Serpent 710
06-09-2004 | 12:31 AM
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,945
From: ID
Originally posted by InitialD
But I do agree that coatings on the crankshaft and crank pin is definitely a plus. KHM does that also I believe.
But I do agree that coatings on the crankshaft and crank pin is definitely a plus. KHM does that also I believe.
06-09-2004 | 03:35 AM
Tech Fanatic
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 857
Originally posted by Pyramid
Nothing at all.. just really awfull
...since `Redsand` just about to have a heart attack, picture has been deleted ...so there will be more Serpent users in Indonesia
(j/k)
Nothing at all.. just really awfull
...since `Redsand` just about to have a heart attack, picture has been deleted ...so there will be more Serpent users in Indonesia
(j/k)
06-09-2004 | 08:46 AM
Tech Fanatic
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 881
From: Fontana, CA
Mazda 6
This body is designed primarily to be effective on short tracks that are "low-bite" or when rubber tires are being used on carpet.
-This body is made to fit ROAR rules. However when height rules are not rigidly enforced. It can be trimmed to fit lower over chassis. The ride of the body is extremely critical when racing on a high traction track or a high-speed track. Always mount the body as low as is legal in those situations. For short slick tracks. it is less critical.
-The Protoform Mazda 6 body has a longer than usual wing stands molded into the rear deck. This allows the wing to be mounted in a forward or aft position with the supplied screws. On short tight tracks the wing should be mounted in a forward position with all the lexan still intact in the "kick-up" part of the wing. Extra "add-on" spill plated on the outside edges of the wing are not necessary on short tight tracks. A wing with large spill plates and mounted too far to the rear will hinder the car from rotating quickly on tight tracks. For larger high bite tracks the wing can be mounted rear-ward and the "kick-up trimmed down to help straight away speeds and stability.
-The Mazda 6 wing supplied has 2 trim lines marked. the smaller, lower trim line is for ROAR and IFMAR sanctioned racing events. Keep in mind, the small the track and the lower the speed, the larger the wing should be. On tracks with high-speed "sweepers" and long straights, the wing should be further back, and slightly smaller with large spill plates for stability.
-Molded into the front wheel-openings you will notice 2 optional "inner" spill-plates. After careful trimming, these pieces can be mounted into the rear win with Shoe-Goo, servo tape or the supplied screws/nuts (ass seen on the proline web site). These spill plates can be located directly over the wing stands or wherever they are found to be most effective. The inner spill plates are to make the rear wing slightly more efficient.
-Handling Balance is the key to quick lap times, so don't be afraid to experiment with the actual "body location". Sometimes mount the body forward or aft as little as 1/8 of an inch will be helpful in dialing in the perfect set-up and making your race car easier to drive consistently.
-Don't be afraid to experiment. Remember "Nothing ventured = Nothing gained!"
-This body is made to fit ROAR rules. However when height rules are not rigidly enforced. It can be trimmed to fit lower over chassis. The ride of the body is extremely critical when racing on a high traction track or a high-speed track. Always mount the body as low as is legal in those situations. For short slick tracks. it is less critical.
-The Protoform Mazda 6 body has a longer than usual wing stands molded into the rear deck. This allows the wing to be mounted in a forward or aft position with the supplied screws. On short tight tracks the wing should be mounted in a forward position with all the lexan still intact in the "kick-up" part of the wing. Extra "add-on" spill plated on the outside edges of the wing are not necessary on short tight tracks. A wing with large spill plates and mounted too far to the rear will hinder the car from rotating quickly on tight tracks. For larger high bite tracks the wing can be mounted rear-ward and the "kick-up trimmed down to help straight away speeds and stability.
-The Mazda 6 wing supplied has 2 trim lines marked. the smaller, lower trim line is for ROAR and IFMAR sanctioned racing events. Keep in mind, the small the track and the lower the speed, the larger the wing should be. On tracks with high-speed "sweepers" and long straights, the wing should be further back, and slightly smaller with large spill plates for stability.
-Molded into the front wheel-openings you will notice 2 optional "inner" spill-plates. After careful trimming, these pieces can be mounted into the rear win with Shoe-Goo, servo tape or the supplied screws/nuts (ass seen on the proline web site). These spill plates can be located directly over the wing stands or wherever they are found to be most effective. The inner spill plates are to make the rear wing slightly more efficient.
