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-   -   Go-Tech Engines Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-nitro-engine-forum/177028-go-tech-engines-thread.html)

MAGPIE-121 07-05-2010 03:08 PM

i use thick zipp ties with a bit of oil on the pin after sleeve is out, never use a metal tool on your rod !!!;)

Flanno 07-05-2010 03:08 PM


Originally Posted by hobdog (Post 7630140)
I just wanted to share my experience from yesterdays club race. I put my go 5 prt in my mbx6t. This engine has been sitting as a back up and I really haven't run it much at all. My regular engine is getting some work done. I finally spent some time on tuning, because I put a nova carb on it, and have only ran it once since then, and never really got it running correctly. This is the old siver headed engine. This thing screams! I was even running a strange pipe choice on it (THS) which turned out to be pretty good, but to get more milage out of it I am thinking of going with a 086. I also have a 053 with a kinked nova header 41005 that I was wondering if it might give me even better milage. Is anyone, or I guess I should say, did anyone ever get a solid 10 min. pit in truggy with this engine? If so, what was your setup. With the THS pipe I was getting around 9 min. runtime on a large track. I just wanted to express how good the engine was. I loved how there was no weird powerband to it. It was a consistant, strong pull from top to bottom.

AARCMCC 2009 Truggy Nationals Adelaide 15+min :nod:

then packed away to run MG66 full time. ;)

Just 2 weeks ago MG66 finally died after 62 litres on the original rod so pulled out trusted old 5 port to finish the meet at LRRCC NSW, did a 1 stop 25min Amain. with a GO 2072 pipe.

on C2AmainBlueDot 25%.

grizz1 07-05-2010 04:51 PM


Originally Posted by Flanno (Post 7631403)
AARCMCC 2009 Truggy Nationals Adelaide 15+min :nod:

then packed away to run MG66 full time. ;)

Just 2 weeks ago MG66 finally died after 62 litres on the original rod so pulled out trusted old 5 port to finish the meet at LRRCC NSW, did a 1 stop 25min Amain. with a GO 2072 pipe.

on C2AmainBlueDot 25%.

Your a legend Flanno :D

hobdog - sounds like you have a Gen5 or 5.5 5 Port. Other than the GO 2072 pipe which would be the recommended choice, the 086 pipe you have will work great on the 5 Port, with good milage too. Give it a try and report back.
The 053 pipe you have is better suited to the GO 7 Port motor.

hobdog 07-05-2010 05:27 PM

Thanks guys, I will give the 086 a try.

grizz1 07-05-2010 06:28 PM

I find a thin cable tie works really well for getting the rod off too.
Plastic won't damage anything if you have a little mis-cue :(

Getting the rod back on can also be a bit tricky. If your doing the bearings as well, what you can do is fit the main bearing only then install the crankshaft.
Now without the front bearing in, you can get the little bit of movement you need to pop the rod back on easily. Once the rod is fitted and sleeve put back in fit the front bearing using the crank as a guide. Install the new bearing after heating the crankcase by placing a used bearing on top of it, then tap the new bearing home with something suitable (hollow tube placed over the crank end with the same diameter as the bearings is cool).
Of course if your just changing the rod and not doing the bearings, this is of little use :cry: - so you just have to get that rod back on as carefully as you can. I have toyed with fitting the wrist pin and clip through the exhaust port, but this is very tricky, and I really do like to make sure the wrist pins are fully seated with a magnifier - just to be 100% sure, because we all know what happens if they come out :flaming:.

matrixmike28 07-05-2010 06:52 PM

I got the rod off, thanks for the help guys. In the end I basically just had to man handle it a bit. Putting the new one back on was even more of a challenge. I figured out that tapping it back on using a wodden dowel was the ticket. I really dont like putting anything to a rod but damn, it was starting to get really irritating.

I was really surprised that after sitting submerged in water for 4 hours that there was no rust. Regardless I changed the rods and bearings. I also took the carbs apart and cleaned them out with fuel. they are both running like new again.

Andrew_67 07-05-2010 07:54 PM

I am looking for the factory settings for the 5 Port.


Thanks !!

grizz1 07-05-2010 09:44 PM


Originally Posted by matrixmike28 (Post 7632360)
I got the rod off, thanks for the help guys. In the end I basically just had to man handle it a bit. Putting the new one back on was even more of a challenge. I figured out that tapping it back on using a wodden dowel was the ticket. I really dont like putting anything to a rod but damn, it was starting to get really irritating.

I was really surprised that after sitting submerged in water for 4 hours that there was no rust. Regardless I changed the rods and bearings. I also took the carbs apart and cleaned them out with fuel. they are both running like new again.

Glad your motors where all OK ;)

I think a gentle tap with a wooden or plastic dowell is how most of the new GX rods go back on until around the 2.5 - 3 gallon mark when the tolerances are a little more forgiving :nod: So don't feel too guilty.


Originally Posted by Andrew_67 (Post 7632681)
I am looking for the factory settings for the 5 Port.


Thanks !!

GX factory settings are

Idle gap .7mm - 1mm
HSN flush
LSN flush

For a base tune, go in .5 of a turn on the LSN and start tuning from there.
Don't adjust the idle gap if the motor won't stay running - lean the LSN until it will idle at the idle gap recommended.

You will most likely have the long needle carb. If you want tuning tips on this please PM me for details.

Redvet79 07-06-2010 06:05 AM

Con Rod Tool
 
It's a zip tie for me from now on . Great idea.
See old dogs can learn new tricks LOL!!

22Racer 07-06-2010 02:48 PM

When taking a rod off a fairly new engine make sure you have a clutch on it to hold the crank back, it will try to come out with the rod.

Rex

bigmatt 07-06-2010 03:19 PM


Originally Posted by 22Racer (Post 7636094)
When taking a rod off a fairly new engine make sure you have a clutch on it to hold the crank back, it will try to come out with the rod.

Rex

Hi Rex, do you plan on having a web site with pricing and such?

BiggB0SS 07-06-2010 03:34 PM

If any one can help I need a new rod for a GO7.

bigmatt 07-06-2010 06:04 PM


Originally Posted by BiggB0SS (Post 7636262)
If any one can help I need a new rod for a GO7.

need to know what gen go-tec 7 port your running. 22 racer has a email address on the go engine usa web site, there are some others here that sell also

22Racer 07-06-2010 06:11 PM

Yes I have rods.
Matt, I would like to get a site up but I'm pretty bad at that sort of thing. I actually just do it for some side money for racing. If I got too busy it probably would take too much time and be no fun.

Rex

grizz1 07-06-2010 06:51 PM


Originally Posted by 22Racer (Post 7636881)
Yes I have rods.
Matt, I would like to get a site up but I'm pretty bad at that sort of thing. I actually just do it for some side money for racing. If I got too busy it probably would take too much time and be no fun.

Rex

Hi Rex.
With your expertise, and the number of guys in your neck of the woods wanting GO parts all the time I reckon a small do it yourself web site woud be fantastic for you. There are plenty of companies offering simple 5 - 15 page sites that you can put together and edit yourself, with no more computer experiance needed than posting text and pictures on here.
I used Vista Print, an international company for my do it yourself site. Cheap, effective, and I would say after 6 months that 70% of my business either comes directly from, or is refered to me by web site visits from customers, old and new.
I am in a similar situation where I work a full time job (shift work) and the business I run on the side pays for all my racing and a little bit more on a good month :) It's still fun at the moment, but I do know where you are coming from after running other businesses in the past. If it's not fun anymore, then it's time to move on :cool:


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