Serpent 710
Originally posted by Julius
I already did. But my pictures await the scrutiny of master censor Sow
I already did. But my pictures await the scrutiny of master censor Sow
Create your own directories and then load your pictures into them - no censoring anymore
Originally posted by JustRace
jag...where do you race at?
I use a razor knife and just rock the arm while pressing down on the knife. It cuts real easily.
Also, if you're 2 seconds behind the fast guys the DRS isn't going to help. Since you said you're new then I would just concentrate on your driving. This is assuming your car is not having handling problems such as oversteering.
jag...where do you race at?
I use a razor knife and just rock the arm while pressing down on the knife. It cuts real easily.
Also, if you're 2 seconds behind the fast guys the DRS isn't going to help. Since you said you're new then I would just concentrate on your driving. This is assuming your car is not having handling problems such as oversteering.
Don't misunderstand my question, I'm not looking for 2 seconds but what I am looking for is a starting point... should I be using DRS or not, should I use SWB, etc... I guess I will just try it and see what it does. I am sure it's me and not the car because there is another 710 there just like mine that is fast but the driver has a few years of experience.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 787
From: Melbourne, FL
Originally posted by Julius
I use:
-The long servo saver
-The new diff clamp
-2.5mm sway bar
-The alu mid axle bracket
-Lightweight pulley adapters
-Alu middle shaft
-ceramic thrust bearing clutch
The first three are the most important ones. Which make a difference regardless of ability.
The others make sense when you are able to run your laps within a few tenths of each other. Otherwise spend the money on tires and fuel for practice
I use:
-The long servo saver
-The new diff clamp
-2.5mm sway bar
-The alu mid axle bracket
-Lightweight pulley adapters
-Alu middle shaft
-ceramic thrust bearing clutch
The first three are the most important ones. Which make a difference regardless of ability.
The others make sense when you are able to run your laps within a few tenths of each other. Otherwise spend the money on tires and fuel for practice
Originally posted by jag
I am racing at Coral Springs right now and plan to go over to Go Racing and try that track also.
Don't misunderstand my question, I'm not looking for 2 seconds but what I am looking for is a starting point... should I be using DRS or not, should I use SWB, etc... I guess I will just try it and see what it does. I am sure it's me and not the car because there is another 710 there just like mine that is fast but the driver has a few years of experience.
I am racing at Coral Springs right now and plan to go over to Go Racing and try that track also.
Don't misunderstand my question, I'm not looking for 2 seconds but what I am looking for is a starting point... should I be using DRS or not, should I use SWB, etc... I guess I will just try it and see what it does. I am sure it's me and not the car because there is another 710 there just like mine that is fast but the driver has a few years of experience.
If I were you, I would take my time to become comfortable with the car. Get the car setup with the standard setup and remain with this until you feel you are comfortable that you know how the car is reacting around the circuit (i.e. where is it understeering, oversteering, etc.)
Only go as far as getting the ride hight and tyres right at first.
When you feel that the car isn't doing why you want it to do, try and limit your changes to the springs/damping + anti-roll bars. If you try to change too much at first, you will only get lost.
I've had the car a long time now and I learn more about the car all the time, there is a lot to discover, but the worst thing to do is to rush into it.
Don't start looking into DRS just yet, and only start with advanced mods like SWB when you really are fully comfortable with the car - otherwise you wouldn't really see the difference these items are making.
Go out there, drive and enjoy it at first.
Hope this helps, Mark.
Originally posted by InitialD
I used a sharp Xacto hobby knife. You need to get some spacers. The Serpent caster clips is perfect for this as it comes in 1 mm, 2 mm and 4 mm.
For more details, you could refer to Onkel Sow's article here.
I used a sharp Xacto hobby knife. You need to get some spacers. The Serpent caster clips is perfect for this as it comes in 1 mm, 2 mm and 4 mm.
For more details, you could refer to Onkel Sow's article here.
I do have a question that may seem obvious but I will ask anyway, if I move the bottom arm towards the rear 1mm then I need to move the upper arm back the same 1mm? I would accomplish this by reversing the top clips?
Originally posted by markp27
Hi Jag,
If I were you, I would take my time to become comfortable with the car. Get the car setup with the standard setup and remain with this until you feel you are comfortable that you know how the car is reacting around the circuit (i.e. where is it understeering, oversteering, etc.)