-Handling Balance is the key to quick lap times, so don't be afraid to experiment with the actual "body location". Sometimes mount the body forward or aft as little as 1/8 of an inch will be helpful in dialing in the perfect set-up and making your race car easier to drive consistently.
-Don't be afraid to experiment. Remember "Nothing ventured = Nothing gained!"
06-09-2004 | 08:51 AM
Tech Adept
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 121
Re: Mazda 6
Originally posted by PSI Racing
This body is designed primarily to be effective on short tracks that are "low-bite" or when rubber tires are being used on carpet.
-This body is made to fit ROAR rules. However when height rules are not rigidly enforced. It can be trimmed to fit lower over chassis. The ride of the body is extremely critical when racing on a high traction track or a high-speed track. Always mount the body as low as is legal in those situations. For short slick tracks. it is less critical.
-The Protoform Mazda 6 body has a longer than usual wing stands molded into the rear deck. This allows the wing to be mounted in a forward or aft position with the supplied screws. On short tight tracks the wing should be mounted in a forward position with all the lexan still intact in the "kick-up" part of the wing. Extra "add-on" spill plated on the outside edges of the wing are not necessary on short tight tracks. A wing with large spill plates and mounted too far to the rear will hinder the car from rotating quickly on tight tracks. For larger high bite tracks the wing can be mounted rear-ward and the "kick-up trimmed down to help straight away speeds and stability.
-The Mazda 6 wing supplied has 2 trim lines marked. the smaller, lower trim line is for ROAR and IFMAR sanctioned racing events. Keep in mind, the small the track and the lower the speed, the larger the wing should be. On tracks with high-speed "sweepers" and long straights, the wing should be further back, and slightly smaller with large spill plates for stability.
-Molded into the front wheel-openings you will notice 2 optional "inner" spill-plates. After careful trimming, these pieces can be mounted into the rear win with Shoe-Goo, servo tape or the supplied screws/nuts (ass seen on the proline web site). These spill plates can be located directly over the wing stands or wherever they are found to be most effective. The inner spill plates are to make the rear wing slightly more efficient.
-Handling Balance is the key to quick lap times, so don't be afraid to experiment with the actual "body location". Sometimes mount the body forward or aft as little as 1/8 of an inch will be helpful in dialing in the perfect set-up and making your race car easier to drive consistently.
-Don't be afraid to experiment. Remember "Nothing ventured = Nothing gained!"
This body is designed primarily to be effective on short tracks that are "low-bite" or when rubber tires are being used on carpet.
-This body is made to fit ROAR rules. However when height rules are not rigidly enforced. It can be trimmed to fit lower over chassis. The ride of the body is extremely critical when racing on a high traction track or a high-speed track. Always mount the body as low as is legal in those situations. For short slick tracks. it is less critical.
-The Protoform Mazda 6 body has a longer than usual wing stands molded into the rear deck. This allows the wing to be mounted in a forward or aft position with the supplied screws. On short tight tracks the wing should be mounted in a forward position with all the lexan still intact in the "kick-up" part of the wing. Extra "add-on" spill plated on the outside edges of the wing are not necessary on short tight tracks. A wing with large spill plates and mounted too far to the rear will hinder the car from rotating quickly on tight tracks. For larger high bite tracks the wing can be mounted rear-ward and the "kick-up trimmed down to help straight away speeds and stability.
-The Mazda 6 wing supplied has 2 trim lines marked. the smaller, lower trim line is for ROAR and IFMAR sanctioned racing events. Keep in mind, the small the track and the lower the speed, the larger the wing should be. On tracks with high-speed "sweepers" and long straights, the wing should be further back, and slightly smaller with large spill plates for stability.
-Molded into the front wheel-openings you will notice 2 optional "inner" spill-plates. After careful trimming, these pieces can be mounted into the rear win with Shoe-Goo, servo tape or the supplied screws/nuts (ass seen on the proline web site). These spill plates can be located directly over the wing stands or wherever they are found to be most effective. The inner spill plates are to make the rear wing slightly more efficient.
