Serpent 710
#7217
Originally posted by Marcos.S710
Guys wish me luck i have a race at Lakeland Florida this weekend hope my serpent does very well i did some changes on it that InitialD recommended so we will see , there alot of mugens at that track , so i hope that serpent comes out on top again!!
Guys wish me luck i have a race at Lakeland Florida this weekend hope my serpent does very well i did some changes on it that InitialD recommended so we will see , there alot of mugens at that track , so i hope that serpent comes out on top again!!
#7219
Originally posted by GlennCauley
Hi guys!
InitialD, thanks for the compliment about my recent article!
That is good praise coming from you.
I wrote it mostly because of the discussions that were going on here on this topic. I have been in contact with Julius Kolff to see how I can improve the article by listing the effects of too large or too small clutch gap and endplay.
Like InitialD said, the 0.7mm clutch gap is NOT a hard-n-fast rule, but depending on what the settings it, it will make the clutch engage harder, then make you faster!
This gap value has been around for a while, since the original Centax clutch. At that time, they said a gap value of 0.65~0.75 was okay.
Figure it this way...
Larger clutch gap:
The shoe has to travel further before it engages the clutch housing. To move the shoe further, that means the engine has to rev higher so the centrifugal shoes expand out far enough to push the shoe that little extra bit. THAT means that when the shoe hits the housing it is spinning faster, and will hit harder giving a more sudden engagement.
However, this may take its toll on more strain put on other components, such as the thrustbearing.
Smaller clutch gap:
The shoe has to travel less far before it engages the clutch housing. To move the shoe less far, that means the engine has to rev not as high for the centrifugal shoes to expand out far enough to push the shoe that much less. THAT means that when the shoe hits the housing it is spinning slower, and will hit softer giving a smoother engagement.
However, with too small a clutch gap, the shoe may engage too soon and at not high enough speed, resulting in engine bogging. It might wear out the shoe prematurely.
Glenn Cauley
Ottawa, Canada
Hi guys!
InitialD, thanks for the compliment about my recent article!
That is good praise coming from you.
I wrote it mostly because of the discussions that were going on here on this topic. I have been in contact with Julius Kolff to see how I can improve the article by listing the effects of too large or too small clutch gap and endplay.
Like InitialD said, the 0.7mm clutch gap is NOT a hard-n-fast rule, but depending on what the settings it, it will make the clutch engage harder, then make you faster!
This gap value has been around for a while, since the original Centax clutch. At that time, they said a gap value of 0.65~0.75 was okay.Figure it this way...
Larger clutch gap:
The shoe has to travel further before it engages the clutch housing. To move the shoe further, that means the engine has to rev higher so the centrifugal shoes expand out far enough to push the shoe that little extra bit. THAT means that when the shoe hits the housing it is spinning faster, and will hit harder giving a more sudden engagement.
However, this may take its toll on more strain put on other components, such as the thrustbearing.
Smaller clutch gap:
The shoe has to travel less far before it engages the clutch housing. To move the shoe less far, that means the engine has to rev not as high for the centrifugal shoes to expand out far enough to push the shoe that much less. THAT means that when the shoe hits the housing it is spinning slower, and will hit softer giving a smoother engagement.
However, with too small a clutch gap, the shoe may engage too soon and at not high enough speed, resulting in engine bogging. It might wear out the shoe prematurely.
Glenn Cauley
Ottawa, Canada
The harder the spring, the smaller the gap required for a given engagement at a given rpm (which generates the centrifugal forces for the fly-weights).
Cheers
#7220
Originally posted by Marcos.S710
i'll do my best!!
i'll do my best!!
I suck
#7221
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 315
From: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Originally posted by Marcos.S710
Hi Glenn i read many of your articles on mytsn, but i was wondering what do you think of the novamega Tuned Pipe M12 TP04 ? Thanks in advance
Hi Glenn i read many of your articles on mytsn, but i was wondering what do you think of the novamega Tuned Pipe M12 TP04 ? Thanks in advance
Hi Marcos
I have no personal experience with the TP04 pipe unfortunately.
I usually use a 1-piece "karting" pipe like the TP06 tuned pipe set (#2170).
It seems this pipe has been around for a while (release date in early 2002). I looked for TP04 information on myTSN, and found it at: http://www.mytsn.com/products/desc.asp?prid=2338
They say:
"This new TP04 version has been specially designed for the high-end .12 engines. As .12 engines become more and more powerful, new pipes continuously need to be designed to optimise gas flow and make full use of all that power available. The new .12 TP04 pipes are exactly what you need to optimise your high-end .12-engine performance."
