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-   -   Go-Tech Engines Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-nitro-engine-forum/177028-go-tech-engines-thread.html)

kaptain crash 12-30-2009 01:27 PM

Hey guys, just got my GX-7R today, ill break it in with the supplied plug.
After break-in i will be using byrons gen2, 25% nitro, what plug is everybody running for indoor tracks? "motoroma" thanks......

grizz1 12-30-2009 01:47 PM


Originally Posted by Maximo (Post 6782119)
Since 22Racer is a top level professional machinist I am going to believe him on this one...manufacturers like to make all sorts of claims, but the truth comes out when the measuring tools are used.... Go has not changed the bushing size on the rods, its that simple....make all the claims you guys want but the fact is they are measuring the same

Mark @ Massive..your a good dude, but your advice on measuring tools is horrible...Rex is using top of the line gear that is extremely accurate, his measurements are right dude..your Mitsuno tools are budget gear next to what Rex is using..... I am not trying to take sides here, but Rex is way ahead of you guys when it comes to tooling and measuring...So badly you don't even realize it ....


I would take Rex's word guys, he knows how to measure, likely much better then the guys arguing with him....He is a 25 year plus pro machinist ! I think he knows what he's talking about...and anyone trying to argue with him on this is just being silly

Sorry for putting this in, I don't like taking sides, but I know rex and the skills rex has and all I can say is I trust him way more then the the guys from GO on this one...

Thanks for your comments Maximo. It seems you know Rex very well, and he is obviously very talented and experianced in his field. I guess itīs a mystery then ?? Why would GO put out figures that are wrong. Doesn't really make sense. Still, if you have seen the measurements with your own eyes then you gotta go with what you believe to be correct. Guess it up to people to make up their own minds on this one. Anyway, if your looking at putting a new model rod into a motor thatīs two Generations old, you should maybe be looking at a new crank anyway (or even a new motor if funds permit), and why would you want to put an older style rod into a new motor when the improved rod is readily available ?? Perhaps itīs all a bit of a storm in a tea cup

kaptain crash 12-30-2009 02:48 PM

Can anyone here at least tell me about what page i should look at to find the info i need? Sorry dont feel like reading 644 pages of you guys fighting :lol:

Mathiew 12-30-2009 03:40 PM


Originally Posted by kaptain crash (Post 6784053)
Can anyone here at least tell me about what page i should look at to find the info i need? Sorry dont feel like reading 644 pages of you guys fighting :lol:


OD77T, OS P3 or Novarossi C5TF work good for my with the Byron 25%;)

MassiveMods 12-30-2009 04:50 PM


Originally Posted by REVX (Post 6781197)
The point is, don't speak on things you have no clue about. Assume there is a few people out there that are machinists and have no issue reading something that is not digital before you make suggestions.

Hey REV X

i think if you re read my post i wasnt saying that the gear was in accurate because it wasnt digital. The post states that READING digital gear with DIGITAL read outs is easier when you get past 0.01 incriments.

Cheers MM

MassiveMods 12-30-2009 05:02 PM


Originally Posted by 22Racer (Post 6776204)
I measured brand new rods right out of the package, Gx (pro)and older ones. I will measure some more though. The picture is just to show the bore guage not the actual rod, yes that one is used.

Mark, I posted that this bore guage reads down to .0001 inch or .003 mm, that is more accurate than .01mm as you stated. This bore guage I use is well over $1000.00 new.

Rex

Hey Rex

Penny Drop !

I think where the confusion is coming from is that the new dimensions of rod and crank pin were used in the Gen 5 engines before the GX 5.5 came out. Perhaps you were measuring these and found it strange that they measured the same ... Anyhoo its all good . I think if you can get your hands on a new gen 5 crank Pre June 2009 and measure it you will find the differences. The way to tell is the old crank behind the counter weight has a channel groove in it. The new ones dont.

Hope this clears things up.

Cheers MM

motomatt 12-30-2009 05:33 PM

This might be a good place to have all the different generations explained and or shown.

I started running Go engines 3 years ago and never looked back.
I became a Go dealer a month ago but I have to admit that I'm not familiar with all the different generations. So, Mark, Rex, or anyone that's been around from GO's origin, please enlighten me. I'm hungry for the knowledge/history of previous Go generations.

rageworks 12-30-2009 06:19 PM

Same here Motomatt, all I wanted was a list
or few pics showing the differences in measurements
of the last three or four generations of the GO engines.
It seemed to be a simple request that the so called
gurus with factory ties can't step up and answer. Mabey a
factory sponcered driver could get ahold of someone at the
factory a get us the answers. They could post the e-mail on
here.

