Getting hold of a 97t plug is like getting hold of rocking horse manure over here, is there any other choices?
idle is going up and down erratically, I can sort the high rev from wot as its leaning out but its the tick over that has me worried.

i use a p3 plug, sounds like you have air leak

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...bo-Glow-Plug-1
they have them in stock as i bought 8 yesterday $4.99 each
are u getting any leakage around your carby boot on the slide ? a pin hole will do it !

Are you plugging the exhaust to stop the engine? This can be the cause of the blown plugs. Perhaps your conditions are different from my area, but when I'm well tuned my engine temps in the 250F range. 190 would be pretty rich for me. I presume you have read the tuning instructions at the Massive Mods website.

If you firmly grasp the flywheel, can you move the crank in or out? There is no oring or seal between the front bearing inner race and the crank. When the flywheel is installed it should pull the crank forward against the front bearing inner race. The shoulder on the crank should then provide an almost perfect seal and limit crank movement since it's now against the inner race and the collet is on the other side.

The flywheel was removed along with the collet when I leak tested it , hopefully then this leak will stop when assembled,
Have tried tuning MM method but always had problems, since changing seals and bearings though the method works again as it did when the engine was new, thought it could be rich with the low temp but the high revving when off wot says different,

Did not realise plugging the exhaust stinger could take out the plug, will stop it using the flywheel in future and see if it helps,

Looking for 97t plugs or other type in the UK as int postage makes them way too expensive.

Just a thought that has hit me, can not find any other leak on the engine but used a flywheel off another engine and wondering if it actually locking and sealing the crank against the bearing, will investigate this further as it could explain alot it it isn't.

Thanks for the advice

Ok i've got a question. I just noticed the lsn on the 3 port engine i have is a short needle (it does not stay in the throttle body when opened) and the previous owner had the lsn completely tight. It seemed to run just fine but i decided to richen it up abit and it still runs fine, in fact it doesn't appear to have changed anything or very little even with 1 1/2 - 2 full turns out from where it was. It creates smoke but only when past half throttle. Also richening the lsn doesn't seem to have any effect on the idle. Is this normal? I didn't have much of a chance to play around with it this morning i only ran about 1 tank through it. But it seems to have plenty of horsepower and runs very well. I'm just worried about long term damage as i'd like to be able to use this engine for at least a year or 2. Any help is greatly appreciated. Also a link to a guide or post where there is instruction on tuning the short needle carb would be great, unless of course its the same as tuning any other short needle carb. Thanks

That LSN is definitly lean if you are not getting any smoke until half throttle.
Check the idle gap is correct (.7 to 1mm) this may be why you are not seeing a difference when you turn the needles.
The short needle carb will tune just like any other motor. It's only the long needle version that is a little different.
The HSN settings on all the GO carbs is pretty sensitive, so very small adjustments only.
Set the idle gap. Set HSN to 1/2 turn in and LSN to 1 turn in. That should get you ball park with the short needle, then fine tune from there.
If it won't idle at the .7 - 1mm idle gap, lean the bottom end until it will idle - do not adjust the idle screw until you have the motor tuned.

It seems to idle pretty good, doesn't load up very easily. But yeah i think the lsn is very lean. I'll adjust it abit more this afternoon. On a side note the engine in general doesn't produce much smoke, but it may be abit lean overall so i'll richen things up and go from there. Thanks for the help. Love these go engine. They have oodles of hp and make things really interesting ;) It seems at times it'll turn my losi 8ight buggy every which way but loose. I could not imagine anyone ever needing more horsepower, its to the point where i think parts might start flying off it as i race around the track (or yard). I know one thing, my grass no longer needs to be cut and my backyard is damn near bare!

The high reving after WOT run (machine gunning) is normally associated with a lean top end / maybe rich bottom end combination, or a very lean bottom end.
With the erratic idle, if the idle goes from normal to high this usually indicates an air leak somewhere. If it comes in high and drops this indicates a rich bottom end with a too wide idle gap (and normally too lean a top end to compensate).

From what you have described it does sound like an air leak as already suggested. Do check the carb boot, and also the head bolts and pinch bolt. Don't crank too hard on the pinch bolt - just snug it up or you can dent the carb throat and end up with other problems.
Plugging the stinger will routinly kill plugs by over pressurising the cylinder. Flywheel is the best option.

Hey there guys, was wondering if anyone could tell me if the GO 5 port crank would fit the nova P5XS motor since the rod will work in the nova?
thanks

the better way to say this is... if the engine comes off a high speed run ( WOT ) and comes down in stages.. you'll hear it. too rich on bottom OR to lean on top. *FIRST*lean LSN slightly and slowly until it goes. or what grizz said about air leak.

otherwise richen top if it wont disappear via leaning LSN.

should. as alot here buy a nova and run it into the ground then swap the internals for GO GX

The main reason the motor does this is the wide idle gap (masking the rich bottom end). It's the idle gap that is key here.
If you don't reduce the idle gap you will be chasing your tail all day for a tune. Adjusting the needles without reducing the idle gap will most likely not fix the problem. This situation of the wide idle gap / rich bottom end nearly always results in the HSN being too lean, because this is the only way the motor can run with such a rich bottom end (remember the HSN regulates the amount of fuel the LSN receives). The motor will run OK, but not to it's maximum performance. Quite often you will notice the motor lean bogging at the bottom of the tank and coming in hot. Another tell tale sign of the wide idle gap / rich bottom end is the motor holding it's revs and screaming when you go over a jump.
With the correct idle gap / mixture the motor should come in after a run and idle nicely straight off, then slowly load up over a period of time.

Hi Babygrand48
I think your pipe maybe was GO brand.It's normal stinger.If possible Could you try APlus 0801 with reinforce stinger?
If ok.Please contact with Mr.Carlton by [email protected] e-mail address.He will send you new 0801/reinforce stinger.His stock on pipes I will resend one to him.
Any problems for pipe.You can contact with me directly by [email protected]:)

abused mine hard today... brung it in... it sat an idled FOR EVER... soo low too at .7mm untill my radio ran out of power... stupid batteries.