A lot of marketing-speak, but doesn't say if this pipe is good for bottom-end, mid-range, or top-end.
While I hate to pass the buck, I would recommend contact someone at Serpent (Julius Kolff maybe) to find out the characteristics of this pipe.
Glenn Cauley
Ottawa, Canada
#7222
Originally posted by GlennCauley
Hi Marcos
I have no personal experience with the TP04 pipe unfortunately.
I usually use a 1-piece "karting" pipe like the TP06 tuned pipe set (#2170).
It seems this pipe has been around for a while (release date in early 2002). I looked for TP04 information on myTSN, and found it at: http://www.mytsn.com/products/desc.asp?prid=2338
They say:
"This new TP04 version has been specially designed for the high-end .12 engines. As .12 engines become more and more powerful, new pipes continuously need to be designed to optimise gas flow and make full use of all that power available. The new .12 TP04 pipes are exactly what you need to optimise your high-end .12-engine performance."
A lot of marketing-speak, but doesn't say if this pipe is good for bottom-end, mid-range, or top-end.
While I hate to pass the buck, I would recommend contact someone at Serpent (Julius Kolff maybe) to find out the characteristics of this pipe.
Glenn Cauley
Ottawa, Canada
Hi Marcos
I have no personal experience with the TP04 pipe unfortunately.
I usually use a 1-piece "karting" pipe like the TP06 tuned pipe set (#2170).
It seems this pipe has been around for a while (release date in early 2002). I looked for TP04 information on myTSN, and found it at: http://www.mytsn.com/products/desc.asp?prid=2338
They say:
"This new TP04 version has been specially designed for the high-end .12 engines. As .12 engines become more and more powerful, new pipes continuously need to be designed to optimise gas flow and make full use of all that power available. The new .12 TP04 pipes are exactly what you need to optimise your high-end .12-engine performance."
A lot of marketing-speak, but doesn't say if this pipe is good for bottom-end, mid-range, or top-end.
While I hate to pass the buck, I would recommend contact someone at Serpent (Julius Kolff maybe) to find out the characteristics of this pipe.
Glenn Cauley
Ottawa, Canada
#7223
Originally posted by GlennCauley
Hi Marcos
I have no personal experience with the TP04 pipe unfortunately.
I usually use a 1-piece "karting" pipe like the TP06 tuned pipe set (#2170).
It seems this pipe has been around for a while (release date in early 2002). I looked for TP04 information on myTSN, and found it at: http://www.mytsn.com/products/desc.asp?prid=2338
They say:
"This new TP04 version has been specially designed for the high-end .12 engines. As .12 engines become more and more powerful, new pipes continuously need to be designed to optimise gas flow and make full use of all that power available. The new .12 TP04 pipes are exactly what you need to optimise your high-end .12-engine performance."
A lot of marketing-speak, but doesn't say if this pipe is good for bottom-end, mid-range, or top-end.
While I hate to pass the buck, I would recommend contact someone at Serpent (Julius Kolff maybe) to find out the characteristics of this pipe.
Glenn Cauley
Ottawa, Canada
Hi Marcos
I have no personal experience with the TP04 pipe unfortunately.
I usually use a 1-piece "karting" pipe like the TP06 tuned pipe set (#2170).
It seems this pipe has been around for a while (release date in early 2002). I looked for TP04 information on myTSN, and found it at: http://www.mytsn.com/products/desc.asp?prid=2338
They say:
"This new TP04 version has been specially designed for the high-end .12 engines. As .12 engines become more and more powerful, new pipes continuously need to be designed to optimise gas flow and make full use of all that power available. The new .12 TP04 pipes are exactly what you need to optimise your high-end .12-engine performance."
A lot of marketing-speak, but doesn't say if this pipe is good for bottom-end, mid-range, or top-end.
While I hate to pass the buck, I would recommend contact someone at Serpent (Julius Kolff maybe) to find out the characteristics of this pipe.
Glenn Cauley
Ottawa, Canada
#7224
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 315
From: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Originally posted by BaxterC
WOW, spoken as a true pro!!! Well done Gleann, I must admit, I take your article like gopel and you know what you are talking about. I am sure we all do think so. Thank you for the update.
WOW, spoken as a true pro!!! Well done Gleann, I must admit, I take your article like gopel and you know what you are talking about. I am sure we all do think so. Thank you for the update.
I don't know about the "gospel" part...
I just like trying to tell about things that I have learned and have done, to save people some headaches in trying to figure it out themselves from scratch.
There are a lot of smart people out there that have figured out pretty cool ways of doing things. A lot of them are here on the RCtech.net site...