22Racer 12-30-2009 06:33 PM


Originally Posted by kaptain crash (Post 6783743)
Hey guys, just got my GX-7R today, ill break it in with the supplied plug.
After break-in i will be using byrons gen2, 25% nitro, what plug is everybody running for indoor tracks? "motoroma" thanks......


Os P3, P4, / Od 97t,77t,
P4 is not quite as hot but will last longer, I use the 97t Od. but have used the 77t with no problems. I had trouble using Rb/ Nova plugs a while back and never tried them again, even a #5 didn't seem hot enough.

Rex

grizz1 12-30-2009 07:29 PM


Originally Posted by rageworks (Post 6784915)
Same here Motomatt, all I wanted was a list
or few pics showing the differences in measurements
of the last three or four generations of the GO engines.
It seemed to be a simple request that the so called
gurus with factory ties can't step up and answer. Mabey a
factory sponcered driver could get ahold of someone at the
factory a get us the answers. They could post the e-mail on
here.

Rage - Pics I can't do, but I have posted a list with the different measurements given to me between Gen 4 / 5 and Gen 5.5 / GX on here twice now, but nobody wants to accept them. Perhaps we found the glitch in the last couple of posts as to why your measurements appear the same, when in fact the older Gen 4 & 5 cranks and rods do differ from the new 5.5 and GX ones ?? If Rex can find and older unused rod or crank, then maybe we can lay this to rest.

motomatt 12-30-2009 07:37 PM

I'm not looking for specs so much as simply being able to identify which generation an engine is. My 1st Go was a modded B21 from Pro Twister Mods. It was a rocket. All since have been stock 21Rs.
Which generation? I have no clue.

rageworks 12-30-2009 08:05 PM

I think info like that should be made available on
the GO Engines U.S.A. web site. It sure would
help all the distributors out, huh?
Hey Runne (Trey), why don't you see if you
could get this info out to everyone? It may take
some time and effort to do, but it would also help
your distributors make you some more money.
If anyone in the U.S.of A. could get some info
from the factory for us, it should be you.

kaptain crash 12-30-2009 09:06 PM

thanks guys, was running p3s in my old go 7 port ill try that odonnell 97T its much cheaper .....this thing is to darn pretty :D

grizz1 12-30-2009 09:46 PM


Originally Posted by motomatt (Post 6785274)
I'm not looking for specs so much as simply being able to identify which generation an engine is. My 1st Go was a modded B21 from Pro Twister Mods. It was a rocket. All since have been stock 21Rs.
Which generation? I have no clue.

Motomatt - I can help you with Gen 4 onwards.

Gen 4
Plain cooling head with GO and 21 only on it. 5 Port was silver, and 7 Port was orangy gold.
Front of carb body all black. Carb end where the HSN body screws in was plain alloy (uncoated). Carb neck has plastic insert. Older standard RTR 28-0600 type con rod.

Gen 5
Plain cooling head with GO and 21 only on it, just like the Gen 4 and same colours. Front of carb body all black. Main difference externally is the carb end where the HSN body screws in. It is coated black, with just the flat end left alloy.
Internally it is the same except for a new soild carb body (no plastic insert) and the pinch bolt assembly is O Ringed on each end (same as all models from here on). Still has the older RTR 28-0600 type con rod.


Gen 5.5
Cooling heads were same colours, but had more writing on them. "Go Racing" etc, plus a flame design around the GO logo on the rear (exhaust) side of the cooling head. Carb is the same as Gen 5, including the HSN body being black with alloy end, but the 5.5 carb has a red and white sticker on the front of the carb body.
Internally it has the newer 5.5 crank, distinquished by the slightly bigger crank pin and the groove behind the counter weight area has been removed. There are some balancing changes too I believe, but not that the eye would pick up at a glance unless you knew exactly what to look for. It has the newer Pro con rod 21-0600, which is distinquished by grooved ends around the bushings.

GX Series
Pretty self explanatory with the orange head, coated crank, double O Ring HSN needle etc.

The very first 3 Port R Specs to come out were Gen 5 as above, with a coral red cooling head and a grey crankcase.
The Gen 5.5 3 Ports were the same as the 5 and 7 Ports with a coral red cooling head.

That's all I can tell you mate. It should be enough to distinquish the motors externally and internally, even if someone has swapped cooling heads etc.
Hope that is what you were looking for.

Lawson1024 12-30-2009 10:12 PM

Any idea which flywheel I can use on a 3 port Go sport .28? The one from my old Kyosho engine is too big, and fouls the carb. Also, where would I pick up a crankshaft/flywheel nut for 14mm? Again, mine doesn't fit

Cheers


James


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