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Old 03-31-2004, 04:18 PM   #7366
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Default Re: Radio Tray Work

Quote:
Originally posted by JABRONI
Jabroni, looks tidy ... well done.

Can you post a picture of the car from underneath? This way we can see the wiring routing you did.

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Old 03-31-2004, 04:34 PM   #7367
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Default Calling MarkP and InitialD!

These two guys and everyone else here will love my new toy!

Check out the racing section at RC Reviews!

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Old 03-31-2004, 04:53 PM   #7368
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Quote:
to have a smoother power-band
what does that exactly mean? powerband
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Old 03-31-2004, 05:21 PM   #7369
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Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
what does that exactly mean? powerband
Its the way the engine delivers its power all along its rpm range

By smooth PB I understand progressive... Some engines are pigs at low RPM's and get explosive power in the uppers... Some are mad at low and die out in the high end

In the case of having big clutchbell clearence the power will come in a harsh way due to engaging at rather high rpm's where the engine has more power
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Old 03-31-2004, 05:27 PM   #7370
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Default Thread fix for plastic ?

After taking out the rear diff about 5 times I "wore through" the threads of the rear Bearing holders (plastic part that goes fixed to chassis)... I put some red loctite and it seems it will hold ok for this last time

Do you guys have a fix for these worn threads? or you just change the part?
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Old 03-31-2004, 05:56 PM   #7371
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Default No Splices Allowed

Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
i the receiver pocket larger ?? can you post more pics of that area?

I have also shortened my servo wires, so its very clean and organized.


Also,

can someone tell me what if the benefit of using a limited in the carb? i have attached a pic if my engine and hopefuly you can see my new end bell for the clutch.
Profoxcg/SowNSteady

Microswitch installed on backside of the cover.
Just take the one screw out of the front pull outwards and you
can easily change your crystal with the shortened wires still at the end that does not rotate out.

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Old 03-31-2004, 06:11 PM   #7372
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Default Re: Radio Tray Work

Quote:
Originally posted by JABRONI
Finished clipping all the fat off of the servo's etc... and Finally got my radio tray finished.
Put new ends on the wires and transferred the wires on the battery pack over to the r/h side of the car.

Less clutter all the way around , and in addition to the wire shortening I added some extenders to the radio tray with rubber grommets in the holes to dampen any vibes or impacts that may occur.

Is that soldering gun using butane? I have one of those but never really used it, does it work better than the electric ones?
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Old 03-31-2004, 06:22 PM   #7373
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Default Soldering Gun

Negative Cyba, it's a Hakko 936.

Pretty good output.

I think alot of Electric Racers use something like it.
I put a quarter inch tip on it so that it takes less time to
solder battery ends.

Smaller tip of course for smaller parts.

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Old 03-31-2004, 07:09 PM   #7374
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Default Re: Calling MarkP and InitialD!

Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Check out the racing section at RC Reviews!
Oh yes ! With all the work datelines to rush and racing last weekend, did not manage to check it out. Will do.
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Old 03-31-2004, 07:11 PM   #7375
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Default Re: Thread fix for plastic ?

Quote:
Originally posted by cox049
Do you guys have a fix for these worn threads? or you just change the part?
I have heard of people putting a little CA glue and let it harden before screwing into the plastic. Or you could use longer screws if that's possible.
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Old 03-31-2004, 07:12 PM   #7376
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
1) extend my run time. When racing on long flowing tracks with a 5 port turbo engine, I sometimes find that I run out of fuel at just under 5 minutes. Its not enough to complete the heats! A carb restrictor, while reducing overall power slightly, will definitely help in this situation.

2) to have a smoother power-band. Again, depending on the track and your throttle finger style, you may find that on tight technical parts of certain tracks that you're overshooting despite just only touching the throttle. A carb restrictor can also help here.


Hey Uncle Sow, have you done any racing there yet?
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Old 03-31-2004, 07:13 PM   #7377
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Quote:
Originally posted by cyba888
10-11 months...I hope its because of the 705 problems that people are talking about. If the 710 proves to be a great car all around then it should stay around for some time.
The 705 was an interim upgrade to the Impulse PRO whilst trying to get the 710 out on time as the World Championships was zooming close in Portugal last year. You will notice that some of the newer 705 parts shares some with the 710... (tank, receiver pack mount etc).
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Old 03-31-2004, 07:18 PM   #7378
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Default Re: Radio Tray Work

Quote:
Originally posted by JABRONI
Woow ! That's a jaw dropping beauty !

If I translates that to metric, that would be 1621.592723 grams. Is that correct? A bodyshell and a PT would make it close to legal.
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Old 03-31-2004, 08:49 PM   #7379
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD


Hey Uncle Sow, have you done any racing there yet?
Heh ... did a couple of times lah. Only the indoor one. It was tough but fun.

I need to gear down my 710 because the track is technical and the concrete surface is smooth and minimal grip!

Gonna race the outdoor track this Sunday ... if its dry and sunny.
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Old 03-31-2004, 08:52 PM   #7380
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Default Re: No Splices Allowed

Quote:
Originally posted by JABRONI
Profoxcg/SowNSteady

Microswitch installed on backside of the cover.
Just take the one screw out of the front pull outwards and you
can easily change your crystal with the shortened wires still at the end that does not rotate out. ......
Jabroni, this is excellent work!

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