is a gen 5 case , Slightly larger exhaust porting side flutes. Sealed carb restrictor bolt, new case material introduced, cerial numbers introduced on right of engine then later on the left side, New Go Logo and R.21 on the other side , carb mould changed, New rod , introduced tini coating on pin and carb for some models, head design change. C May 2008 to June 2009.

Pic 4 is of Gen 5.5 case & MG case Change seals,, Carb neck changed, Coating of case, back plate coating , New carb material , seals , manufacture process , New lightened rod , new rod and crank dimensions , tini coating on pin , carb slide and crank , tolerance fit PS set from 6.5 to 6 mm , new head design from 10 to 11 fin except for MG model still 10 fin. June 2009 to present.


Some of the improvements have over lap to the dates supplied as far as internals are concerned. generally as an improvement was made and tested it was implimented.

Hoep this helps !

Cheers MM

header lengths
 

i know this has been brought up in the pass but i cant seem to find it.
Can someone tell me what differnt header lengths do. i have a 5 port and latter this month im going to a track with a long ass back stright. apparentley

usually the longer header the more torque, the shorter the header the higher rpm's the motor can reach. but always test also.

gezzzz i just thought i had a bent crank luckly for me a bearing shit its shelf. Anyway the clutch bell how much play should that have a 1mm backwards and forwards?

anyone got a link on flywheel chutch bell adjments how to get all the spacing right?

short header top end long header bottem end

Hey Jeff - I think it's time for a new GX-7R bro :nod:

You got bearings ? or send the old girl up to me for a re-fit ?

1 mm probably a little too much play. First up, shim between the rear bearing and the clutch nut so the gear mesh is spot on (use flywheel washers for any big adjustments here), but you should have at least 1 shim between the bearing and the clutch nut. Now fit the front bearing and install the bell. Shim up the front so when it's nipped up tight you have it spinning nice and free with just a smidge of play to allow for expansion when things heat up - say .25 mm ??. Hard to be specific with a measurement, just go on feel. It doesn't want to be too sloppy though.

Yep - the rear straight at Welly is pretty long (see pic) unless they have put a jump or something in to break it up a bit. It's actually got a slight curve at the end into a big daytona sweeper, but the curve can be taken at WOT and it´slightly down hill too, so the motors get a few revs on :). A short header on the 5 Port would be sweet.

as grizz1 said put a shim between the clutch nut and the inner bearing..DO MAKE SURE THIS IS LESS THAN 10MM DIAMETER.proper clutch shims are usually sold in packs of 3 thicknesses.5x8x 0.1,0.2,0.3..I can't tell you how often I set up clutches for guys at the track who have just slung any old washer in there.or one of those huge ones kyosho and others used to fit on old style 2 shoe clutches to stop the shoes rubbing on the bell..THE SHIM MUST TOUCH ONLY THE INNER RACE OF THE BEARING.if it is 10mm or larger it will rub on both the inner and outer races as the bearing turns and you will get friction,heat then either the washer will disintegrate or the bearing or both..slide the clutch bell and bearings on top of the shim and look at how much the crank end protrudes beyond the outer bearing.If it looks like 1mm or more you would be better to add a shim between the flywheel and the motor's front bearing.These are usually at least 1mm thick and better for large adjustments..once the crank is only protruding maybe .5mm or less check to see you have some clearance between the clutch shoes and the inside of the clutch bell.(if you don't use ventilated bells you have to guess this on feel)if there is a lot of clearance you are better to fit a thinner shim between the clutch nut and the inner bearing and thicker shims under the bell retaining screw.if it looks like the shoes are almost touching the inside of the bell then increase the shim thickness inside and less or nothing under the outer screw.I usually shim till I get a tiny amount of drag when spinning the clutch bell then remove .2mm..the difference should be obvious when you spin the bell by hand unless you fill your bearings with thick grease.(I do..:o)

I don't have a diagram but that pretty much cover it...