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Old 05-18-2004, 12:30 AM   #10711
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yes it was cold last weekend like 50 degrees. The only end I want to put them on is the front. Duh I suppose I could just put the titanium ones on from 3 racing. I'm using the 835 front axles in it already.
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Old 05-18-2004, 12:31 AM   #10712
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aw heck I'll just trim the stock serpent steel ones no biggie.
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Old 05-18-2004, 12:31 AM   #10713
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I've hit a lot of stuff but I have not broken any pivot balls. Neither has any of the guys where we race locally. Perhaps it's the weather. Colder = brittle.
No, metal fatigue due to temperature occurs only at extreme temps - your body wouldn't like you to drive at those temps, so it is unlikely to be the cause.
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Old 05-18-2004, 12:33 AM   #10714
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the ball where it snapped off looks like it is a casting not a billet machining. the grain structure is coarse.
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Old 05-18-2004, 12:38 AM   #10715
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Quote:
Originally posted by Motorman
yes it was cold last weekend like 50 degrees. The only end I want to put them on is the front. Duh I suppose I could just put the titanium ones on from 3 racing. I'm using the 835 front axles in it already.
I would put the same steel pivot balls in the rear too. That's what the team drivers are doing at the current moment before better bottom rear arm plastics come out. Leave the length as stock. That's what you want... Longer pivot balls in the rear.
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Old 05-18-2004, 12:39 AM   #10716
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Quote:
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the grain structure is coarse.
Then it's brittle !
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Old 05-18-2004, 12:40 AM   #10717
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
No, metal fatigue due to temperature occurs only at extreme temps - your body wouldn't like you to drive at those temps, so it is unlikely to be the cause.
You may be right ! I guess I'm mixing plastics with aluminum !
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Old 05-18-2004, 12:43 AM   #10718
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
You may be right ! I guess I'm mixing plastics with aluminum !
Plastics are different, but plastic only becomes brittle at temp below approx. 0 Degrees C - but at higher temps they become more flexible and this may account for less breakages at moderate temps (i.e. above 25 Degrees).
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Old 05-18-2004, 12:44 AM   #10719
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I've heard the rear arm tends to break if you get hit moderatly hard from the rear. you guys experienced this?
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Old 05-18-2004, 12:46 AM   #10720
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The Netherlands has also 230 volt
I'm going to keep my mouth shut in future
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Old 05-18-2004, 12:47 AM   #10721
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Quote:
Originally posted by Motorman
I've heard the rear arm tends to break if you get hit hard from the rear.
Have not broken that but what will tend to happen is the rear bottom pivot balls will strip the plastic threading from the arms. Hence a longer pivot ball (steel pivot balls) would benefit.
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Old 05-18-2004, 12:49 AM   #10722
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really
I'll have to keep that in mind. I did notice the plastic on the car is pretty soft and it does not take much torque to strip a hole out
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Old 05-18-2004, 12:51 AM   #10723
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Originally posted by Motorman
really
I'll have to keep that in mind. I did notice the plastic on the car is pretty soft and it does not take much torque to strip a hole out
A running change in terms of change of plastic quality from Serpent to update those lower bottom rear arms is on the way...
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Old 05-18-2004, 01:00 AM   #10724
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Quote:
Originally posted by Motorman
really
I'll have to keep that in mind. I did notice the plastic on the car is pretty soft and it does not take much torque to strip a hole out
What I do to try and prevent this is to set the width one millimeter shorter on both sides and then use 1mm wheel spacers to bring back the track width to 200mm - note if you are using a narrow rear width, then this isn't so necessary and it can limit the uptravel of the rear suspension.
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Old 05-18-2004, 01:13 AM   #10725
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
CIf you got the FX engine, I would not know if they have the same internals having same dimensions as the Novarossi / NovaMega. Hope Schrijver99 or someone else can shed some light on this.

JP came out with their own line of FX engines but had Novarossi make them to their own specs. I know in the previous times, what JP does is get Novarossi engines and do their own "mods" on them and sign them off as modded JP engines.
The Crankcase is the same except for the "JP" on the side and the black coating.
The crankshaft is modded and coated.
Piston/sleeve is modded same as old RS an NS based JP's
And if you have the money: CERAMIC bearings

Found this in the JP FX Forum from daniz24 wich is super modded by JP himself:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg dscn1689.jpg (114.3 KB, 96 views)
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