I have an eb modded 5port gotec. I read the head shimming thread. I took out all of the shims, had 2. One was thick and 1 was thin.I put the dial gauge on the thinner of the 2 and set it. then I tried to put the other head shim into the slot on dial indicator. would not go because it was thicker. the dial on my caliper tool is broke and i have yet to replace it.so my question is what sizes do the head shims come in? I put the thicker of the 2 back in and had too re tune engine. the head temp went up some but the pipe is still hotter then the head. I am running sidewinder 30% with os#3 turbo plug and a dynamite 086 pipe. also I am not using temp gun to tune just to make sure I am going in right direction. One other thing, the engine after fully warmed up and tuned in was easier to drive. a LOT more controllable power. I know I am new here but I would like to say thank you to all the regular's of this thread. You have no idea how much I have learned and am still learning about this engine.

Rule of thumb use to be 1 copper and 1 silver on the stock GO's. The 3rd one was for breaking in.
I have not bought any GO's past the 7port. But this is the way I did/do it for 30%.
I still have and love my Go's but I am on NR kick ATM, please forgive me

Hi, I am new to the thread but I have read most of it and picked some great info. I want to say I have a Go 7p stock and just bought a 5p from EB. I went up to see Ed at EB and was very impressed by him and his knowledge of these motors. He gave me all the info I needed to run his race prep. He also gave me a tour of his shop and explained the entire process his motors go through. I have now put 5 tanks through the 5p and it is getting faster by the tank. I will definitely do more business with him he is a first class operation.

so what are you using for head shims? on the 5 port.

bigmatt--you do not have to change the shiming on your head for the ebm5.its set and ready to go for 30% fuel.moving head shims will change timing a little bit.i suggest you call ed to find out the correct stock shimming . i would open one of mine up but im lazy.that is modded engine designed to run with the exact settings it came with ,your defeating the purpose of buying a modded engine.if its to much power adjust radio endpoints to fit your needs.
just trying to help .want to see you get full benifit of engine,

mine is an early 2008 eb mods engine, not the newer black one's that are out. after reading the thread shimming 101 by massive mods, I was thinking I had to many shims in. head cool, pipe hot. when I took out the thinner of the 2 shims head hotter pipe cooler power awesome.

bigmatt, I agree with donut92673. You should not change the settings of the shims. He set them very carefully to get the best performance and smoothness. If its to fast lower your endpoint. I have mine set at about 70% and there is enough power to pass the vspecs that I am racing with at out track.

Are any of you guys going to FHR in NJ this saturday. There are over 33 buggy's coming and 22 truggies?

Any word on getting con rods, wrist pins and g-clips
here in the U.S.? It looks like the cost of a Novarossi
rod is only a little more than ordering the GO rods all
the way from Stralia. If it will make anyone feel a little
better, I made a call to a modder who has sold us alot
of Go engines,here in the U.S. and he isn't to friggin
happy about the situation either. He was very concerned
that he was letting his customers down and couldn't do
a damn thing about.

I've ordered Rods 2 times in March from Russell and he says he has lots of them, also got clips and pins. Apparently other dealers need to order them?

Rex

You need to be careful with shimming modded motors, they may have changed timing and your headshims would be different. Always get ahold of the person that modded it and ask them. For instance the Ebm5 Race prep has different shimming than the Full mod.

Rex

If he's the US distributor why isn't he pushing them out to places like Amain and other e-tailers?

BTW.. I sent you money for a conrod.

guess I'll put it back in, my motor is an older model. I am thinking early 2008? from what I can compute from what mark at massive mods has stated about the built in head clearance, if I took out a .001 shim and left in .002 shim, the engine started with .003 means I've got .005 head clearance. but from what everyone is saying it being modified might be best to leave alone.

If you have a caliper head clearance is easy to do. Put the piston at top dead center, it helps to have the backplate off and make sure the rod is centered. Do this with the head on and tight, glowplug loosened might help.
Take off the head, measure from the top of the sleeve down to the piston. Then subtract the measurement on the button from the cumbustion chamber down to the shims. Stock a Go will be around .035 inch clearance, you should have between .026-.030 for max performance with 30%.

Rex

Re Shimming

the 101 is a guide so you can make informed experimentation with your go engine. The only way to see what works for your set up is to experiment with different plugs and head shimming. Remember what may work for one person may not nessesarily work for your particular set up.
And the good advise is to contact your engine modifier for particular advise on that engine. They are the best person to help you with this.

MM