Has anyone played with the Nissan Altima body, is there a 200mm body thread? I will look, if not, I create one....

Don't get all those fancy option scare you........all servos are programmable, not just digiital, and I know my 3PK can do so many setting (most of them I don't even know what they are) but it is all about your RADIO, not the servo itself.

I always use the same brand servo matching the radio....for digital, use S9451...very good speed and torque.
If you want something lighter, I knew someone used the S9550 for both throttle and steering....they are like 25gram lighter then standard servo (cause they are shorter) but 83 oz/in @ 6V torque spec, I am not sure it is strong enough for steering......S9451 run .10 Sec/60 Degrees @ 6V and 121 oz/in @ 6V spec.

Hi Guys,

What rear end width are you all running? With my still suspensionless 710, if I set my rear width to 199m or more, then the DRS arm starts to catch the centax gear - I suppose this won't happen once I get my shocks on. Anyone had any problems here?

I saw a post on the mytsn 710 forums about this and I thought it would be the rear width, as when I built my car the suspension wouldn't move, as I had the rear far too narrow. Only once I turned the pivot-balls out a bit would the suspension move up; the more I turn them out, the more upward movement in the rear suspension.

Cheers, Mark.

There has been some talk about the rear pivot balls coming out, as they are a little too short and that it would be better to use the older, longer steel pivot balls until serpent comes out with some newer ones.

Well, why not screw the pivot balls in further and then use wheel spacers to correct the width back to 200mm? Is there something I've missed here?

Cheers, Mark.

If you push the car down with your hand it slightly touches the DRS arm, but don't worry this won't happen when you'r driving.....

Actually just checked my track width setting for left and right and they weren't equal now I've set left and right to 100mm no rubbing even without the shocks on

Well, as you've stated yourself, if the trackwidth is too narrow you'll limit the suspension travel (less upward travel due to the driveshafts bottoming out). So you'll need to set it as close to 200mm as possible.

Personally I haven't stripped a ball yet, but I race on grass infield tracks not boards.

Julius

That'd be nice - our track has a nice, tricky left-right kink which is taken (with the right engine) at full speed (about 90 kmh if I remember right) and no run-off!
Last year my 705's throttle stuck on at this point! That cost me a few new parts!

Thanks for the info, Julius.

Me either. However, radiotray, rear tower, brake plate, front upper and lower bumper have all broken and I have pulled a pivot ball from the hub, not the arm. Damn you Picard... dandy's boards are a biatch.

Picard, I have also done some very silly things when making adjustments... try running a front and a rear spring on the front shocks, and your rear shocks in different upper holes. oh, I have ordered the white springs... (and a diff for the front)

Does anyone know anyplace that has the novamega 2106 motor in stock?

Have you tried Atomic Hobbies out of Miami???

www.atomichobbies.com

Speak to Anthony or Phill (owners), great prices and service, Tell them the Peruvian guys send you.

AFM

Raced the car twice now and the only problem I'm having with the car is upper and lower bumper plates cracking/breaking. Hitting the walls/boards full tilt will prolly do this!

Haven't had a problem with the piviot balls.............

ery nice car !!!

Hey mate

Yeah, dandys boards are just that, but I like the idea of you make a mistake you pay the price. Having said that it is tough on guys running for the first time at the track. I went down yesterday and sorted all my problems, (mainly rear Toe in), car was flying. I though you were going to try the solid diff first mate?

That didn't take long to order the front diff, interesting to see how it goes at dandy, I think i will prefer the solid, but only time will tell

The 710 is not a buggy ! So a fast servo with a decent torque of about 8 kg is enough.

That said, yes it is true that digital servos draw more current due to the constant feedback for more accurate position. Holding power and accuracy is better with digital servos but the newer analog ones are also good.

For throttle, you may want to get more torque depending on your driving style or track layout which probably needs a lot of late braking. Also for throttle / brake, because of the type of load, most opt for analog.

Therefore a lot of people strike a balance by putting digital servo on the steering and analog servo for throttle / brake. This would also give a balance in terms of receiver pack current draw.

I would use KO-2343 / KO-2143 / Futaba S9451 digital servo for steering and KO-2344 / KO-2144 / Sanwa VB analog servos for throttle / brake.

I'm assuming that you're using the older KO Propo Tx/Rx (not the Helios) which does not have the option to run HRS mode. If you have this, then you may have to go with full digital servos for steering and throttle / brake.

Else like Julius or some team drivers in Holland use good analog Sanwa servos. That would give you the best runtime.

Just my 2 cents.