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Old 05-02-2008 | 03:13 AM
  #2536  
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Hi All,

I would like to thank everyone that has helped tune my 3p r spec, much appreciated.

To everyone who is about to purchase a 3 or 5p turbo engine, everything you have learned about engine tuning is pretty much non existent. These mills like to run a rich top end, most of the tuning will bottom end and ideal screw. My HSN is ¾ turn from flush, any further it will lean bog and absolutely destroy my plugs quick smart.

My 3p R spec has plenty of bottom end for my liking, more than my OS VGP and that’s in Hyper 7 Pro very heavy car.

Once again thanks for the informative information and the quick replies.
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Old 05-02-2008 | 06:31 AM
  #2537  
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Default low end bog

i have a go 5port turbo in my losi8t with a 086 pipe and it has a strange problem,it runs like a champ for a couple of tanks but then it develops a low end bog that will not tune out.i have tried the clutch but that seems fine.im perplexed with this otherwise great engine any help would be very welcome.cheers
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Old 05-02-2008 | 06:38 AM
  #2538  
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Newb questions on breakin (confused)...

How should you feel for "pinch" when rolling a motor over by hand? with the plug in or out?
How do you know when you have lost too much pinch or damaged the motor?

I have the 3port GO sport. I've tried to follow Brian's(Pro Twister) post on break in and I'm worried that somehow I have lost alot of "pinch" after 7 tanks.
I feel no pinch with the plug out after a few tanks, with the plug in I can feel a good bit of compression, but I can roll it over "the hump" with a firm finger...is this normal?

I'll review my breakin so far...

First tank, HSN out flush, LSN 1 1/4 in from flush, preheated (with my heat gun only got to 180), started easy, idled the motor with foil on the head at a nice 230, cooled to 114 at BDC.

Second tank, same ritual but the temp was slightly lower 200, with little throttle inputs I could maintain about 220

tanks 3 - 7 I've been driving it around a little, leaning the HSN an hour per tank. HSN is still rich, temps are much lower even with the foil. I've given up on trying to maintain 200+ temps on the motor because I'm too nervous to lean it out that much. Temps are between 150-180 everytime I check it.

My brother just bought a 3prt race spec and after 5 tanks has a ton of pinch, with the plug in there is no chance on rolling it over with your hand?
He has been breaking his in by running the LSN flush and the HSN out a turn from where it was out of the box, no foil, low heats...

Sorry for long post, I'm concerned about my break in... any thoughts would be appreciated.
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Old 05-02-2008 | 07:38 AM
  #2539  
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Should be fine, tht means you are ready to have a race tune on it.
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Old 05-02-2008 | 09:47 AM
  #2540  
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Originally Posted by mugenb46
you have the race spec right?
yes
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Old 05-02-2008 | 09:49 AM
  #2541  
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Originally Posted by cheesecake
well i figured out my lean bog issue it was a carb leaking at the base where it seals to the engine so i ripped it down sealed everything and installed my turbo head button with a os p3 plug and so far so good i ran a tank and it temped around 200 with plenty of smoke and power and no lean bog
what motor my is doing that too
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Old 05-02-2008 | 09:52 AM
  #2542  
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Originally Posted by tonyy
what motor my is doing that too
He's got a 5 port.
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Old 05-02-2008 | 09:53 AM
  #2543  
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my 3port does that and its not even hot like 200 210.
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Old 05-02-2008 | 09:58 AM
  #2544  
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may just be my tune the motor is new 2 weekends on it.
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Old 05-02-2008 | 01:00 PM
  #2545  
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Originally Posted by Vigilante212
yea take that shim out if its fully broken in it could be causing low detonation.
What the heck is low detonation? Detonation is when the mixture inside the combustion chamber fires too early and actually tries to push on the piston before it gets to tdc. A motor should be fine with the break in shim, it will be faster without it though.

Rex
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Old 05-02-2008 | 01:21 PM
  #2546  
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Originally Posted by tonyy
what motor my is doing that too
take your motor fill a sink with water remove the clutch assembly and exhaust.

use a long enough piece of fuel tubing to be able to dunk the engine and blow into it. fill a sink with water cover the exhaust and intake with your fingers dunk the engine and blow this will pinpoint any leaks you have be sure to disassemble and lube the engine when your done but once you find where the leak is coming from (mine was the carb and engine gasket) remove the part that its leaking from and seal with some silicone gasket maker. i usually disassemble the carb and backplate every 1-2 gallons and reseal with silicone.

Here is a great thread with information. and for everyone who has bought a go recently ive been hearing alot about them having air leaks so before you even run it its a good idea to seal the engine.

http://www.savage-central.com/module...Forums&t=54465
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Old 05-02-2008 | 03:13 PM
  #2547  
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Thanks cheesecake, that's a great article. Will add it to my file of nitro how-to tips
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Old 05-03-2008 | 07:50 AM
  #2548  
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I probably worded it wrong, wnat I mean is it wont have as much compression with that extra shim in.
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Old 05-03-2008 | 03:02 PM
  #2549  
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Hey Brian i ran my buggy today at out local track and it all went good. i was trying to keep it in the 220 range usually staid around there and near the end of the tank it went up to 250 to 270 so it should be fine. Also the low end was pretty good but i had no top end at all i was wondering what i should adjust.
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Old 05-03-2008 | 03:47 PM
  #2550  
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Default Rocket42

I have a 5pt with about 2 gal thru it. Last week, crank just snapped right behind conn rod boss. Engine still has plenty of pinch and was running about 210. Any ideas as to what might have caused this.
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