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Old 05-11-2004, 11:19 PM   #10201
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Quote:
Originally posted by Proficar403
Here's a pic, but you can hardly see the rear posts.
That's a sleek paint design ! Bravo. You come out with the best alternative bodyshell designs.
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Old 05-11-2004, 11:20 PM   #10202
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I have not raced the front diff on the same tight track. We go from one track to another for races. Hopefully, there will be a races soon that I can try the two together and be able to compare notes.
Looking forward to your feedback when you do
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Old 05-11-2004, 11:20 PM   #10203
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Hey D, it's good you mentioned about step 9.2 yesterday - you know, somehow I'd overlooked this step Made sure I set it up correctly last night.
Cleaned all my bearings out last night - took some time to do and I fitted the carbon upper bumper plate - looks good Unfortunately, I have stripped on of the screw threads in the alu posts which go in the foam bumber - man that Alu is soft
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Old 05-11-2004, 11:27 PM   #10204
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Hey D, it's good you mentioned about step 9.2 yesterday - you know, somehow I'd overlooked this step Made sure I set it up correctly last night.
After some time of running, make sure you check this adjustment to ensure that you compensate for the aluminum bell and shoe wear.

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
I fitted the carbon upper bumper plate - looks good Unfortunately, I have stripped on of the screw threads in the alu posts which go in the foam bumber - man that Alu is soft
Ooophs , I should have warned you earlier. The screw threading on the aluminum 3 Racing parts are somewhat loose fit. Tendency to strip it is high because of the excess play. You need to dab some threadlock too.
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Old 05-11-2004, 11:30 PM   #10205
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Default Clutch Bell

I am trying the Lightweight bell housing at the moment, is anyone else using it? Any different setting for this bell?
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Old 05-11-2004, 11:32 PM   #10206
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
After some time of running, make sure you check this adjustment to ensure that you compensate for the aluminum bell and shoe wear.
I shall my Master



Quote:
Ooophs , I should have warned you earlier. The screw threading on the aluminum 3 Racing parts are somewhat loose fit. Tendency to strip it is high because of the excess play. You need to dab some threadlock too.
I only half stripped it as I noticed it suddenly became easier to turn the screw - some thread lock will sort it out. Does the thread lock manage to keep the droop screws in place - was worried about how loose they were
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Old 05-11-2004, 11:32 PM   #10207
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Well for those people who wanted answers I do make good money so $400 is nothing to me I rather sell the car that I know isn't a good performer on the track IMO. Yes I did sell this s710 to a good buddy of mine at the track for $50 since Alex has been so helpfull to me about this car's set up's and adjustments I also included the engine I was running it with ns12s3 because I have several more at home. I just don't understand why this car breaks so easly at such low speeds Ive had to replace several parts on this car with in 2 weeks of me starting running it I finnaly got fed up that day and just wanted to get rid of it
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Old 05-11-2004, 11:39 PM   #10208
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Quite a few people here make good money - but throwing $400 away is stupidity!!! If only we all had friends like you
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Old 05-11-2004, 11:39 PM   #10209
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Default Re: Clutch Bell

Quote:
Originally posted by Picard
I am trying the Lightweight bell housing at the moment, is anyone else using it? Any different setting for this bell?
Just make sure you check the end play and clutch gap after changing the bell housing. Sometimes, the manufacturing tolerance difference can give different reading.
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Old 05-11-2004, 11:41 PM   #10210
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Quite a few people here make good money - but throwing $400 away is stupidity!!! If only we all had friends like you
Hey, get back in line ! I'm his first friend since I was the first to make contact with him on this forum !
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Old 05-11-2004, 11:42 PM   #10211
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Does the thread lock manage to keep the droop screws in place - was worried about how loose they were
Yup. The thread lock still holds the front droop screws on the aluminum bar holder after several runs and races.
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Old 05-11-2004, 11:45 PM   #10212
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On the point of "Glass" cars, etc. I believe that designers are now havig to head in the direction of lighter built cars (aka glass cars ) due to the need to find more performance from the machines.
These cars are turning into full-bred racing machines, which have to be driven with the respect and skill of their bigger siblings I can't see many manufacture building tank like cars anymore which go on to rule the tracks - it'll be interesting to see what the new Mugen and Kyosho cars are like in terms of durability and strength.

Personally, I don't find the 710 weak - I've had a couple of hits with the boards so far and nothing has broken - but maybe I just don't make so many mistake these days.
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Old 05-11-2004, 11:46 PM   #10213
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Hey, get back in line ! I'm his first friend since I was the first to make contact with him on this forum !
Hmmm, so you're lining yourself up to get a Glass Kyosho, D
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Old 05-11-2004, 11:47 PM   #10214
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Hmmm, so you're lining yourself up to get a Glass Kyosho, D
I'm a freeloader ! Just ask crashed_1.
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Old 05-11-2004, 11:51 PM   #10215
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I'm a freeloader ! Just ask crashed_1.
Is Crashed having problems with a Glass car, too? D, you're covering every angle, aren't you?
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