Cheers!
Glenn Cauley
Ottawa, Canada
#7225
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 315
From: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Originally posted by BaxterC
looking at this pipe, I would say this pipe would be for bottom to mid range, I could be wrong, as it is a picture, but this is what I would say looking at the angle of the divergent and the lengthof the belly.
looking at this pipe, I would say this pipe would be for bottom to mid range, I could be wrong, as it is a picture, but this is what I would say looking at the angle of the divergent and the lengthof the belly.
I think you would be right on this one.
Usually "fatter" pipes with a short divergent section are good for lower RPM, and "skinny" pipes with long divergent section are good for higher RPM.
Take a look at the pipes use for nitro boats. Usually they are very long and have a mild taper. These boats are designed to run at top RPM mostly all the time.
Glenn Cauley
Ottawa, Canada
#7226
Originally posted by GlennCauley
Thanks for the kind words, BaxterC.
I don't know about the "gospel" part...
I just like trying to tell about things that I have learned and have done, to save people some headaches in trying to figure it out themselves from scratch.
There are a lot of smart people out there that have figured out pretty cool ways of doing things. A lot of them are here on the RCtech.net site...
Cheers!
Glenn Cauley
Ottawa, Canada
Thanks for the kind words, BaxterC.
I don't know about the "gospel" part...
I just like trying to tell about things that I have learned and have done, to save people some headaches in trying to figure it out themselves from scratch.
There are a lot of smart people out there that have figured out pretty cool ways of doing things. A lot of them are here on the RCtech.net site...
Cheers!
Glenn Cauley
Ottawa, Canada
#7227
Originally posted by BaxterC
Glenn, You are a true serpent person. I have all your articles about the 710 printed for when I build my car when it arrives. I know about all the great people, they are all in this thread. And YOU being one of them, thank you.
Glenn, You are a true serpent person. I have all your articles about the 710 printed for when I build my car when it arrives. I know about all the great people, they are all in this thread. And YOU being one of them, thank you.
#7228
Originally posted by GlennCauley
I think you would be right on this one.
Usually "fatter" pipes with a short divergent section are good for lower RPM, and "skinny" pipes with long divergent section are good for higher RPM.
Take a look at the pipes use for nitro boats. Usually they are very long and have a mild taper. These boats are designed to run at top RPM mostly all the time.
Glenn Cauley
Ottawa, Canada
I think you would be right on this one.
Usually "fatter" pipes with a short divergent section are good for lower RPM, and "skinny" pipes with long divergent section are good for higher RPM.
Take a look at the pipes use for nitro boats. Usually they are very long and have a mild taper. These boats are designed to run at top RPM mostly all the time.
Glenn Cauley
Ottawa, Canada
#7229
Originally posted by BaxterC
Exactly... you can to a certain extent also tune the pipe more to your motor with the length of the header\manifold, but not on the pipes we use right Glenn, which pipe do you use, I have ordered a novarossi in-line that is ROAR legal, not the 6mm
Exactly... you can to a certain extent also tune the pipe more to your motor with the length of the header\manifold, but not on the pipes we use right Glenn, which pipe do you use, I have ordered a novarossi in-line that is ROAR legal, not the 6mm
#7230
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 315
From: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Originally posted by BaxterC
Exactly... you can to a certain extent also tune the pipe more to your motor with the length of the header\manifold, but not on the pipes we use right Glenn, which pipe do you use, I have ordered a novarossi in-line that is ROAR legal, not the 6mm
Exactly... you can to a certain extent also tune the pipe more to your motor with the length of the header\manifold, but not on the pipes we use right Glenn, which pipe do you use, I have ordered a novarossi in-line that is ROAR legal, not the 6mm
What I really like about the 1-piece pipe sets is that they are very tough and can take more abuse (i.e, side collisions) than 2-piece pipes held together by a coupler. What I don't like about the 1-piece pipes is that you are stuck with the pipe length they set.
How I wish someone would design a 1-piece pipe where you can adjust the pipe length...
With 2-piece pipes you can adjust overall pipe length to tune your engine better. But the tradeoff is that the pipe length can change if you hit the pipe, or the pipe can come apart.
I use 1-piece EFRA/ROAR pipesets on both my S710 and S835 cars.
On my S710 I am trying the #2170 pipeset (TP06) this season (I used a Dynamite 1-piece pipe on my Impulse Pro 2 years ago).
On my S835 I use the #2690 pipeset.
We run on a smaller, more technical track (parking lot).
Cheers!
Glenn Cauley
Ottawa, Canada



