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Old 04-04-2004, 10:06 PM   #7636
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Quote:
Originally posted by crashed_1
Mind you guys he's called Lord Sauron now...the Darth thing is kinda passe..
Yeah, Lord Sauron is a little unhappy at the moment but happy at the same time that he has a new shell to show off !
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Old 04-04-2004, 10:06 PM   #7637
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Originally posted by cyba888
Today I ran my car again after I went to default settings and the car ran very well. No traction roll..yes! I was using 37 shores front and rear with no problems as well.
Cool. What did you do to make the car not traction roll?

Quote:
Originally posted by cyba888
I have a question regarding the front sway bars. The sway bar with the ball seems to go out of place byitself sometimes(moves vertically). It doesnt stay as secure as the cup one, any idea?
Did you secure the sway bar with the grub screw that is suppose to secure it?
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Old 04-04-2004, 10:07 PM   #7638
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Originally posted by PSI Racing
Mark, I feel bad for you.
I guess it wasn't your day.
But at least you didn't break anything.
I think last weekend was a bad lunar thing for the snake !

On the first tank, just about the second corner, powering out and I took it wide coming out and slammed the metal fence barrier ! Checked the car. The upper bumper brace buckled a little in the middle where the impact occured. The lower bumper was intact. The front edge of the chassis had a groove in the middle (coincided with the hole on the front of the Loletta shell) as a result of hitting the sharp edge of the metal fence pole. Only the left shock popped out of the ball located on the lower arm. Other parts did not break. Then I noticed also that the tank also cracked. But the worst thing was the chassis bent slightly in the front and worst part also in the middle ! I guess that was one of the reasons why the tank cracked.

So now after fixing everything, my baby has a new chassis... But on Sunday, did not get to test it out because of rain !
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Old 04-04-2004, 10:07 PM   #7639
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Quote:
Originally posted by KevinS
I think you missed that Serpent has updated the DRS arm too. It's now longer so the pivotball threads in deeper.
Are they already available? I think the lower rear arms also would be made longer.
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Old 04-04-2004, 10:08 PM   #7640
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Originally posted by KevinS
Keeping the 705? I am... I can't part with it! Recently adapted it for use with the GTP body and got a RS12S5 for it with Nova 52605 turbo pipe. So it's now my "outlaw" car. Just cant seem to get the weight lower than 1776g... Got the 710 down to 1711g! Will post pics as soon as I can borrow a digital camera.
Cool. I have two of them !

Well, look at Julius' tips on how to get the 705 to weight down lower. I think in the Euros last year in Portugal, he managed to make that car underweight !
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Old 04-04-2004, 10:09 PM   #7641
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Default Re: Re: New Colours

Quote:
Originally posted by cox049
And cool G3/G4 PB's background
That was on purpose !
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Old 04-04-2004, 10:13 PM   #7642
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Default Re: few questions

Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
.........Today at racing i was running on a hi tracktion track but my rear end was sliding all over. I was running red in the rear with 3 holes , yellow in the fron with 4 holes, 40wt oil all around.
.........
I don't know about your other quesiton, but I see something is not right here......S710 trying to do something not too many mfr did before....RUNNING the same setting at all 4 corners including shock, springs, oil and tires............and still have a good easy handling car...

Your setting....YELLOW front and RED rear...that is = lots of steering and very little traction at rear....then, 4 holes in front and 3 holes in rear. that is = fast shock travel on front and slow travel at rear...that is almost mean less traction at rear...

Beside the oil and tires you use....both of the above setting are giving you OVERSTEERING...and your tail is spinning is aboolutely a given.

Try to the opposite, or do this....yellow all around, 40 oils with 2 holes on front and 30 oil and 4 holes at rear....all shock position are stock setting, and use all 40 shore tire first, if still spinning at rear...use 37.

Do one thing at a time.
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Old 04-04-2004, 10:18 PM   #7643
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Default Re: few questions

Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
Am I correct to say the following?


1) tigther rear diff, less grip on rear

2) looser rear diff more grip.

3) more caster results in a little less steering? (at which point?)

4) more caster more steering on power at corner exit and mid corner. also more stable down the straight way.

I am trying to make sure i understand correclty the 710 book.

Today at racing i was running on a hi tracktion track but my rear end was sliding all over. I was running red in the rear with 3 holes , yellow in the fron with 4 holes, 40wt oil all around.

i had the front anti roll bar at 45deg in the front.

tyres where 40 all around.

ride height 5mm all around

and the roll centers where stock.

caster, 2mm spacer in the back. (a litte more caster I had the 1 + 4mm in the front)



what could my problem be?
I though of chancing to red all around or yellow all around?

where do you being in with a problem like this?

Buddy, I don't know how many RC miles you have, I'm sure it's more than me, but anyways since I see you are a little confused about the multiple possible settings of the 710 I want to recommend starting out as basic and simple as possible, with yellow springs and soft settings all over, and start growing slowly from there.