Only go as far as getting the ride hight and tyres right at first.
When you feel that the car isn't doing why you want it to do, try and limit your changes to the springs/damping + anti-roll bars. If you try to change too much at first, you will only get lost.
I've had the car a long time now and I learn more about the car all the time, there is a lot to discover, but the worst thing to do is to rush into it.
Don't start looking into DRS just yet, and only start with advanced mods like SWB when you really are fully comfortable with the car - otherwise you wouldn't really see the difference these items are making.
Go out there, drive and enjoy it at first.
Hope this helps, Mark.
Hi Jag,
If I were you, I would take my time to become comfortable with the car. Get the car setup with the standard setup and remain with this until you feel you are comfortable that you know how the car is reacting around the circuit (i.e. where is it understeering, oversteering, etc.)
Only go as far as getting the ride hight and tyres right at first.
When you feel that the car isn't doing why you want it to do, try and limit your changes to the springs/damping + anti-roll bars. If you try to change too much at first, you will only get lost.
I've had the car a long time now and I learn more about the car all the time, there is a lot to discover, but the worst thing to do is to rush into it.
Don't start looking into DRS just yet, and only start with advanced mods like SWB when you really are fully comfortable with the car - otherwise you wouldn't really see the difference these items are making.
Go out there, drive and enjoy it at first.
Hope this helps, Mark.
Thanks for the help.
Originally posted by Julius
I use:
-The long servo saver
-The new diff clamp
-2.5mm sway bar
-The alu mid axle bracket
-Lightweight pulley adapters
-Alu middle shaft
-ceramic thrust bearing clutch
The first three are the most important ones. Which make a difference regardless of ability.
The others make sense when you are able to run your laps within a few tenths of each other. Otherwise spend the money on tires and fuel for practice
I use:
-The long servo saver
-The new diff clamp
-2.5mm sway bar
-The alu mid axle bracket
-Lightweight pulley adapters
-Alu middle shaft
-ceramic thrust bearing clutch
The first three are the most important ones. Which make a difference regardless of ability.
The others make sense when you are able to run your laps within a few tenths of each other. Otherwise spend the money on tires and fuel for practice
Cheers, Mark.
Originally posted by jag
Good point. I know the car is much better than the driver.
Thanks for the help.
Good point. I know the car is much better than the driver.
Thanks for the help.
Cheers, Mark.
hey, i have a serpent 710 and i race at lylidale it is a free flowing track and i lack a bit of speed. I am woundering if any1 could help me find a better gearing or have any idea as to how to get more top end out of the car. the straight at lylidale is around about 60 -70 meters if not longer. Could this be a gearing problem or is it just the way the car is?
Thanxz
Davo Serpent 710
KO PROPO
Nova MEGA!
the only way to be! lolz
Thanxz
Davo Serpent 710
KO PROPO
Nova MEGA!
the only way to be! lolz
Tech Adept
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 133
From: Houston, TX
Originally posted by InitialD
Hey Wap, welcome back.
BTW, I would suggest that you check the rear diff outdrives and the rear drive cups. Check to see if there is any kind of wear. You need to inspect closely in order to see it. If they are worned out, change them. That's probably the cause of the problem with the rear spinning out to one side.
Hey Wap, welcome back.
BTW, I would suggest that you check the rear diff outdrives and the rear drive cups. Check to see if there is any kind of wear. You need to inspect closely in order to see it. If they are worned out, change them. That's probably the cause of the problem with the rear spinning out to one side.
thanks InitialD & Markp27, I look forward to racing again. The car is in a million pieces on the work bench and I will slowly put it together w/ the goodies that you suggested.
I hope to be racing in a week or 2.
wap
Originally posted by markp27
BTW: I should have mentioned also, that it is also a good idea to get the camber of the tyres set correctly for your circuit. The front tyres should wear flat and the rears slightly coned.
Cheers, Mark.
BTW: I should have mentioned also, that it is also a good idea to get the camber of the tyres set correctly for your circuit. The front tyres should wear flat and the rears slightly coned.
Cheers, Mark.
How much toe-in do you run in the rear? I had a good racer tell me 2.5 to 3 degrees minimum is a must. Fact or fiction?




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