Well, Im no pro driver... yet so I dont think Id get the issues you may have had, but then again I don't really care about the R4's current 'problems'
I haven't heard of anything going bad about the 733, but then again I haven't gone through the thread either
Another thing steering me to the 733 is the price -.-
$680 at least for the R4 VS. $480 for the 733
As much as I would love the latest-and-greatest, it will most likely not make me any faster of a driver, at least not until I get my setups right.

Why did you sell yours?

In that case go the 733.... You will love it. I have heard you can get them for cheaper than that too.......

Point me in the direction please! hehe
I've found it cheapest on rc-mushroom for $480US delivered (which now comes a little cheaper to me since the Aussie dollar is stronger) and that is the cheapest ive found brand new along with free express shipping.

Regarding rear diff we'll have an update until the end of this week.

In Kyosho germany they've a price of 499€ thats around 620$,I can get the MTX4-R for 450€,the 733 around the same price,the Capricorn is the one sitting high at 590€ for the 2010 version thats around 840$ but some racers believe it includes trophies,wins and such

You can also buy a thunder tiger TC4... Its cheaper and you can play anywhere. Kyosho is name for....quality.
Also serpent is very cheap but if you want to go fast you must pay....1002 optinals. Not to cheap....
Kyosho is a very good all around car and if you are an expert driver you can make it go fastest...
Just bothers me their attitude to the problem. I was expecting a release date for the rear diff upgrading...

I have an "old" RRR WC edition (with some upgrading on it, of course) and I was planning to move to the R4.

Now I have many doubts and I'm really wondering about it, since I don't see as much interest on R4 as I was thinking and moreover, surfing on several on-line shopping (let's forget local dealers) I'm seeing there isn't so much diffusion of even normal spares, while there are many discounts (dismissions?) on all Kyosho parts for the other RRR cars.

What's happening at Kyosho premises?

Very strange situation since all the new baby premises were good, low center of gravity, reduced differentials, good accessibility...

I love this car, the only prob i have had so far is the steering servo horn got broken, i am not sure if its the end point on the steering that needs so be decreased or what. i have no diff issues so far, when i built the diff i realized that the inward and outward movement of the cup joints were way too much and shimmed it with .2 mm shims underneath the pin that keeps the join in the diff., havent got to run the car in a race yet though but i like the car in every section of the track its stable every where. does anyone know if there is a metal servo horn to replace the plastic steering one that comes with the kit?

There will be an update. Check if is the same as in M3.

I used the horn that came with the servo or you could buy a nice alluminum one.

Iwill run the car this coming regionals in florida then I will coment.

Have seen the car run and run very well, as for the diffs they are very small even smaller then capricorn and xray and as you get smaller the tollerances need to be smaller, so hence the shimming is needed.

I have searched all diffs from other companies (xray,shepherd,serpent,xray,capricorn,km) and all are bigger than kyosho. Yes the shim for now is the last option.

I just fitted a Hotbodies D8 Steering Aluminium servo horn on my KO RSX Servo which fitted perfectly but i had to drill another hole and trim the end to make it shorter.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...4-Hitec-Spline

Soooooo finally i manged to ru the R4.

The 2nd didn't want to engage and yes everything was clean and degreased.
I ended up unscrewing almost half a turn more than the manual says in order to kick in, but the screws are touching a bit the aluminium housing and obviosly did some grooving. Also it doesn't feel consistent sometimes it shifts with certain revs someother times it shift earlier etc....
After cleaing the car i took out and inspected the 2nd for the (around) 15th time and smoothened the screws in order not to touch.

On our local track the cars still feels that needs more steering.

In order to get better steering i did the following:

I installed softer shock (light blue) lighter oil 300wt vs the stock 400wt
Installed front shocks on the lower hole of shock tower.
Caster with out spacers up front.
Moved the rear shocks to an upper hole by one space.
Reduced a bit the toe in in the rear ( 0.25 degree )
Running 37 front and 40 rear

I still want some more steering and thought of the follwing:

I am thinking of going for harder springs in the rear (dark blue) with 450 wt shock oil.

Less Toe in in the rear but might be not stable.

Running 35 Front and 40 rear

What do you suggest?

Thanks

I found the diffs to be very critical to the setup. Make sure they are filled all the way up.

If you have enough rear grip try going to 80k rear diff.

I ran yesterday and the car was on rails. On Saturday I installed an Xray front locker. All you need to do to run this is find 2 .9mm shims to shim the bearings out and then take a little bit of meat off the inside of the pully so that it fits the Xray locker. You will also need to glue on the retainer to the gear. The retainer does not come in the R4 kit so you will need to get it off a RRR or a RRR Gears spare parts bag.

I had my 2nd race meeting on the rear diff that has been shimmed and it performed flawless with a TQ and win.

The car was absolutely brilliant and I was really impressed with the handling. I think I have finally started to get on top of the teething troubles and can now start to change a few things on the setup.

I will put the front diff back in for the start of the next meeting just to back to back the locker/diff.

What I did find was that the car pushed a little on power but I dont mind that as it was so stable everywhere else that it made up for it.