I tried some of the settings given by the pros and experienced guys, and they definitely DON'T work for me. So I went back to the genesis of the car, softened everything, slowed down a little bit on the track, and by magic I started to feel the car better and enjoy it a lot more.

I'm sorry if my experience does not apply to you but it worked great for me. I'll soup up the car in the measure that I grow on it and feel that I'm better than my actual setup.

Cheers
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Old 04-04-2004, 10:18 PM   #7644
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Default Re: few questions

Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
1) tigther rear diff, less grip on rear

2) looser rear diff more grip.

3) more caster results in a little less steering? (at which point?)

4) more caster more steering on power at corner exit and mid corner. also more stable down the straight way.
Julius mentioned that caster and rear diff go hand in hand when you run a oneway front. Tighter rear diff will give more on and off power steering when you have more caster (clips in front of front upper arm). This provided that you have stiff front shocks and sway bars.

Generally, with a soft rear diff setting, less caster more off power turn in and more caster more on power steering. More caster is also more stable on the straights and makes the car less twitchy.

Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
Today at racing i was running on a hi tracktion track but my rear end was sliding all over. I was running red in the rear with 3 holes , yellow in the fron with 4 holes, 40wt oil all around.
What are you trying to achieve putting softer front shocks than rear?
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Old 04-04-2004, 10:19 PM   #7645
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Default

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I think last weekend was a bad lunar thing for the snake !

On the first tank, just about the second corner, powering out and I took it wide coming out and slammed the metal fence barrier ! Checked the car. The upper bumper brace buckled a little in the middle where the impact occured. The lower bumper was intact. The front edge of the chassis had a groove in the middle (coincided with the hole on the front of the Loletta shell) as a result of hitting the sharp edge of the metal fence pole. Only the left shock popped out of the ball located on the lower arm. Other parts did not break. Then I noticed also that the tank also cracked. But the worst thing was the chassis bent slightly in the front and worst part also in the middle ! I guess that was one of the reasons why the tank cracked.

So now after fixing everything, my baby has a new chassis... But on Sunday, did not get to test it out because of rain !
Man....tank cracked, chasis bent...thats awful D!! Lucky u have some extra $$$ to buy new chasis...geez...i think i better not go on track this weekend also....too many bad thing happen to snake drivers!
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Old 04-04-2004, 10:34 PM   #7646
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Default Re: New Colours

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Eventually got my camera back from my mate - here's a pic of my new body shell with colours heavily borowed from Cox.

Cheers, Mark.
Mark, you owe me some of those besten Nuremberg Lebkuchen that you enjoy at home

Here is a pic of my "mechanical orange" ( the colors now borrowed from you) My bodies are more battle type ( they don't last very long ) But the serpent spirit is very present!
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Old 04-04-2004, 10:48 PM   #7647
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Quote:
Buddy, I don't know how many RC miles you have, I'm sure it's more than me, but anyways since I see you are a little confused about the multiple possible settings of the 710 I want to recommend starting out as basic and simple as possible, with yellow springs and soft settings all over, and start growing slowly from there.

I tried some of the settings given by the pros and experienced guys, and they definitely DON'T work for me. So I went back to the genesis of the car, softened everything, slowed down a little bit on the track, and by magic I started to feel the car better and enjoy it a lot more.

I'm sorry if my experience does not apply to you but it worked great for me. I'll soup up the car in the measure that I grow on it and feel that I'm better than my actual setup.

Cheers
absolutely, your advise is great and is the best thing to do once you loose a grip on what is going on.. in my case hehe.

thanks
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Old 04-04-2004, 10:50 PM   #7648
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Quote:
What are you trying to achieve putting softer front shocks than rear?
get into the A main, lol

jk. ... i want to get more steering out of the turn and less puch in mid corner
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Old 04-04-2004, 10:57 PM   #7649
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Quote:
Originally posted by jfc_tech
Man....tank cracked, chasis bent...thats awful D!! Lucky u have some extra $$$ to buy new chasis...geez...i think i better not go on track this weekend also....too many bad thing happen to snake drivers!
It was a slight bend but I would think it's very difficult to lnock it back since it's 4 mm. Tried on the 3 mm before and it was already very difficult.
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Old 04-04-2004, 10:58 PM   #7650
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Default Re: Radio Tray On/Off Switch

Quote:
Originally posted by JABRONI
I finally got a good photo of where I mounted my
Hi-Tec On/Off Switch.
Jabroni that RX setup looks good, but also looks very vulnerable to side impacts. In your case with possible CF bits braking

I have a camparable vulnearable setup in my car so I 'velcroed' a foam (pretty dense) to the inner side of the body covering the RX area to protect some in case of lateral impact.

I'll post pic tomorrow
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