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Old 03-08-2004, 12:47 AM
  #5491  
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Now see them drive!

Originally posted by crashed_1
Now YOU are freaking me out too...

We had a German compositor who used to freelance with us and he had shitloads of german pop and techno music (50Gbs). I managed to find one of my good ol' classic Tour de France in it...

IE icon??!!!...Poof!

Yeah, I think InitialD has converted me to the dark side!

I don't go too much for German pop and techno - bit boring I find, but Kraftwerk rock!
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Old 03-08-2004, 12:53 AM
  #5492  
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Now see them drive!

Originally posted by crashed_1
Now YOU are freaking me out too...
Mark learns the dark ways fast !
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Old 03-08-2004, 12:58 AM
  #5493  
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Now see them drive!

Originally posted by InitialD
Mark learns the dark ways fast !
Thank you my Master!
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Old 03-08-2004, 01:25 AM
  #5494  
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Default Setup Update

Originally posted by InitialD
I have not run a front diff yet on the 710. I am currently running with a front solid axle setup. But this is what I arrived at and I was pretty happy with it on a large and a small track as well;

************************************

Suspension geometry Front:
Downstops: 1mm
Set-up ride height: 6mm (Actual ride height !)
Camber Left: -2.0 degree
Camber Right: -2.0 degree
Track-width: 199mm
Toe-in: -1.0 degree (Toe-out)
Caster setting (mm in front): 1mm
Roll-center position upper arm (mm): 4mm under
Upstop (mm): None

Suspension geometry Rear:
Downstops: 8mm
Set-up ride height: 7mm (Actual ride height !)
Camber Left: -3.5 degree
Camber Right: -3.0 degree
Toe-in: +2.0 degree
Track-width: 197mm
Roll-center position upper: outer (UBO)
Roll-center position lower: low (LB)
DRS arm position (low-mid-up): Up

Shockabsorbers Front:
Springs: yellow
Oil: 30W
Holes: 5
Cilinder type: composite
Shock-tower position: 3rd hole

Shockabsorbers Rear:
Springs: yellow
Oil: 30W
Holes: 4
Cilinder type: composite
Shock-tower position: 1st hole
Lower shock position: outside

Anti-roll bar front:
Thickness: -
Position: No Anti Roll Bar installed

Anti-roll bar rear:
Thickness: standard
Position: 3 mm from the end of bar
Position on lower arm: outside

Tires Front:
Make: Ellegi 6 spoke (Serpent)
Hardness Left: 35 shore
Hardness Right: 35 shore
Diameter: 64mm
Wear in 5 min. Left:
Wear in 5 min. Right:

Tires Rear:
Make: SpeedMind Dishwheels
Hardness Left: 37 shore
Hardness Right: 37 shore
Diameter: 64mm
Wear in 5 min. Left:
Wear in 5 min. Right:

Transmission:
Pinion 1st: 16T
Pinion 2nd: 21T
Gear 1st: 61T
Gear 2nd: 57T

Front axle:
Type: Locked to solid axle
Diff. setting: Locked to solid axle

Rear axle:
Type: adjustable diff
Diff. setting: light (when hot)

Aerodynamics:
Body: Protoform Stratus 2.1
Wing: Standard
Gurney strip: -

Engine and pipe:
Engine: NovaMax 5 port
Version: P5
Head shims: 0.4mm
Glowplug: 6TF
Pipe: Team Magic (7 mm inline)
Header: Thunder Tiger (long manifold)
Length: Approx 108 mm
Fuel: 25% Tornado

************************************

I used 37 shore front and 40 shore rear and the car behaved about the same too.
Updated setup for last weekend below. Ran very nice and consistant. Works great on small tracks too.

************************************

Suspension geometry Front:
Downstops: 1mm
Set-up ride height: 6mm (Actual ride height !)
Camber Left: -1.5 degree
Camber Right: -1.5 degree
Track-width: 199mm
Toe-in: -2.0 degree (Toe-out)
Caster setting (mm in front): 1mm
Roll-center position upper arm (mm): 4mm under
Upstop (mm): None

Suspension geometry Rear:
Downstops: 8mm
Set-up ride height: 7mm (Actual ride height !)
Camber Left: -3.5 degree
Camber Right: -3.0 degree
Toe-in: +2.0 degree
Track-width: 197mm
Roll-center position upper: outer (UBO)
Roll-center position lower: low (LB)
DRS arm position (low-mid-up): Up

Shockabsorbers Front:
Springs: yellow
Oil: 30W
Holes: 5
Cilinder type: composite
Shock-tower position: 2nd hole

Shockabsorbers Rear:
Springs: yellow
Oil: 30W
Holes: 4
Cilinder type: composite
Shock-tower position: 2nd hole
Lower shock position: outside

Anti-roll bar front:
Thickness: -
Position: No Anti Roll Bar installed

Anti-roll bar rear:
Thickness: standard
Position: 3 mm from the end of bar
Position on lower arm: outside

Tires Front:
Make: Ellegi 6 spoke (Serpent)
Hardness Left: 35 shore
Hardness Right: 35 shore
Diameter: 62mm
Wear in 5 min. Left:
Wear in 5 min. Right:

Tires Rear:
Make: SpeedMind Dishwheels
Hardness Left: 37 shore
Hardness Right: 37 shore
Diameter: 62mm
Wear in 5 min. Left:
Wear in 5 min. Right:

Transmission:
Pinion 1st: 16T
Pinion 2nd: 21T
Gear 1st: 61T
Gear 2nd: 57T

Front axle:
Type: Locked to solid axle
Diff. setting: Locked to solid axle

Rear axle:
Type: adjustable diff
Diff. setting: light (when hot)

Aerodynamics:
Body: Protoform Stratus 2.1
Wing: Standard
Gurney strip: -

Engine and pipe:
Engine: NovaMax 5 port
Version: P5
Head shims: 0.4mm
Glowplug: 6TF
Pipe: RDLogic (7.2 mm inline)
Header: Novarossi (short inline manifold)
Length: Approx 88 mm
Fuel: 25% Tornado

************************************

Changed the pipe and the engine had tremendous RPM that I tend to overshoot in the sweeper and at the end of the straights.

Like I mentioned previously, the setup works well with 37 shore front and 40 shore rear tires.

Hope to get to run front diffs this weekend and see how the car handles.
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Old 03-08-2004, 01:37 AM
  #5495  
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When you mention actual ride height, you mean measured with the wheels on and not on the huddy blocks?
How do you set the droop then?
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Old 03-08-2004, 01:42 AM
  #5496  
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Originally posted by markp27
When you mention actual ride height, you mean measured with the wheels on and not on the huddy blocks?
Yes. Ride height with actual tires.

Originally posted by markp27
How do you set the droop then?
Last time I ran with 64 mm tires. This time with 62 mm, by right I should increase droop by 1 mm (7 rear and 0 front) witht he ride height maintained but as usual I was too lazy !

Anyway, should not make much of a difference though.
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Old 03-08-2004, 01:44 AM
  #5497  
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Originally posted by InitialD
Yes. Ride height with actual tires.



Last time I ran with 64 mm tires. This time with 62 mm, by right I should increase droop by 1 mm (7 rear and 0 front) witht he ride height maintained but as usual I was too lazy !

Anyway, should not make much of a difference though.
So you still use the hudy blocks to set the droop - I know it's a stupid question, but humour me
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Old 03-08-2004, 01:49 AM
  #5498  
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Originally posted by markp27
So you still use the hudy blocks to set the droop - I know it's a stupid question, but humour me
Yes of course. Not blocks made by Hudy but a decent droop gauge and droop measured at the bottom of the knuckle.

No worries and no Jedi tricks to the numbers !
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Old 03-08-2004, 02:06 AM
  #5499  
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Glad to hear!
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Old 03-08-2004, 02:29 AM
  #5500  
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Is that Jango Fett or Boba Fett?
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Old 03-08-2004, 04:06 AM
  #5501  
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Hey guys... just looking for advice, I have been looking for a decent servo, and hove found a couple, some people say I should put in a digital, some say no as it has a higher current draw on the receiver pack. Does anyone have a suggestion, I have a KO Propo receiver and radio, I have standard servos, (Futaba S3003)
I am wondering what you all are using, I want to know, fast for steering, or torque for steering?
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Old 03-08-2004, 04:27 AM
  #5502  
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Hi ID and everyone,

As i mentioned in another thread, and may I say it is good to be home, I ran my serpent yesterday for the first time at a clubbie and I was over a second quicker than i have ever been.
The car felt fantastic and the engine was a powerhouse, very impressed with both. I hade a change to the cars rear toe in and suffered from rear end traction. I realised today after checking the car that I wound one side in the wrong way, so i had -3 on the right side and -1 on the left side idiot.
Sprksy no humour please

I run on a dusty low grip track and the car was great only running the kit setup. ID I noticed you have tried the solid front, I am going to give that a try next.
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Old 03-08-2004, 04:31 AM
  #5503  
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Originally posted by BaxterC
Hey guys... just looking for advice, I have been looking for a decent servo, and hove found a couple, some people say I should put in a digital, some say no as it has a higher current draw on the receiver pack. Does anyone have a suggestion, I have a KO Propo receiver and radio, I have standard servos, (Futaba S3003)
I am wondering what you all are using, I want to know, fast for steering, or torque for steering?
My advice would be that if you have a friend at your track with adigital servo, ask to test it out and see what you think yourself before you spend the money. I use a futaba 3PK with digital servos and I am very happy with them. But what's good for me might not be good for you
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Old 03-08-2004, 05:16 AM
  #5504  
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I run JR8411 and 8417 digitals and love them you just have to make sure you set the end points on them as far as battery draw their really isnt that much of a difference in my opinion.my setup is an Airtronics M8 radio Futaba Fm mini reciever and Jr servos ive used this setup for years and its worked great for me
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Old 03-08-2004, 06:42 AM
  #5505  
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sweet, thanks guys, tell me, the digital servos are programmable, but how does one program a digital servo, I dont neccesarily wan to buy a programmer. Also what would you suggest, fast or torque for steering? Also, anyone seen the MG ZS from protoform in action yet?
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