Serpent 710
#8386
Originally posted by Pyramid
The farthest I ever go (Front) is -1.5 deg camber, 6mm caster, 197mm track witdh, and 0 toe. As fas as I remember, still have 1 full turn in on turnbuckle.
The farthest I ever go (Front) is -1.5 deg camber, 6mm caster, 197mm track witdh, and 0 toe. As fas as I remember, still have 1 full turn in on turnbuckle.
#8388
Originally posted by jfc_tech
D or anyone:
just curious about my side belt slacking so easily. It's still new...i mean after 10 tanks only...it already showing slack
is it normal? im using Max.thanks.
D or anyone:
just curious about my side belt slacking so easily. It's still new...i mean after 10 tanks only...it already showing slack
is it normal? im using Max.thanks.
#8389
Originally posted by paulfitipauldi
I use a gel cell into the starter box too, just a little mod is needed
I use a gel cell into the starter box too, just a little mod is needed
#8390
Tech Addict
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 590
From: Auckland,New Zealand
Hey D what glow plug are you using in your mova max? I am using a nova rossi C5TF the weather is warm to cool and we use 16% nitro, it is just that i have tried the clutch mod and the settings and my car is still very slow on accelration, iam now worried that i have damaged the engine and which was caused by using wrong glow plug or running it too lean
#8391
Well, I'm back in Germany and will have to look through all these postings now, to see what is worth adding to the FAQ
Found a nice 2106 Engine waiting for my 710 from the nice guys from www.the-border.com
Just need two servos now and I'll be up-and-running
Found a nice 2106 Engine waiting for my 710 from the nice guys from www.the-border.com
Just need two servos now and I'll be up-and-running
#8392
Originally posted by Pyramid
A bit longer on total length and also from pin to end of spur.. 6mm (inner diameter) precision shims would do the job find to remove a little sloops on the first spur gear. But the weight saving is much more important since it TURNS...
A bit longer on total length and also from pin to end of spur.. 6mm (inner diameter) precision shims would do the job find to remove a little sloops on the first spur gear. But the weight saving is much more important since it TURNS...
#8393
Originally posted by Voodo_Magic
Hey D what glow plug are you using in your mova max? I am using a nova rossi C5TF the weather is warm to cool and we use 16% nitro, it is just that i have tried the clutch mod and the settings and my car is still very slow on accelration, iam now worried that i have damaged the engine and which was caused by using wrong glow plug or running it too lean
Hey D what glow plug are you using in your mova max? I am using a nova rossi C5TF the weather is warm to cool and we use 16% nitro, it is just that i have tried the clutch mod and the settings and my car is still very slow on accelration, iam now worried that i have damaged the engine and which was caused by using wrong glow plug or running it too lean
You could also look at the condition of the plug. Look at the plug coil to see if the coil is distorted. If it is and you're blowing plugs every now and then, it could be that your engine has too much compression. Look in depth engine tuning tips, look no further than Dennis Richey's site.
Proceed to tune your engine from rich to lean.
Try to pinch the fuel line going into the carb as close as possible. Your engine should not die immediately. If it does, then too lean. If it takes a long time to die, then you're too rich.
When the engine is cold, can you turn the flywheel easily or do you still feel the resistance?
I'll cut and paste a posting I did on the NovaMax engine thread;
If I need to tune the engine to race, what I do is best to set the LSN to 4 turns out and HSN to 6 turns out. I do this on most engines. Idle screw is set such that the slide carb is having about 1 mm hole opening when closed. You need to keep throttling to keep the engine running. Set the LSN to lean it till the engine idle RPM goes up a little and then back out a little till the idle remains constant. That should be the ball park LSN setting. Now tune the HSN till you get the engine revving to the highest RPM very easily. Then back out / richen the HSN a little. Test it on track to fine tune.
If the idle is dropping, lean the LSN a little bit more. Hope that helps.
