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Originally Posted by will g
(Post 4578353)
tony
hey i ran a go 2047 with my .25 the other day at the nitro pit and it ran around 280-285 and it ran awesome had tons of power all around may want to try that. i have dyn 053 and it ran ok with it till i stuck on the go 2047 thnx will g see you at the track Seems like everyone is saying the that go tech pipe is the way to go with this engine. Luckily I have one on order. Athough, I'm a little concerned about the engine temp you have listed. I usually run mine at 230 - 260. |
mine likes the hotter its got right at 2 gallons on it it seems like @ 230-240 has no power not sure why but i get pretty good fuel milage as well i got around 8 1/2 mins on last run
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Originally Posted by Akhor
(Post 4578464)
Seems like everyone is saying the that go tech pipe is the way to go with this engine. Luckily I have one on order.
Athough, I'm a little concerned about the engine temp you have listed. I usually run mine at 230 - 260. |
Does Go-tech make a inexpensive, yet reliable .21 I can use in an Rc8 that I will be getting soon. Will be my first 1/8. If anybody knows a part # and where I can get it.
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Originally Posted by Dasupacat1
(Post 4581415)
Does Go-tech make a inexpensive, yet reliable .21 I can use in an Rc8 that I will be getting soon. Will be my first 1/8. If anybody knows a part # and where I can get it.
http://www.holeshothobbies.com/servl...1R-SPEC/Detail |
Originally Posted by skeller
(Post 4578117)
The M2C 4 shoe clutch will not fit the Go engines.....the skirt on the back of the flywheel won't fit over the crankcase.
T |
Originally Posted by Dasupacat1
(Post 4581415)
Does Go-tech make a inexpensive, yet reliable .21 I can use in an Rc8 that I will be getting soon. Will be my first 1/8. If anybody knows a part # and where I can get it.
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I know that this has been asked 1,000,000 times, but can somebody just quickly post the approx. needle settings (break-in and race) if possible for the .25 6 port? Thanks!
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Originally Posted by Furadi
(Post 4582328)
The 3 port sport is a great motor for 125.00 on amain. Mine has lasted 8 gallons so far and it runs strong. If your not racing on a track with really long straights then it will perform well.
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Originally Posted by Akhor
(Post 4582529)
For the price of the 3-Port at A-Main you really can not beat it. Even if you blow it, it's almost cheaper to purchase another one.. Or you could just upgrade the piston and sleeve to a 5 port!
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I have finished breaking in my 7 port turbo, but I am not sure which spacer to leave under the head, the 1mm or the 2mm? Which one should I remove?
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petevette, you should have 1 alum shim and 1 thick shim in now, after a gallon remove the thick brass shim and install the thin brass shim, and your good to go.
out of box .25 needle settings breakin HSN-flush LSN-1/2 turn out from flush approximate race tune. HSN flush to 3 hours in from flush LSN 1 1/2 turns to 2 turns in from flush |
Originally Posted by petevette
(Post 4582759)
I have finished breaking in my 7 port turbo, but I am not sure which spacer to leave under the head, the 1mm or the 2mm? Which one should I remove?
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Excellent, will do. Thanks guys!
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Originally Posted by vnmsgt
(Post 4582541)
Only thing about the 3-port sport motor is that it comes with a pullstart and then you have to buy the bumpbox backing plate for it. For about 30 bucks more you can get the RACE 3-port .21 R-spec which is in a different league and it comes already with a bumpstart backplate installed from factory.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/16977 |
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