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Old 05-25-2009 | 02:34 AM
  #6976  
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How often do you change hsn oring?

Yesterday I couldn't understand why I can't hold a tune....found that hsn is slooowly turning out from vibration, from visual oring was "sort" of ok, I changed it few months ago and for extra security added green slime.

What really hold hsn from easy turning, oring or hsn housing?

Thanks.
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Old 05-25-2009 | 02:46 AM
  #6977  
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Ohh,

Forgot to share info about how important is to have correct idle gap..

Yesterday we went to European championship race of autocross for promoting RC hobby with demonstrating and explain to people what is what.

One of my colleagues with 7port, before this event bought different drills like .5/.6/.7 etc. and he changed idle gap from about .9mm to .6....and we got a beast... seriously
He said, he never had that kind of response from his engine...never
And he did not touch carb the rest of the day.

So, one more happy Gobeliever
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Old 05-25-2009 | 03:44 AM
  #6978  
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Originally Posted by spura
How often do you change hsn oring?

Yesterday I couldn't understand why I can't hold a tune....found that hsn is slooowly turning out from vibration, from visual oring was "sort" of ok, I changed it few months ago and for extra security added green slime.

What really hold hsn from easy turning, oring or hsn housing?

Thanks.
It's the O ring that holds the HSN needle firm. If it's loose then replace the O ring, or do what I do and use an O ring sized bit of fuel tubing to replace the O ring. The tubing needs no lubricant, is fuel resistant, and gives a nice easy to turn needle that is firmly held in place.
There is a post on this about 10 or so pages back regarding cutting it to the right size etc. If you can't find it just PM me and I will explain. I run tubing on both my motors (HSN and LSN) and never have a problem.

That idle gap is key for sure. If it's too wide it can really foul the tuning up. It's because changing the idle gap directly changes the LSN setting, as your moving the LSN needle in and out with the throttle slide.
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Old 05-25-2009 | 04:25 AM
  #6979  
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thats a good point i have never really thought about the idle gap very much just tuned i iwll be checking mine a little closer now

what agp you running grizz .6?
i thought the new orings out for these carbs had rectified any problem of the needles turning while racing ?

racing in the mud so much fun while racing but sucks when you have to clean and rebuiled your car
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Old 05-25-2009 | 04:48 AM
  #6980  
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Thanks Grizz1, just found on page 438

Will try..
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Old 05-25-2009 | 05:20 AM
  #6981  
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just to let you all know i have engine heads in stock ready to ship.cnc machined .the are $50 and are crossdrilled.

[email protected]
717-342-8290
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Old 05-25-2009 | 05:51 AM
  #6982  
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what do these heads look like ? have any pics
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Old 05-25-2009 | 06:56 AM
  #6983  
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I've been trying to find a GO .21 5 port this past week with no luck. everywhere it is out of stock and the ones that are in stock cost $70 more than Amain does and I really dont want to have to pay that extra 70 if i don't have to. Anyone know where i can get one for the same price as Amain hobbies?
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Old 05-25-2009 | 09:42 AM
  #6984  
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Originally Posted by Blackhawk4
I've been trying to find a GO .21 5 port this past week with no luck. everywhere it is out of stock and the ones that are in stock cost $70 more than Amain does and I really dont want to have to pay that extra 70 if i don't have to. Anyone know where i can get one for the same price as Amain hobbies?
The only place I could find was carlinasrc:

http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...idproduct=3886
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Old 05-25-2009 | 10:12 AM
  #6985  
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The Donut racing heads are sweet, I am gonna try 1.
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Old 05-25-2009 | 10:17 AM
  #6986  
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Rex,

Do you have any of the new Gen 5.5 carb sets? The carb I have is weird because it tunes like the long needle, but pulls out just past halfway ala the intermediate. A former sponsored driver for GO tuned it for me a few weeks ago and had the high speed needle out about 4 complete turns from flush!
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Old 05-25-2009 | 10:26 AM
  #6987  
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No I don't have any carb sets, I do have a brand new sport carb, they are aluminum body though.
You could maybe have an air leak or some dirt in the needle or carb?

Rex
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Old 05-25-2009 | 12:51 PM
  #6988  
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Originally Posted by 22Racer
No I don't have any carb sets, I do have a brand new sport carb, they are aluminum body though.
You could maybe have an air leak or some dirt in the needle or carb?

Rex
go back a few pages. I had same problem with the hsn. held paper towel under hsn opening with needle out and blew through the tube that connects to the muffler[pressure line] out came some more rubber particals. put back together runs fine.
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Old 05-25-2009 | 06:51 PM
  #6989  
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Hey everyone. Couple of ?'s
I have a caster grenade engine. I've been told it's a go 5 port. Is this correct?
Are you guys running the go carb? If not what carb?
My motor has around 3/4 gallon on it and still extremely tight. I heat the block and head to 200 degrees before starting and make sure piston is down when finished. I sealed engine with sensor safe sealant.
Question is what temps should I expect?
Thanks for the answers.
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Old 05-25-2009 | 07:04 PM
  #6990  
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Originally Posted by Dummer40
Hey everyone. Couple of ?'s
I have a caster grenade engine. I've been told it's a go 5 port. Is this correct?
Are you guys running the go carb? If not what carb?
My motor has around 3/4 gallon on it and still extremely tight. I heat the block and head to 200 degrees before starting and make sure piston is down when finished. I sealed engine with sensor safe sealant.
Question is what temps should I expect?
Thanks for the answers.

I have never had one apart but I'm sure it's a 5 port. I have 3 different gen Go carbs with no problems with any. If it has the long low speed needle I would shorten it, the long lsn never comes all the way out at wot. (looking in the carb)

It is good you heat up the motor, it will help it last longer, on the 5 port it starts making good power around 240 deg. we run it up to 280 at times.

Rex
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