#8394
Originally posted by markp27
Found a nice 2106 Engine waiting for my 710 from the nice guys from www.the-border.com
Just need two servos now and I'll be up-and-running
Found a nice 2106 Engine waiting for my 710 from the nice guys from www.the-border.com
Just need two servos now and I'll be up-and-running
#8395
Originally posted by markp27
Well, I'm back in Germany and will have to look through all these postings now, to see what is worth adding to the FAQ
Found a nice 2106 Engine waiting for my 710 from the nice guys from www.the-border.com
Just need two servos now and I'll be up-and-running
Well, I'm back in Germany and will have to look through all these postings now, to see what is worth adding to the FAQ
Found a nice 2106 Engine waiting for my 710 from the nice guys from www.the-border.com
Just need two servos now and I'll be up-and-running
WELKOMMEN... I dont know the german word for back, so i will use english word... BACK
#8396
Originally posted by InitialD
Did they give you another free engine? Did they mistakingly charge half price to you?
Did they give you another free engine? Did they mistakingly charge half price to you?
Well that was those nice guys at pro8 who were able to supply me the Hudy tyre truer at such a good price
I'm pretty interested to see how well this engine runs
May be difficult to run this week - rain forcast the whole week
but, as I say the 710 still needs its servos, so it'd be the 705 I'd be testing this week - this time with four wheel driver
#8397
Tech Addict
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 590
From: Auckland,New Zealand
Originally posted by InitialD
Open up the engine and check the top of the piston or the button head to see that it's surface is not sandblasted.
You could also look at the condition of the plug. Look at the plug coil to see if the coil is distorted. If it is and you're blowing plugs every now and then, it could be that your engine has too much compression. Look in depth engine tuning tips, look no further than Dennis Richey's site.
Proceed to tune your engine from rich to lean.
Try to pinch the fuel line going into the carb as close as possible. Your engine should not die immediately. If it does, then too lean. If it takes a long time to die, then you're too rich.
When the engine is cold, can you turn the flywheel easily or do you still feel the resistance?
Hey thanks for the info D but i think i have my worst fears confirmed after removing the head the top of the piston is very black and rough the bottom of the glow plug the filament seems to have melted to the bottom of the plug! is this a dead engine?
I'll cut and paste a posting I did on the NovaMax engine thread;
If I need to tune the engine to race, what I do is best to set the LSN to 4 turns out and HSN to 6 turns out. I do this on most engines. Idle screw is set such that the slide carb is having about 1 mm hole opening when closed. You need to keep throttling to keep the engine running. Set the LSN to lean it till the engine idle RPM goes up a little and then back out a little till the idle remains constant. That should be the ball park LSN setting. Now tune the HSN till you get the engine revving to the highest RPM very easily. Then back out / richen the HSN a little. Test it on track to fine tune.
If the idle is dropping, lean the LSN a little bit more. Hope that helps.
Open up the engine and check the top of the piston or the button head to see that it's surface is not sandblasted.
You could also look at the condition of the plug. Look at the plug coil to see if the coil is distorted. If it is and you're blowing plugs every now and then, it could be that your engine has too much compression. Look in depth engine tuning tips, look no further than Dennis Richey's site.
Proceed to tune your engine from rich to lean.
Try to pinch the fuel line going into the carb as close as possible. Your engine should not die immediately. If it does, then too lean. If it takes a long time to die, then you're too rich.
When the engine is cold, can you turn the flywheel easily or do you still feel the resistance?
Hey thanks for the info D but i think i have my worst fears confirmed after removing the head the top of the piston is very black and rough the bottom of the glow plug the filament seems to have melted to the bottom of the plug! is this a dead engine?
I'll cut and paste a posting I did on the NovaMax engine thread;
If I need to tune the engine to race, what I do is best to set the LSN to 4 turns out and HSN to 6 turns out. I do this on most engines. Idle screw is set such that the slide carb is having about 1 mm hole opening when closed. You need to keep throttling to keep the engine running. Set the LSN to lean it till the engine idle RPM goes up a little and then back out a little till the idle remains constant. That should be the ball park LSN setting. Now tune the HSN till you get the engine revving to the highest RPM very easily. Then back out / richen the HSN a little. Test it on track to fine tune.
