Quick question. I just picked up the R4 SP edition and was wondering if the diffs still need the .3 shim on the cup side? I'm building the diffs now and if I tighten the diffs down the diffs lock up. I have to losen the screws a bit for the diffs to feel smooth.

Anyone have information on this?

No additional shimming needed. Just follow the manual. Sp has the steel gears.

How much did you bought it?

Thank you for the quick reply.

I got it for 699.00 at Norcal Hobbies

To buill de diffs in a correct way I build it up on dry conditions... with out oil...so I can shim it and the close it and check the gear mesh...y they are lock or rusty, remove shims... try to remove all the posible play from diff cups...but always take in mind thay must work smooth...

The R4 SP in Banzai cost 533.35USD... GREAT VALUE THEN!..jajaj

Shimo $376 USD, http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/V-ONE-R...ion_p_661.html, Kyosho is trying to unload old stock inventory.

Thanks for the advice. I removed the .3 shims from the diffs and the diffs are smooth. I can't feel any play so I think I should be good to go.

I saw the price from Banzai and even had it on my favorites but I thought it would be better to support my local hobby shop. Besides, Eric V has been a big help with all my cars so I didn't mind spending the extra money. The hobby shop gives such great support.

Great!...check the play of the diff outdrives...pull inside and outside...if the move... when the suspesion works, would push the outdrives, so the gear mesh would change and maybe wear the gears faster...

Local store... GReat... here we don't have local support from Kyosho...it's a little country, little number of RC drivers... xD

Thanks I'll check that out today.

Hey guys... what happens if I reduce the CG?¿...the car would roll less??
What is the implicance with the roll center?...to achive the same setup I would hace to reduce de roll center too?... trying to mantain the same distance between CG and Roll Center?...

Folks,

Looking for a good starter box for 1/10 on road. Any suggestions?

I use The Ofna JLR Starter Box, just for 1/10 nitro..not for buggy...
Its very small, portable, and enough power even to break in the engine...
Uses 7.4v...I use two lipos in shunt configuration, so I have a lot of power!

One for sale

http://www.ebay.com/itm/KYOSHO-R4-Li...item1c305ce660

Mugen box for sure

Ofna JLR works great and it's 1/2 the size of most

Are the RRR/R4 totally different or is this still an evolution of the RRR? Just curious