-Handling Balance is the key to quick lap times, so don't be afraid to experiment with the actual "body location". Sometimes mount the body forward or aft as little as 1/8 of an inch will be helpful in dialing in the perfect set-up and making your race car easier to drive consistently.
-Don't be afraid to experiment. Remember "Nothing ventured = Nothing gained!"
Thanks PSI I got my new 6 last week so I will use the tips stated above
06-09-2004 | 11:30 AM
mazda 6
i just recently used the mazda 6 and i had fun with this body is pretty stable in sweepers and fast chicanes but to do this had to experiment on moving the body forward ... and also moving the wing like PSI stated in his post ... the body has a nuetral feel to it and sometimes its to stable and feels somewhat lazy... but just find the right setting for it and you'll have fun...
has anyone tried the alfa romeo losi body? some info please?
has anyone tried the alfa romeo losi body? some info please?
Last edited by BIBOY; 06-09-2004 at 11:35 AM.
06-09-2004 | 01:59 PM
Originally posted by InitialD
How many times do we need to repeat this?
What we use is a servo extender. This servo extender connects to the receiver and the other end of the servo extender connects to the receiver battery pack. Just unplug the receiver battery connector from the servo extender plug to switch off and plug it to switch on.
How many times do we need to repeat this?
What we use is a servo extender. This servo extender connects to the receiver and the other end of the servo extender connects to the receiver battery pack. Just unplug the receiver battery connector from the servo extender plug to switch off and plug it to switch on.
06-09-2004 | 02:33 PM
Tech Addict
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 536
From: Planet earth
about hand Mod.
Originally posted by InitialD
The 2106 should be standard NovaMega. KHM version would be hand modified. MS version (like JP versions of the NSR) would be factory modified.
Since JP came out with their own line of FX engines like RB and NovaMega (unlike in the old days when they get Novarossi engines and work on them), I would not know the distinction between hand modified, factory modified or standard engine anymore. Well, one can argue that the piston liner and everything (except maybe the carb) is the same coming from the Novarossi mill like RB and NovaMega...
The 2106 should be standard NovaMega. KHM version would be hand modified. MS version (like JP versions of the NSR) would be factory modified.
Since JP came out with their own line of FX engines like RB and NovaMega (unlike in the old days when they get Novarossi engines and work on them), I would not know the distinction between hand modified, factory modified or standard engine anymore. Well, one can argue that the piston liner and everything (except maybe the carb) is the same coming from the Novarossi mill like RB and NovaMega...
some brands sell modified motors like Nova MS these are all factory build .
JP engines are not that, JP is a small company who build and check all there engines.
each by hand Jean Paul is doining this already a long time.
and now its the first time he has a crankcase with his name on it.
that does not mean there factory build.
but that means a complete different crankcase made by Nova but his own design.
in the facory in France there selected and build.
just to let you know.
06-09-2004 | 02:45 PM
Tech Addict
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 536
From: Planet earth
Re: mazda 6
Originally posted by BIBOY
i just recently used the mazda 6 and i had fun with this body is pretty stable in sweepers and fast chicanes but to do this had to experiment on moving the body forward ... and also moving the wing like PSI stated in his post ... the body has a nuetral feel to it and sometimes its to stable and feels somewhat lazy... but just find the right setting for it and you'll have fun...
has anyone tried the alfa romeo losi body? some info please?
i just recently used the mazda 6 and i had fun with this body is pretty stable in sweepers and fast chicanes but to do this had to experiment on moving the body forward ... and also moving the wing like PSI stated in his post ... the body has a nuetral feel to it and sometimes its to stable and feels somewhat lazy... but just find the right setting for it and you'll have fun...
has anyone tried the alfa romeo losi body? some info please?
06-09-2004 | 02:50 PM
Tech Regular
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 365
From: Central Islip NY
Originally posted by FW05R
the problem I am expecting from the composite shock bodies is that the thread will eventually wear out from adjusting the shock tension
the problem I am expecting from the composite shock bodies is that the thread will eventually wear out from adjusting the shock tension
06-09-2004 | 03:16 PM
hi guys i have a question?
i have bee running my 710 lately and its has been fun... but last night when ran out on the track i was surprised that the car was hooking to the left when i enter the chicanes and in sudden turning what could be wrong?
Last edited by BIBOY; 06-09-2004 at 03:48 PM.