If the idle is dropping, lean the LSN a little bit more. Hope that helps.
#8398
Tech Addict
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 590
From: Auckland,New Zealand
Originally posted by InitialD
Open up the engine and check the top of the piston or the button head to see that it's surface is not sandblasted.
You could also look at the condition of the plug. Look at the plug coil to see if the coil is distorted. If it is and you're blowing plugs every now and then, it could be that your engine has too much compression. Look in depth engine tuning tips, look no further than Dennis Richey's site.
Proceed to tune your engine from rich to lean.
Try to pinch the fuel line going into the carb as close as possible. Your engine should not die immediately. If it does, then too lean. If it takes a long time to die, then you're too rich.
When the engine is cold, can you turn the flywheel easily or do you still feel the resistance?
If I need to tune the engine to race, what I do is best to set the LSN to 4 turns out and HSN to 6 turns out. I do this on most engines. Idle screw is set such that the slide carb is having about 1 mm hole opening when closed. You need to keep throttling to keep the engine running. Set the LSN to lean it till the engine idle RPM goes up a little and then back out a little till the idle remains constant. That should be the ball park LSN setting. Now tune the HSN till you get the engine revving to the highest RPM very easily. Then back out / richen the HSN a little. Test it on track to fine tune.
If the idle is dropping, lean the LSN a little bit more. Hope that helps.
Open up the engine and check the top of the piston or the button head to see that it's surface is not sandblasted.
You could also look at the condition of the plug. Look at the plug coil to see if the coil is distorted. If it is and you're blowing plugs every now and then, it could be that your engine has too much compression. Look in depth engine tuning tips, look no further than Dennis Richey's site.
Proceed to tune your engine from rich to lean.
Try to pinch the fuel line going into the carb as close as possible. Your engine should not die immediately. If it does, then too lean. If it takes a long time to die, then you're too rich.
When the engine is cold, can you turn the flywheel easily or do you still feel the resistance?
If I need to tune the engine to race, what I do is best to set the LSN to 4 turns out and HSN to 6 turns out. I do this on most engines. Idle screw is set such that the slide carb is having about 1 mm hole opening when closed. You need to keep throttling to keep the engine running. Set the LSN to lean it till the engine idle RPM goes up a little and then back out a little till the idle remains constant. That should be the ball park LSN setting. Now tune the HSN till you get the engine revving to the highest RPM very easily. Then back out / richen the HSN a little. Test it on track to fine tune.
If the idle is dropping, lean the LSN a little bit more. Hope that helps.
Hey thanks for the info D but i think i have my worst fears confirmed after removing the head the top of the piston is very black and rough the bottom of the glow plug the filament seems to have melted to the bottom of the plug! is this a dead engine?
#8399
Originally posted by Voodo_Magic
Hey thanks for the info D but i think i have my worst fears confirmed after removing the head the top of the piston is very black and rough the bottom of the glow plug the filament seems to have melted to the bottom of the plug! is this a dead engine?
Hey thanks for the info D but i think i have my worst fears confirmed after removing the head the top of the piston is very black and rough the bottom of the glow plug the filament seems to have melted to the bottom of the plug! is this a dead engine?
#8400
Originally posted by Voodo_Magic
Hey D what glow plug are you using in your mova max? I am using a nova rossi C5TF the weather is warm to cool and we use 16% nitro, it is just that i have tried the clutch mod and the settings and my car is still very slow on accelration, iam now worried that i have damaged the engine and which was caused by using wrong glow plug or running it too lean
Hey D what glow plug are you using in your mova max? I am using a nova rossi C5TF the weather is warm to cool and we use 16% nitro, it is just that i have tried the clutch mod and the settings and my car is still very slow on accelration, iam now worried that i have damaged the engine and which was caused by using wrong glow plug or running it too lean



