Go-Tech Engines Thread
#7111
i have an eb mod go engine with the full mod;broke in by ed and dynoed and tuned by him..
its perfect! ran it for 3 heats and decided to go brushless. just dont have the time for nitro. it idled like a car engine;too much power for my truggy. nice engine.
gonna sell all my nitro stuff in the for sale forum this week.
its perfect! ran it for 3 heats and decided to go brushless. just dont have the time for nitro. it idled like a car engine;too much power for my truggy. nice engine.
gonna sell all my nitro stuff in the for sale forum this week.
#7112
Like 22Racer said, lean it just a bit for the smaller restrictor (less air flow requires less fuel). You may want to look at reducing the head shimming slightly too. Don't know what motor or nitro % you are running, but if your running 25 % or lower, dropping the head clearance by say .2 mm and then going to a slightly cooler plug will get you a bit more run time too.
#7115
A little more info would help on the motor choice, car/truggy, driver ability, track and track surface etc.
I recommend the 3 port race for the beginner to intermediate racers, it is just very smooth but still fast enough to win at the expert/pro level.
Most advanced racers want a little more bottom end than the 3 port has, at least around here. I think the best buggy motor is a retimed 5 port. I charge $15.00 to retime a motor, it makes the 5 port smoother on the bottom and gives it more top end. Fuel mileage seems to have improved also. Best thing is it can be put back to stock easily if you need more bottom end.
Rex
I recommend the 3 port race for the beginner to intermediate racers, it is just very smooth but still fast enough to win at the expert/pro level.
Most advanced racers want a little more bottom end than the 3 port has, at least around here. I think the best buggy motor is a retimed 5 port. I charge $15.00 to retime a motor, it makes the 5 port smoother on the bottom and gives it more top end. Fuel mileage seems to have improved also. Best thing is it can be put back to stock easily if you need more bottom end.
Rex
I race buggy and truggy..Most likely it will will be mounted in a buggy most of the time and mounted in a truggy on occasion.........I race on tracks all over california so a specified track surface can`t be said....I can say that most pf the tracks are in the medium size range..Nothing here big like The Farm or Nitro Pit...I am a fast intermediate/slow pro driver..I know how to use everything a motor has to offer...Right now I`m running a JP mod OS v spec.....
Mike
Last edited by rossoh10; 06-07-2009 at 11:42 PM.
#7116
Dunno why, but I have a hard time getting my head around the temps on this motor. Guess its because every nitro I've run so far is better to be around 230-250 tops. I see 250 (still breaking it in) and I freak a little bit.... I need to keep reminding my self, its OK Bear, its OK
#7117
Dunno why, but I have a hard time getting my head around the temps on this motor. Guess its because every nitro I've run so far is better to be around 230-250 tops. I see 250 (still breaking it in) and I freak a little bit.... I need to keep reminding my self, its OK Bear, its OK
#7118
can anyone tell me if the engine blocks are the same between the 5 port and 7 port ? i have a damged 7 port block but a good 5 port block which i would like to put the piston and sleeve into ?
#7120
Tech Rookie
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 9
do any of u guys have any monsters that i can trade for im from thunder bay
#7121
#7122
I charge $15.00 if you send me the piston and sleeve, $35.00 if you send me the whole motor. (includes any work needed) Both prices include shipping back to lower 48 Us.
Rex
#7123
Just a bit of help for you

Pete.
#7124
22racer
I race buggy and truggy..Most likely it will will be mounted in a buggy most of the time and mounted in a truggy on occasion.........I race on tracks all over california so a specified track surface can`t be said....I can say that most pf the tracks are in the medium size range..Nothing here big like The Farm or Nitro Pit...I am a fast intermediate/slow pro driver..I know how to use everything a motor has to offer...Right now I`m running a JP mod OS v spec.....
Mike
I race buggy and truggy..Most likely it will will be mounted in a buggy most of the time and mounted in a truggy on occasion.........I race on tracks all over california so a specified track surface can`t be said....I can say that most pf the tracks are in the medium size range..Nothing here big like The Farm or Nitro Pit...I am a fast intermediate/slow pro driver..I know how to use everything a motor has to offer...Right now I`m running a JP mod OS v spec.....
Mike
#7125
Well I just got done changing over the con rod in my ebmodded 5 port. also did the wrist pin and snap rings. I also put on a gen 5 or 5.5 carb, has the red go in the front.Talk about a monkey fk'n a football! I am surprised the thing runs. Grizz thanks for the instructions on how to do this. Thank god I did not erase your email message. The biggest thing I fk'd up was taking the sleeve out. I put the zip tie through the back of the exhaust port, instead of down the cylinder to catch the lip of the cylinder. Got it all done and the engine did not want to run. I put in 20% nitro,this one likes 30%. still no go, switched carbs put in an os p-4 plug 20% nitro thing rips. This engine now that it is fully broken in and tuned is way to much for me let alone a buggy. I may put it in my wife's x1x jammin as it is heavier then the hyper 8.5 that the engine is in now.I am going to have to think about it. I may try it in my x-2 jammin and see how it makes that buggy react. I'm going to reseal the old carb with the seals I got from massive mods make sure it runs good and holds a tune then sell it. I am thinking 165.00 shipped lower 48 only. This really belongs in a truggy.




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